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Datsun B310 turbo coupe, A15 project


Atomic

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On 8/11/2021 at 10:46 PM, datzenmike said:

The Tut tut tut tut tut when revving is by the sound of it, a non functioning cylinder. Waiting for the results of the custom oil pump. I think it will be boss!!!

 

Very nice work BTW

 

18 hours ago, slowlearner said:

 

It runs! Great work! Sounds to me like it could be missing 2 cylinders actually. Keep at it. Check your ignition and injectors and off you go. 🙂

 

 

 

I actually pulled off the spark plugs, cleaned them and then ran the engine. Looks like cylinder 1 and 3 are not getting enough fuel. So fuel problem, need new injectors. 

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I would NOT rev or even run the engine long until your injectors are figured out and it's firing properly on all cylinders. Mismatched cylinder temperatures due to no fuel on some but fuel in others can warp the head and/or blow the head gasket.

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Posted (edited)

Who am I, what have I been doing! Definitely not my Datsun! I have had a lot of stuff going on in my life and I hope to bring back the project from the brink of death. I have things coming up soon so it will probably take me to 2025 to really get into the project again. Anyways, I just wanted to know that this project is still in my warm garage and is currently waiting for new set of fuel injectors and a tune up. 

 

From last time, I still have had the problem with the oil pressure once the engine warms up. I wonder if it is due to the size of the oil line orifice for the turbo. AND/OR the crappy injectors I have currently as the motor goes with 2 cylinders. Cylinders number 1 and 3 currently won't get fuel. 

 

Aaanyways, updates maybe towards the summer..?

Edited by Atomic
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Check on line for info on a restricter for the oil line to the turbo. I don't think they need that much.

 

There is an article in Club 1200 on modifying an L series oil pump to fit the A series to provide a higher volume output. Someone on here was doing it. I lost track.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Check on line for info on a restricter for the oil line to the turbo. I don't think they need that much.

 

There is an article in Club 1200 on modifying an L series oil pump to fit the A series to provide a higher volume output. Someone on here was doing it. I lost track.

The original modification is linked in this thread back some pages. + I made the adapter plate and all the stuff, but couldn't get pressure with that one sadly. I need to spend some time investigating what was wrong with the mod I did. So now I'm rocking with new repro pump there.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

-3 AN is usually big enough.

 

The turbo drain needs to be huge though.

The inlet restrictor currently has ~ 4 mm hole, the drain is about ~ 22 mm to the sump over the nominal oil level leaving with good angle from the turbo.

Also the turbo is a journal bearing one. 

 

Although I suspect it's just that my 2 cylinders are missing for now and the rpm's are not that steady on idle so I don't get good lubrication from the pump. I'm barely hanging on 14 psi on 2 cylinder idle atm when motor is at operating temperature.

Edited by Atomic
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Oil delivery is by RPMs (not working cylinders) so it should be 20 or better at 700. Rev it to 2000 it should easily reach the relief spring pressure of 50-60 PSI. 14s ok for idle as the engine is only making a couple of HP to spin the internals but revved up it should be much more. That 4mm is 0.160" that's huge. On an L head the oil jet is less than half that and it lubricates 8 cam lobes and four cam bearings with enough left over to squirt oil on the chain. On a turbo I assume it more to take away heat.

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11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Oil delivery is by RPMs (not working cylinders) so it should be 20 or better at 700. Rev it to 2000 it should easily reach the relief spring pressure of 50-60 PSI. 14s ok for idle as the engine is only making a couple of HP to spin the internals but revved up it should be much more. That 4mm is 0.160" that's huge. On an L head the oil jet is less than half that and it lubricates 8 cam lobes and four cam bearings with enough left over to squirt oil on the chain. On a turbo I assume it more to take away heat.

Yes, sorry I was a bit unclear with my thought. I was thinking that if the engine runs only with two cylinders, the RPM cycle would be uneven and cause the drop on mechanical oil pump. 

 

And what comes to the oil feed I need to think about a little bit more. 

 

Anyways, I will try to move one problem at the time, first comes to get all cylinders working. 

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Posted (edited)

In this episode of failures:

Who put goop into my engine?

img_20240426_203708_by_atomicsickness_dh

The car was running ish okay when I started it up with the new injectors (keyword), but then it stalled and just wouldn't run anymore. Well I checked the plugs and they were completely gooped up and then I took the intake manifold off to see what was up. There was this huge piling of material inside the walls. First it looked like it could be from the 3D printed intake manifold.

Img 20240426 203529

But then again, there wouldn't be any material left if that would have been the case. Also the powder was grey, so it must have been from somewhere else.

img_20240427_082109_by_atomicsickness_dh

Needless to say, everything was full of goop! Nice thing was that the engine fluids were nicely separated with the fire rings and copper head gasket!

img_20240426_203421_by_atomicsickness_dh

The goop had a silky texture and it dissolved as soon as you rubber your fingers together.

img_20240427_085949_by_atomicsickness_dh

Well if the goop wasn't from intake manifold, could it be from the fuel system? Oh yes... Yes it could...

img_20240427_090011_by_atomicsickness_dh

Fingerlicking good, similar very fine powder!

img_20240427_144153_by_atomicsickness_dh

Took the whole engine out to inspect everything else, the goop was on top of each cylinder and the cylinder walls, eww.

img_20240427_150359_by_atomicsickness_dh

The conrod bearings look okay ish? I hope that I could survive the engine rebuild with just new bearings, I hope I don't have to redo the surfaces

img_20240427_150947_by_atomicsickness_dh

Cylinder walls still had the X hatch pattern beside the darker coloration directly at 90 and 180 degree positions of the cylinders, need to check with the machine shop if they need to redo these?

 

 

TLDR: I think my fuel tank which had POR 2K treatment done to it failed to me and pushed goop through even the filter systems via fuel channels, this is why the previous injectors got clogged up for cylinders 1 and 3. So it's back to rebuilding the engine (again!) So this will set me back for another year because I have other stuff going on in life. But I will do my best to prepare everything and set everything back together. I might need to change the turbo and the manifolds too, the aluminum intake manifold flanges were warped pretty badly, I would like to fix that with new design. Also the exhaust manifold was full of burnt up goop, and I fear that the turbo is too. But hey, it's good time to get a ball bearing turbo (which should help with my oil pressure thingy!)

 

Edited by Atomic
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7 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Were those intakes sent out and powder coated?

Plastic Intakes are dyed and aluminum was painted from the outside only 

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