Atomic Posted June 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Broke my edge finder as I was about to adjust the positioning of the stainless stock, f***... Need to wait till Monday earliest to get a replacement one. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 God damn, it took a long time to finish the piece 😄 I did some rookie mistakes and could have been more efficient, but all in all happy with the result, here are some pictures of the 4 days journey: I should have shaped the outer edges of the workpiece first and also face milled the top and bottom too. Oh well, you live, machine and learn. I still have a stock for another girdle which I'm about to sell in the future 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 3, 2020 Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 Steel is 3X stiffer than aluminum. If the point of a crankshaft girdle is support for the main caps why aluminum? It's also weakest where the throws pass by it and seriously thin around the oil pick up tube. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 (edited) 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Steel is 3X stiffer than aluminum. If the point of a crankshaft girdle is support for the main caps why aluminum? It's also weakest where the throws pass by it and seriously thin around the oil pick up tube. Who said it's aluminum? 😄 lol It's 1.4307 Stainless steel Plus are we really going to pretend it's going to snap there? Maybe my engine needs some other attention if that breaks. Edited July 3, 2020 by Atomic 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 3, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2020 (edited) And can you spot where other girdles are the thinnest? Look at the bolt hole sections: Plus some other ''thin'' walled sections: I'm very confident that mine will do its job Edited July 3, 2020 by Atomic Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 4, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2020 I will order some aluminum stock so I can start making the new intake manifold system. This time I will machine these intake trumpets so I can use them as adapters for the round 90 degree aluminum pipes for easy weld on. So first these will be welded on to the 90 degree intake pipes, and then to the flange for easy manufacturability: 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Ordered a lot of stock aluminum with 12 mm and 25 mm thicknesses. I'm going to machine new DIY kits for intake manifold sets and put them on sale. Then I assembled all piston rings and connecting rods. Also started printing prototype parts for strut tower brace. Probably going to make my own adjustable top camber plates too. I also inquired a pricing for a stock aluminum piece to machine valve cover out of it. I'm also going to pick up a lathe with vertical mill attached to it with ton of tools on Saturday. Hurray for tools! More custom parts incoming! 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 On 7/3/2020 at 7:28 AM, Atomic said: I'm very confident that mine will do its job I am now too. 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted July 8, 2020 Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 13 hours ago, Atomic said: I'm also going to pick up a lathe with vertical mill attached to it with ton of tools on Saturday. Hurray for tools! More custom parts incoming! This might be getting way out of control... but what the hey! Down the rabbit hole we go!!! 🐇🤪 2 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2020 Pistons ringed as told previously: 3D printed electronic box for the expansion board and AD converters for the temperature sensors: Also assembled the camshaft: I made an oopsie with the main cap bearings and one of the thrust bearings got damaged... New set will arrive next week Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2020 Got the lathe and made weld on steel adapter for the oil pickup tube: Then I received aluminum shipment for future builds: Then I took off some material from the oil adapter as it didn't fit with the socket: More cleaning to do in the garage so I can fit all the machines: Then I prototyped a blockoff plate for the distributor opening, I will machine the real one out of aluminum and put couple of them for sale: 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 Ordered 8 more tool holders and more collets for the tooling. I will start to crank out some parts in upcoming weeks 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 14, 2020 Report Share Posted July 14, 2020 21 hours ago, Atomic said: Got the lathe and made weld on steel adapter for the oil pickup tube: Then I received aluminum shipment for future builds: Then I took off some material from the oil adapter as it didn't fit with the socket: More cleaning to do in the garage so I can fit all the machines: Then I prototyped a blockoff plate for the distributor opening, I will machine the real one out of aluminum and put couple of them for sale: Did we discuss that there's a way to run a much larger output volume L series oil pump on the A series??? It keeps the A series top but uses the longer L series trochoid rotor and a modified shaft. Needs a lengthening of the body spacer. Pressure is the same or regulator can be shimmed but the extra volume raises the pressure at idle and very low speeds.The oil feed for the turbo will lower the idle pressure slightly, this will bring it back and then some. There is a high volume pump for the L series and my hot idle pressure jumped from 17 to 29 PSI while keeping the original 55-60 PSI when revved up.. This is certainly in your wheelhouse. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2020 14 hours ago, datzenmike said: Did we discuss that there's a way to run a much larger output volume L series oil pump on the A series??? It keeps the A series top but uses the longer L series trochoid rotor and a modified shaft. Needs a lengthening of the body spacer. Pressure is the same or regulator can be shimmed but the extra volume raises the pressure at idle and very low speeds.The oil feed for the turbo will lower the idle pressure slightly, this will bring it back and then some. There is a high volume pump for the L series and my hot idle pressure jumped from 17 to 29 PSI while keeping the original 55-60 PSI when revved up.. This is certainly in your wheelhouse. Yes we did and its almost completed. I need to find new pins and drill couple of holes to L series shaft 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 16, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2020 Got the drill press attached to the lathe too: Started assembling the engine: Had to drill a bit with 11 mm drill bit to make the socket fit with the ARP bolts with some excess threads. Lathe made this really easy: Bottom end torqued to ARP specs: Had to file the girdle a tiny bit because the new rods had different kind of ARP studs, which had a tiny bit longer head length: All pistons assembled and engine spins nicely: I'll be tinkering with new HALL sensor mounting spot and I will be making a camshaft trigger too for sequential fuel injection. As I don't want to flood the whole intake manifold with batch firing with excess fuel now that I have 750 cc injectors 4 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 Made an aluminum camshaft sensor weld on bungle: I also made a single tooth cam trigger by using the camshaft spacer: I'm still waiting for a M12x1 tap so I can make the threads for the bungle. Also I'm waiting for 10K potentiometers so I can fix my TIG current scale 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 Batch fire squirts 1/2 the fuel every turn of the engine but all injectors fire together. I don't think they run richer it's maybe just simpler, not necessarily better. It's old technology EFI. Most definitely post up some pictures of the oil pump build. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 17, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 (edited) 24 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Batch fire squirts 1/2 the fuel every turn of the engine but all injectors fire together. I don't think they run richer it's maybe just simpler, not necessarily better. It's old technology EFI. Most definitely post up some pictures of the oil pump build. With larger injectors I don't want the intake runners to be completely wetted with batch injection as they fire even when the intake valve is not open. Plus I believe this helps out with larger injectors and injector dead times? Sure I will, I had a friend of mine to dismantle the A15 shaft and drill new holes as I didn't have the equipment I have today available. The set has been hanging in his workshop for a while as I was in no hurry. I should probably go get it and finish it by my own. The only problem is the hardened steel shaft and the 3 mm holes I have to drill. Meaning I have to buy a 3 mm carbide drill most likely. Edited July 17, 2020 by Atomic 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2020 Report Share Posted July 17, 2020 Again 1/2 the fuel times two 1/2 as long injector pulses. It adds up to the same amount of fuel and time open. It was probably easier to design and make this way. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 I might own one of these soon: So I can start chopping larger stock sizes, and the vertical sawing capability is really a must, hurray for tools! 1 Quote Link to comment
afracer Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 Now that you're all setup to create; here's a few B310 items you can try: a solid aluminum steering bushing and an aluminum idler bracket that's been modified with two bearings instead of bushings. After that, look into making a splined sway bar setup for the front and rear. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 18, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 Bought the M12x1 tap and made the threads: Fits nicely now: Also wired up the power drill and made a small tab for the VR sensor: 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 Sprayed the copper gasket with some copper gasket spray to get a good adhesion for the oil and water ports: Cylinder head torqued down: Also started to prototype one of those rocker shaft floating spacers (also found from ebay:) I will make couple of these of my own as they are quite "expensive" on ebay. And it's a good practice to hone my skills on the lathe anyways. I'm probably going to anodize them black when they're ready. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 19, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 19, 2020 Had to order new rocker shaft as it was completely busted with deep scratches, same with the other motor rocker shaft?? Is it due to oil starvation or something? Coupled couple of rocker arms to be replaced from the other kit too and stacked them on top of the busted ones: Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted July 20, 2020 Report Share Posted July 20, 2020 On 7/18/2020 at 12:23 AM, Atomic said: With larger injectors I don't want the intake runners to be completely wetted with batch injection as they fire even when the intake valve is not open. Plus I believe this helps out with larger injectors and injector dead times? Sure I will, I had a friend of mine to dismantle the A15 shaft and drill new holes as I didn't have the equipment I have today available. The set has been hanging in his workshop for a while as I was in no hurry. I should probably go get it and finish it by my own. The only problem is the hardened steel shaft and the 3 mm holes I have to drill. Meaning I have to buy a 3 mm carbide drill most likely. Functionally, your intake runners will be wetted anyway because at high speed the runners will have a constant stream of fuel pulses spraying on them anyway. The sequential is good for individual cylinder tuning. Quote Link to comment
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