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Considering engine swap


Kramer1981

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Im going after some fuel economy from this car over brute power, if I wasnt after some economy, i would just stick a 350 in it.

 

Best economy is going to come from a fresh A14, hands down. MPG won't go down much with an L16. Will go down a lot with a Z24.

 

Unless you also swap the Z20E/Z22E EFI onto it. B)

 

I havent even looked at the oil pan yet, so IDK yet, but if I can lay down oiltight welds on a rearend housing I think I can do it on an oil pan too. I hope maybe it just needs an attitude adjustment from a hammer though.

 

Hammer, no. Cut and paste. Totally.

 

A hammer has no chance here. :rofl:

 

You basically need to section out about 4" of the rearmost part of the pan to clear the steering center link.

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Its a four speed, dont know where the auto assumption came from...seriously though, this car moves at half the speed of smell

 

I'd say maybe you have bigger problems then? A healthy and well tuned A14 should be at least "fun" to drive, if not "fast". MPGs should be 25ish city and 30+ on the highway at least. Weber carbs make the car more fun, but can easily kill MPGs. Chances are that engine is just reeeeally tired.

 

FWIW, Swapping in a fresh A14/A15 will take you a day, and be an improvement from the sound of things. But more power is always tempting...

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Ok heres the deal...either Im gonna drive this thing as is OR stick the z24 in it.

 

Okay. B)

 

Modified pan (to clear steering center link), 510 crossmember, and a 720 truck/200SX trans should be all you need to get it in there then. :thumbup:

 

and that A14 could be really tired but I think at 146k it shouldnt be that bad

 

I've seen it. A14s with 225k that are strong as an ox, and A14s with 120k that were worn out. While they are pretty indestructible, you can prematurely wear out the rings if they aren't well maintained. and/or the valves could be not sealing very well.

 

Heck, you may just need to invest in some tuning/jets for the Weber. :thumbup:

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Okay. B)

 

Modified pan (to clear steering center link), 510 crossmember, and a 720 truck/200SX trans should be all you need to get it in there then. :thumbup:

 

 

 

I've seen it. A14s with 225k that are strong as an ox, and A14s with 120k that were worn out. While they are pretty indestructible, you can prematurely wear out the rings if they aren't well maintained. and/or the valves could be not sealing very well.

 

Heck, you may just need to invest in some tuning/jets for the Weber. :thumbup:

 

Whats the deal with the 510 x member? Not that I cant get one, I know where a 510 fourdoor is getting parted out, but why change?

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The change will make it a closer to bolt in affair.

 

Something not mentioned-you have a cable clutch.

Anything you want to swap in will be hydraulic.

Something to think about.

EDIT: I am incorrect with that one.

 

I would seriously invest some maintenance into your A motor before anything else.

Make sure it truly is as tired as you say.

If you can't tune it up, how ya gonna pull a swap off?

 

No offense.

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The change will make it a closer to bolt in affair.

 

Something not mentioned-you have a cable clutch.

Anything you want to swap in will be hydraulic.

Something to think about.

EDIT: I am incorrect with that one.

 

I would seriously invest some maintenance into your A motor before anything else.

Make sure it truly is as tired as you say.

If you can't tune it up, how ya gonna pull a swap off?

 

No offense.

 

I was 99% sure I had a hydraulic clutch, but its the middle of the night and Im not going out to look.

 

Ok maybe I should upload a bunch of pics, I have built alot of musclecars, alot, and done numerous motor swaps that werent supposed to fit, cars and heavy equipment. 302 and a toploader 4 speed in a 70 mustang 6 auto car, 400 pontiac in a 60 Cadyy, 500 Cad in a 60 Caddy, 4.3 auto in a 4banger 5 speed S10, 3tc toyota in a 69 VW bus, with a hydraulic clutch conversion, 350 into a 74 C60 Chevy truck that has a six, tiny three cylinder diesel into an old Wisconsin powered Bobcat, every MoPar swap you can think of, slant six-la-b/rb in every direction thinkable. MoPars are a pain because of the tranny kickdown rod, that can be some difficult shit to get it to work correctly.

 

That isnt even counting 4x2 to 4x4 conversions, rearend swaps, brake upgrades, 24 inch truck lifts,IFS to D60 conversions, airbag setups, body drops, and everything else thats a royal pain.

 

The reason I am interested in a swap is because of power and parts availability. Power goes without saying why, Im sure idiots in Hondas sporting fart can mufflers annoy everyone else as much as they annoy me. Parts availability I have noticed on the A14 is nonexistant used and very slim from parts stores, at least here anyway. But everywere seems to have alternators, belts, clutches, and such for 720 pickups...partially why I am running a 720 alternator on my B210.

 

Ya know, for my uncle being employed by Nissan/Peugeot dealership when I was a kid, I should know more. But I dont know Datsuns specifics at all. I know good and well a 280Z engine swap would be a bad idea and I have the motor and auto trans.

 

Most people here dont even know what a Datsun is...

 

Point is, Im competent but a bit lazy, i think time is better spent on an upgrade than trying to rejuvenate Old Smoky. Ddid I mention that? It smokes pretty good when i fire it up.

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