Lockleaf Posted July 9, 2021 Report Share Posted July 9, 2021 Very neat jig you made up for welding the injector bungs in place. Interesting work as always. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 Sent out an inquiry for the pricing of the intake manifold. More argon gas should arrive by Wednesday. I could assemble the exhaust manifold meanwhile and make the oil pump spacer ready so I can make the tubings ready for the oil cooler and back to the turbo and the oilpan. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 Oil pump spacer done: It even spins! Turned out alright in my opinion. I have ordered longer dowel pins so I can match the whole stack together when assembling. 3 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 12, 2021 Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 I got an oil cooler from a Ford 350. When all is said and done I doubt I need it on a stock L20B. The highest the oil temp had gone is 91C. I'm going to loop the hoses together and see how warm it gets without the cooler. I used 6-8 feet of high pressure hose to mount the cooler in front of the rad. The hoses alone will shed heat. 91C is 196F which is probably close to what the rad temp was that day. Takes over half an hour to get up to running temp in the 70s C. That's just above 160F ... too cold for oil. Will you have a thermostat control for the oil cooler? Have you considered an oil/water cooler? The engine coolant warms the oil quicker to operating temperatures then the rad becomes the cooler. Naturally you will need a larger rad. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2021 1 hour ago, datzenmike said: I got an oil cooler from a Ford 350. When all is said and done I doubt I need it on a stock L20B. The highest the oil temp had gone is 91C. I'm going to loop the hoses together and see how warm it gets without the cooler. I used 6-8 feet of high pressure hose to mount the cooler in front of the rad. The hoses alone will shed heat. 91C is 196F which is probably close to what the rad temp was that day. Takes over half an hour to get up to running temp in the 70s C. That's just above 160F ... too cold for oil. Will you have a thermostat control for the oil cooler? Have you considered an oil/water cooler? The engine coolant warms the oil quicker to operating temperatures then the rad becomes the cooler. Naturally you will need a larger rad. The oil plate split adapter that I have has thermo-switch yes. So once a temperature is reached, the oil starts to circulate through the cooler. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 16, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 I'm a bit confused, is this wiring setup with external regulator? Could someone chime in and help Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 16, 2021 Report Share Posted July 16, 2021 The wiring would be the same if internal or external regulators. It depends on the alternator internals and if there is an external regulator mounted under the hood, usually on the right inner fender. In the picture above the two wire plug in the back marked L & S on the alternator is for an internally regulator. An external regulator should be marked F & N. Nissan switched to internally regulated alternators for '78. I don't know if world wide but probably. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 16 hours ago, datzenmike said: The wiring would be the same if internal or external regulators. It depends on the alternator internals and if there is an external regulator mounted under the hood, usually on the right inner fender. In the picture above the two wire plug in the back marked L & S on the alternator is for an internally regulator. An external regulator should be marked F & N. Nissan switched to internally regulated alternators for '78. I don't know if world wide but probably. Ach. I hope I haven't damaged anything too much. I was running an alternator like the diagram above and I might have damaged the alternator, oopsie.. I need to do the wiring adjustment per wiki site suggests. I still had the external regulator place plug in the wiring harness for the coupe. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 17, 2021 Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 I believe that if you replace an external with an internally regulated alternator the only thing that happens is the engine won't shut off with the key.... and it doesn't charge properly. The regulator's plug can be cut off as you won't be needing it and the... White/Black stripe and the White/Red stripe wire joined together White and Yellow wires joined together. (be sure to solder and use heat shrink tubing) Just plug the modified plug into the harness and done. This will probably cause the electric choke heater relay to be permanently on, although the heater element is off with the key the coil in the relay is on and over a weekend it will drain you battery. What I did was unplug the heater relay. Then join the choke heater (usually a Blue wire) to the Idle cut solenoid. (usually a Red wire) Now the choke heater is powered by the Idle cut solenoid and turns on and off with the ignition. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 18, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 18, 2021 I think I don't have a choke heater even on the wiring harness on that one so I should be fine then. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 18, 2021 Report Share Posted July 18, 2021 It will have a choke heater and a choke heater relay. Somewhere. All electric chokes have this feature. It's not that the choke heater is on it's that the relay is energized all the time, even with the ignition off and this small drain over a weekend will run the battery down. I believe the 210 is the same way and this should be looked into to avoid a disappointing Monday morning. Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 28, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 Finally an update again! Got the 3D printed intake manifold from the 3D Formtech: Made custom hex M6 screws: Still need to think of a logo on the top black cover of the intake manifold. Will probably SLA print it and attach it later there. 3 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 And then paint that logo with a matching blue to the valve cover. Very cool work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted July 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2021 Bought some O-ring cord and o-rings for the plenum/intake manifold: Also painted the aluminum parts: 2 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2021 Had to extend the alternator bracket, the VR sensor was getting too close: Machined the block-off plate for the old distributor hole: Installed the tomei intake/exhaust gasket: Superb thing with this is that it has separated exhaust ports, the stock gasket has a large hole that combines cylinders 2-3: Turbo + injectors + EGT sensors + plenum + intake manifold + intake pluming all done: Installed the gear to the oil-pump too: Not a lot to do for "first" start... Need to make couple more cables for the Hall sensor + fans, buy a new oil filter, make oil tubings for the oil cooler and finish machining the valve cover top cap and put the radiator back in its place. And last but not least, put some oil and water in 😛 non mixed please 4 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2021 Tears (almost) and sweat! I had an emotional rollercoaster with the car. Tried to start the engine, cranks once... Retry, cranks once... Testing with battery voltage, cranking once, voltage drops to 3V... Going to a store early in the morning, waiting 1 hour for it to open. Bought 70Ah/700A battery. Back to home. New battery to its place, eyes on oil pressure gauge. Cranking.... Cranking.... Gauge reads 0... Injector rail fails, fuel all over... Took the modified pump and replaced it with new original pump, fixed the rail... No oil pressure, cranking still without plugs or injectors on... Took the pump off, primed again... Cranking... Cranking... Oil pressure to 4 bar! Injectors hooked, laptop hooked, cranking... Engine runs up and down, dialing some cold start values... Engine coming up to temperature, oil pressure dropping below 1 bar... Changed oils as the first one was just to prime stuff up. Oil pressure reads 3-4 bars cold. Engine warming, oil pressure settles to 1 bar with 750-850 RPM idle, stock pump with T intersection to the turbo, no oil cooler hooked up yet. My crankshaft pulley seems to be fucked up tho, its all messed up and twisting and turning, I probably have to design one of my own. But for now, here is some music: 3 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 Thinking about machining something like this: Pulley from 7075 aluminum and the triggerwheel from AISI 1018 or similar. Weight is going to be aprox. same as it is now with standard pulley and triggerwheel ~ 930 grams 3 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2021 Here is an idle video, was topping the coolant off so some excess is dripping still from the cap, so don't mind that. Engine temperature hovers around 87-95 degrees. Oil pressure at 850 RPM with hot oil seems to drop around 7-11 psi. It quickly increases with the rule of thumb of at least 10 psi per 1000 RPM. I'm a little bit concerned if something is still off. Everything was measured and brand spanking new. I wonder if it might be bad oil filter, some oil relief valve stuck open or something else going on with the pump? The pump I'm currently running is brand new from ebay, hmm... I will try with the modified pump tomorrow if I can get readings with that one. In person I can basically hear just the injectors ticking and some noise from the gearbox, but the engine seems to be smooth, thoughts? 3 Quote Link to comment
Atomic Posted August 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2021 (edited) No knock at least on higher RPM, but seems like one of my cylinders is not performing as well as the others, fuel pop around 33 seconds. I'll take the sparkplugs off tomorrow and see which cylinder might be the cause. I'm suspecting the bootleg injectors playing tricks on me. So will be probably buying a new flow matched set Edit: sounds like the compressor bypass valve is working as intended based on the air wooshing sounds Edited August 11, 2021 by Atomic 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 11, 2021 Report Share Posted August 11, 2021 The Tut tut tut tut tut when revving is by the sound of it, a non functioning cylinder. Waiting for the results of the custom oil pump. I think it will be boss!!! Very nice work BTW Quote Link to comment
Nevzat Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 (edited) Hello friends, I need drawings for the copper head gasket, my atom friend, can you help with this? There is no part of this engine in my country 🙂 Edited August 12, 2021 by Nevzat Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 Nevzat, is your engine un modified? If so a standard gasket would be easier, cheaper and work as well. Quote Link to comment
Nevzat Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 yes, my engine is stock, but I'm thinking of adding a turbo soon. but even if it stays in stock, there is not even a gasket in the country:( I think there is 1 in the country. i use this engine in a heavy camper vw T2 van so it would be nice if it was more powerful with turbo Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 Maybe start your own post on copper head gaskets? Then we can discuss at length without filling this post? 1 Quote Link to comment
slowlearner Posted August 13, 2021 Report Share Posted August 13, 2021 On 8/12/2021 at 3:00 AM, Atomic said: No knock at least on higher RPM, but seems like one of my cylinders is not performing as well as the others, fuel pop around 33 seconds. I'll take the sparkplugs off tomorrow and see which cylinder might be the cause. I'm suspecting the bootleg injectors playing tricks on me. So will be probably buying a new flow matched set Edit: sounds like the compressor bypass valve is working as intended based on the air wooshing sounds It runs! Great work! Sounds to me like it could be missing 2 cylinders actually. Keep at it. Check your ignition and injectors and off you go. 🙂 Quote Link to comment
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