Jump to content

Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project


Atomic

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sent out an inquiry for the pricing of the intake manifold. More argon gas should arrive by Wednesday. I could assemble the exhaust manifold meanwhile and make the oil pump spacer ready so I can make the tubings ready for the oil cooler and back to the turbo and the oilpan.

Link to comment

Oil pump spacer done:

img_20210712_140344_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210712_150650_by_atomicsickness_de

den6soi-680a82c8-7b6c-4f91-b460-a7fa7ebd

 

It even spins! Turned out alright in my opinion. I have ordered longer dowel pins so I can match the whole stack together when assembling. 

 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment

I got an oil cooler from a Ford 350. When all is said and done I doubt I need it on a stock L20B. The highest the oil temp had gone is 91C. I'm going to loop the hoses together and see how warm it gets without the cooler. I used 6-8 feet of high pressure hose to mount the cooler in front of the rad. The hoses alone will shed heat. 91C is 196F which is probably close to what the rad temp was that day. Takes over half an hour to get up to running temp in the 70s C. That's just above 160F ... too cold for oil.

 

Will you have a thermostat control for the oil cooler?

Have you considered an oil/water cooler? The engine coolant warms the oil quicker to operating temperatures then the rad becomes the cooler. Naturally you will need a larger rad.

Link to comment
1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

I got an oil cooler from a Ford 350. When all is said and done I doubt I need it on a stock L20B. The highest the oil temp had gone is 91C. I'm going to loop the hoses together and see how warm it gets without the cooler. I used 6-8 feet of high pressure hose to mount the cooler in front of the rad. The hoses alone will shed heat. 91C is 196F which is probably close to what the rad temp was that day. Takes over half an hour to get up to running temp in the 70s C. That's just above 160F ... too cold for oil.

 

Will you have a thermostat control for the oil cooler?

Have you considered an oil/water cooler? The engine coolant warms the oil quicker to operating temperatures then the rad becomes the cooler. Naturally you will need a larger rad.

The oil plate split adapter that I have has thermo-switch yes. So once a temperature is reached, the oil starts to circulate through the cooler.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment

The wiring would be the same if internal or external regulators. It depends on the alternator internals and if there is an external regulator mounted under the hood, usually on the right inner fender.

 

In the picture above the two wire plug in the back marked L & S on the alternator is for an internally regulator. An external regulator should be marked F & N.

 

Nissan switched to internally regulated alternators for '78. I don't know if world wide but probably.

Link to comment
16 hours ago, datzenmike said:

The wiring would be the same if internal or external regulators. It depends on the alternator internals and if there is an external regulator mounted under the hood, usually on the right inner fender.

 

In the picture above the two wire plug in the back marked L & S on the alternator is for an internally regulator. An external regulator should be marked F & N.

 

Nissan switched to internally regulated alternators for '78. I don't know if world wide but probably.

Ach. I hope I haven't damaged anything too much. I was running an alternator like the diagram above and I might have damaged the alternator, oopsie.. I need to do the wiring adjustment per wiki site suggests. I still had the external regulator place plug in the wiring harness for the coupe.

Link to comment

I believe that if you replace an external with an internally regulated alternator the only thing that happens is the engine won't shut off with the key.... and it doesn't charge properly.

 

R5IRJ6w.jpg

 

The regulator's plug can be cut off as you won't be needing it and the...

 

White/Black stripe and the White/Red stripe wire joined together

White and Yellow wires joined together. (be sure to solder and use heat shrink tubing)

 

Just plug the modified plug into the harness and done. This will probably cause the electric choke heater relay to be permanently on, although the heater element is off with the key the coil in the relay is on and over a weekend it will drain you battery. What I did was unplug the heater relay. Then join the choke heater (usually a Blue wire) to the Idle cut solenoid. (usually a Red wire) Now the choke heater is powered by the Idle cut solenoid and turns on and off with the ignition.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment

It will have a choke heater and a choke heater relay. Somewhere. All electric chokes have this feature.

 

It's not that the choke heater is on it's that the relay is energized all the time, even with the ignition off and this small drain over a weekend will run the battery down. I believe the 210 is the same way and this should be looked into to avoid a disappointing Monday morning.

Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Finally an update again!

Got the 3D printed intake manifold from the 3D Formtech:

img_20210727_081313_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210727_081417_by_atomicsickness_de

Made custom hex M6 screws:
img_20210727_122607_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210728_095228_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210728_095234_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210728_095244_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210728_095252_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210728_095538_by_atomicsickness_de

 

Still need to think of a logo on the top black cover of the intake manifold. Will probably SLA print it and attach it later there.

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Had to extend the alternator bracket, the VR sensor was getting too close:

img_20210729_162056_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210730_084517_by_atomicsickness_de

Machined the block-off plate for the old distributor hole:

img_20210730_132818_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210730_134611_by_atomicsickness_de

Installed the tomei intake/exhaust gasket:

img_20210730_154103_by_atomicsickness_de

Superb thing with this is that it has separated exhaust ports, the stock gasket has a large hole that combines cylinders 2-3:

img_20210730_154108_by_atomicsickness_de

Turbo + injectors + EGT sensors + plenum + intake manifold + intake pluming all done:

img_20210802_115854_by_atomicsickness_de

img_20210802_115901_by_atomicsickness_de

Installed the gear to the oil-pump too:

img_20210802_153435_by_atomicsickness_de


Not a lot to do for "first" start... Need to make couple more cables for the Hall sensor + fans, buy a new oil filter, make oil tubings for the oil cooler and finish machining the valve cover top cap and put the radiator back in its place. And last but not least, put some oil and water in 😛 non mixed please

 

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment

Tears (almost) and sweat! 

 

I had an emotional rollercoaster with the car. Tried to start the engine, cranks once... Retry, cranks once... Testing with battery voltage, cranking once, voltage drops to 3V...

 

Going to a store early in the morning, waiting 1 hour for it to open. Bought 70Ah/700A battery. Back to home.

 

New battery to its place, eyes on oil pressure gauge. Cranking.... Cranking.... Gauge reads 0... Injector rail fails, fuel all over...

 

Took the modified pump and replaced it with new original pump, fixed the rail... No oil pressure, cranking still without plugs or injectors on... 

 

Took the pump off, primed again... Cranking... Cranking... Oil pressure to 4 bar! 

 

Injectors hooked, laptop hooked, cranking... Engine runs up and down, dialing some cold start values... Engine coming up to temperature, oil pressure dropping below 1 bar...

 

Changed oils as the first one was just to prime stuff up. Oil pressure reads 3-4 bars cold. Engine warming, oil pressure settles to 1 bar with 750-850 RPM idle, stock pump with T intersection to the turbo, no oil cooler hooked up yet.

 

My crankshaft pulley seems to be fucked up tho, its all messed up and twisting and turning, I probably have to design one of my own. But for now, here is some music:

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Thinking about machining something like this:

e2c1cb43_b73a_4383_be5a_95868670f173_by_

56c9d94f_216d_4065_96de_0d0662ffc3b6_by_

 

Pulley from 7075 aluminum and the triggerwheel from AISI 1018 or similar. Weight is going to be aprox. same as it is now with standard pulley and triggerwheel ~ 930 grams 

  • Like 3
Link to comment

Here is an idle video, was topping the coolant off so some excess is dripping still from the cap, so don't mind that.

 

Engine temperature hovers around 87-95 degrees. Oil pressure at 850 RPM with hot oil seems to drop around 7-11 psi. It quickly increases with the rule of thumb of at least 10 psi per 1000 RPM. I'm a little bit concerned if something is still off. Everything was measured and brand spanking new. I wonder if it might be bad oil filter, some oil relief valve stuck open or something else going on with the pump? The pump I'm currently running is brand new from ebay, hmm... I will try with the modified pump tomorrow if I can get readings with that one.

 

In person I can basically hear just the injectors ticking and some noise from the gearbox, but the engine seems to be smooth, thoughts?

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Posted (edited)

No knock at least on higher RPM, but seems like one of my cylinders is not performing as well as the others, fuel pop around 33 seconds. I'll take the sparkplugs off tomorrow and see which cylinder might be the cause. I'm suspecting the bootleg injectors playing tricks on me. So will be probably buying a new flow matched set

 

Edit: sounds like the compressor bypass valve is working as intended based on the air wooshing sounds

Edited by Atomic
  • Like 2
Link to comment

The Tut tut tut tut tut when revving is by the sound of it, a non functioning cylinder. Waiting for the results of the custom oil pump. I think it will be boss!!!

 

Very nice work BTW

Link to comment

Hello friends, I need drawings for the copper head gasket, my atom friend, can you help with this? There is no part of this engine in my country 🙂

Edited by Nevzat
Link to comment

yes, my engine is stock, but I'm thinking of adding a turbo soon.

but even if it stays in stock, there is not even a gasket in the country:( I think there is 1 in the country.

 

i use this engine in a heavy camper vw T2 van so it would be nice if it was more powerful with turbo

Link to comment
On 8/12/2021 at 3:00 AM, Atomic said:

No knock at least on higher RPM, but seems like one of my cylinders is not performing as well as the others, fuel pop around 33 seconds. I'll take the sparkplugs off tomorrow and see which cylinder might be the cause. I'm suspecting the bootleg injectors playing tricks on me. So will be probably buying a new flow matched set

 

Edit: sounds like the compressor bypass valve is working as intended based on the air wooshing sounds

 

It runs! Great work! Sounds to me like it could be missing 2 cylinders actually. Keep at it. Check your ignition and injectors and off you go. 🙂

 

 

Link to comment

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.