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Engine is not at TDC so I hope you marked the chain/cam sprocket relation.

If you didn't block the timing chain tensioner, disregard the above statement.

Fram filter failure.

This gasket has been blown for some time to be eroded this much OR severely over heated. (or both)

 

The heads pretty well dipped between 2&3. Should I expect a higher compression ratio?

Will swapping for flat-top pistons get me up to 10:1?

 

ANY shaving of the head will raise the compression.

Just flattops will give 9.941

 

Did you straight edge it to look for a warp? Shops will gladly shave a head that doesn't need it.

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Engine is not at TDC so I hope you marked the chain/cam sprocket relation.

If you didn't block the timing chain tensioner, disregard the above statement.

Fram filter failure.

This gasket has been blown for some time to be eroded this much OR severely over heated. (or both)

 

ANY shaving of the head will raise the compression.

Just flattops will give 9.941

 

Did you straight edge it to look for a warp? Shops will gladly shave a head that doesn't need it.

 

I just got back from the shop. I pulled the timing cover off and collected the tensioner parts.

The marks on the chain are gone so I'm not sure where to start but I saw a thread about counting the links or some shit.

I can't find a mark on the crank sprocket but I thought it was stamped. I have the original one and I know it's stamped.

I'm not fooling with it till I get the head back.

I guess I'll put #1 and the cam at TDC and bolt the head on. Then figure out the timing chain.

Never done this before. Shit happens and I learn from my mistakes. Not putting a piece of wood between the chain is costing me another 2 hours of labor.

 

I believe the HG was blown before the last owner bought it. When I got the truck I found oil on the plugs. I just finished it off.

The head does not appear to be warped but If i put an edge across the head between 2&3 you can see the wear. I'm getting the works. Dip, shave, port and polish, valve seats, valves, valve guides, valve guide seals, and he said he would do his best to repair any pitting. All for 100$

 

As for wear... The pistons seem to sit to one side of the cylinders. When I do the rebuild it may end up a 2.1 or hell I think I can go to 2.4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm not the first :fu:

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PC140004.jpg

 

I've done it one. I can do it again.

One link is definitely a bright link. And I can count!

It will all work out in the end.

Kind glad I pulled the timing cover. A lot of my bolts needed to be retorqued.

I'll be on the road by the weekend.

At which point I'm gonna go visit metalmonkey to bring him his wiper arm nut back :D

 

 

and steal his wheels

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Try not to let any debris get in the cylinders/rings ..

vacuum it out ... and cover it when not working with it ..

least dusty environment possible if you can help it

 

All that work for $100 ? Wow !

 

I'm gonna hit them with the shop vac when it's time. They're already full of gunk.

I took the thin cardboard sheet from the new headgasket and covered them up.

First thing I did when I pulled the head was take an oak leaf out of an oil channel. :rofl:

 

Yeah can't beat the price. He charges 50$ a head to clean and shave them, 100$ to do it all.

You can call any place around here and they all recommend him. I first found him through my buddy that races dirt track. He brings his pinto engine there. He spent about 3k last time though.

It was pretty much a stock 2.3 when I met him.

Now it's a 2.5? It's running 13:1 and spins 10k rpm. It's in a foxbody and it's fast as shit!

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