Block Out The Bottom?

[atkinson40]

Civic - Head gasket, Timing Belt, Water Pump, Rack and Pinion, Struts - Check

This little Biatch has the Cluster T gauge going wack/fail and I've changed the sender so I put a Tee in the coolant line going from head to intake manifold and ran a line/gauge inside to calm my nerves about whether or not it was really overheating until I can figure out WTF with the gauge.

 

 

1991 Camry- Newly aquired, Sweet deal from little old lady always garaged, $1600. 160k, paint looks new. Was running rough/intermitantly dieing and leaking fluid down over the PS pump.

 

Replaced the ETC sensor, cleaned the throttle body and MAF meter. Took off the dizzy cap and found the dizzy full of oil. Cleaned it for now but will probably need to pull the dizzy and replace an O-ring. This seems to have stopped the engine misbehavior. Found the valve cover loose and tightened. Hopefully this will stop the leak of fluid dribbling down over the PS pump. I REALLY didn't want to R&R the PS pump. Let the boss drive this car while I'm working on hers.

 

1992 Camry - Up on stands and about half way through the R&R of the CVC axles. Then brakes and try to track down ITS oil leak. Interwebs tell me there's also an O-ring in the dizzy thats a common failure causing oil leakage. That would be sweet if it was that.

 

1972 620 - Finally can begin to get my mind around this. Here's my question. In an attempt to save removing the intake/exhaust manifolds from the head, I've been thinking about loosening the head from the bock and pulling the block/tranny down and out from under the truck. Is this possible? thanks kevin

[datzenmike]

You would have to remove the cross brace under the oil pan that supports the torsion bars and also the steering. Most just lift it out.... Good question... I don't know. Maybe.

[Skib]

you could.

 

but your just creating a lot more work for your self.

 

 

from the sounds of it your also planng on leaving the intakes and head in place

and just dropping the lower end and trans?

 

thats a terrible idea, just take off the manifolds.

 

your attempts to short cut it is only going to make it 100x harder for you.

[datzenmike]

You will also need a lot of clearance to get it out from under.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Remember there was a thread a long time ago :

 

about how a Dentist goes thru ones asshole to pull a tooth.

 

I think this is close to it.

[bananahamuck]

Why would you even need to take intake and exhaust manifolds off just to pull engine?? Just pull engine with them still attached after unbolting exhaust pipe.

[elmerfudpucker]

Why would you even need to take intake and exhaust manifolds off just to pull engine?? Just pull engine with them still attached after unbolting exhaust pipe.

 

Or you do one of my numbers, if the exhaust is fubared, take a sawzall and cut the pipe about a foot past the connector and replace it all when you re install it. Hell the cat is probably plugged anyway.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Its a 72 should be a sperate intake and separeat exhaust manifold.

[flatcat19]

What is this thread even about?

Gathering of the minds to diagnose your cars?

Or just a venting session?

[banzai510(hainz)]

flatcat orginal ? is

 

"I've been thinking about loosening the head from the bock and pulling the block/tranny down and out from under the truck. Is this possible? thanks kevin "

 

 

Only thing I can figure out is the head is going to remand suspended in mid air by the exhaust or soemthing holding it up.

 

 

Bananahamock has the best and clost possible if the Y pipe bolts DONT Bust. still can be done.

 

these are the early manifolds ans should be ez to remove from the head and place or wire back the exhaust manifold to pull motor and the trans.

[Boaty]

I wouldn't justify all the extra work to remove the engine out the bottom just to save removing nuts/bolts for the intake and exhaust mani.

 

If you're going to that extent, you should just replace the manifold gasket as well. It's easy except for 2 bolts that hold the manifolds that are hard to get to without a swivel or if you can't reach up and under the exhaust. Removing the entire front suspension from the frame doesn't seem like it should even be considered an option.

 

Besides, how do you plan on scraping the bottom of the head when you put a new head gasket on? Surely you're not going to crawl up under the truck to scrape it with it playing hover-head over you....

[datsunaholic]

All sorts of things wrong with this idea.

 

1) You still have to move the engine forward to clear the rear of the trans, even with a '72 620. Normally that's by going OVER the front frame rail. You can't go UNDER it, the front of the block and the crank pully will still have to go under.

 

2) Plus you have to remove the steering and suspension crossbars.

 

3) The timing rails will have a heck of a time clearing the head. They protrude quite a way, and you can't drop straight down due to the aforementioned trans tail.

 

4) How are you going to clean the hed bottom surface?

 

5) How do you intend to reinstall it? Get the gasket lined up? Get the chain rails back in?

 

All to avoid 3 nuts on the Y-pipe?

[atkinson40]

Thanks Forum.

 

I don't have a cherry picker yet and was going through the mental exercise of how I might R&R the motor w/o one.

 

I wanted to pull tranny and block together because lining up the two while the one or the other is in the truck is a biatch.

 

This led me to thinking if there was enough to get the both of them up and out while clearing the front grill junk.

 

From there the question came to mind about out the bottom. Only dumb question is the one not asked.

 

Now I know. Gotta find a cherry picker at the swap meet. Thanks kevin

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

I thought your truck is running good

[atkinson40]

I thought your truck is running good

 

It runs banzai, but the comp on the cylinders is crap. About 110PSI dry and 150 PSI wet if I remember.

I'll remeasure the cylinders when I pull the head to make sure they're hosed as an exercise.

Got a quote from Motor Machine this morning to rebuild the short block. $515.

I'll scan CL until I get it pulled for one that someone else has already rebuilt for less.

If I can't find one I'll have MM rebuild it.

That means I've had the head, tranny, and block rebuilt.

Its been nice having the extra Camry. I can swap driving cars around and work on one at my leisure.

No Urgency. Thanks kevin

[Skib]

the only time I put an engine in from the bottom is when the engine bay is freshly painted.

 

but you pull it up into place with the cherry picker with the cross member attached to it,

and you bolt in all of the front suspension and steering when you do it.

[banzai510(hainz)]

If you engine does not use oil or really stink, runs fine

I wouldnt worry about the comp numbers

Just run it.

Buy a L16/18 block on the side, or Free and build it at your spare time. Then try to do a 1/2 day install.

[atkinson40]

If you engine does not use oil or really stink, runs fine

I wouldnt worry about the comp numbers

Just run it.

Buy a L16/18 block on the side, or Free and build it at your spare time. Then try to do a 1/2 day install.

 

Thanks Banzai

 

I think you're right. It doesn't smoke at all. I'll relax a bit and run it for awhile. Thanks kevin