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With only a dime and a dream.


DatMo

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ANOTHER issue.it was a column shifter and they decided to make it dogleg.

i know im missing the piece that i need but how else should i fix this damn thing?

any ideas. i kinda was planning to either sand it so it was somewhat not sharp, get a new piece of metal, bend it and smelt it over, install the new piece. and bam

also the stick is sticking out at an angle. not directly in the middle.

something is wrong yes?

but it was not originally auto because the firewall was not cut through, the clutch is stock. 

CAM00018_zpsff07ad19.jpg

 

 

here's a sighting too.

CAM00062_zpsa98c4984.jpg

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ANOTHER issue.it was a column shifter and they decided to make it dogleg.

i know im missing the piece that i need but how else should i fix this damn thing?

any ideas. i kinda was planning to either sand it so it was somewhat not sharp, get a new piece of metal, bend it and smelt it over, install the new piece. and bam

also the stick is sticking out at an angle. not directly in the middle.

something is wrong yes?

but it was not originally auto because the firewall was not cut through, the clutch is stock. 

 

I have no idea what youre even talking about... Let me try to decipher this:

 

  • Your car used to be a column shift manual transmission?
  • What piece are you saying you are missing?
  • Are you saying you are worried about the hole in the transmission tunnel having sharp edges? It doesnt matter... as long as the shifter does not come into contact with the tunnel during shifting, then you dont have to worry about it. 
  • Stop saying "smelt". It doesnt mean what you think it means. Youve used it a couple times when you were talking about fixing your radiator. When talking about your radiator you fix that by "brazing." When you are talking about fixing your transmission tunnel its "welding." "Smelting" is the process of extracting metal from ore. 
  • I do not believe anything is wrong with your transmission. The engine sits at something like 8* or 11*... something like that. So when the trans is bolted to it, its tilted as well. If you had a matching block and trans, they would counteract each other and your shifter would be straight. 
  • What does the car not being auto have to do with anything? I thought you already said it was originally manual?
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there's a 510 guru around and i was thinking i could just take it to him?

im not finding any other good sources? 

Are you talking about Mario? i'm always at his shop he def could make w/e you need. Let me know if your ever going to swing by his shop I might be able to catch you there while im working on my 510 and check yours out also. Possibly convince you to sell me your rear seat ;) lol

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I have no idea what youre even talking about... Let me try to decipher this:

 

  • Your car used to be a column shift manual transmission?
  • What piece are you saying you are missing?
  • Are you saying you are worried about the hole in the transmission tunnel having sharp edges? It doesnt matter... as long as the shifter does not come into contact with the tunnel during shifting, then you dont have to worry about it. 
  • Stop saying "smelt". It doesnt mean what you think it means. Youve used it a couple times when you were talking about fixing your radiator. When talking about your radiator you fix that by "brazing." When you are talking about fixing your transmission tunnel its "welding." "Smelting" is the process of extracting metal from ore. 
  • I do not believe anything is wrong with your transmission. The engine sits at something like 8* or 11*... something like that. So when the trans is bolted to it, its tilted as well. If you had a matching block and trans, they would counteract each other and your shifter would be straight. 
  • What does the car not being auto have to do with anything? I thought you already said it was originally manual?

 

I sound like an idiot. Thanks for the constructive criticism. 

and the piece im missing is something along the lines of what's in the pic.

I don't know its definite name. 

imagejpeg_0_zpsb8ca9ea5.jpeg

and the problem is when I go into reverse it is hitting the tunnel.

It's extremely lose as well and it's almost as if it's in neutral when I'm in 2nd gear.

oh, but what do you mean matching block and trans? as in my trans isn't the one belonging to an l16?

sorry. I know im irritating at times. thanks in advance tristin. 

i tried doing research and couldn't find much.

and just forget the last part. I'm an idiot. 

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I sound like an idiot. Thanks for the constructive criticism. 

and the piece im missing is something along the lines of what's in the pic.

I don't know its definite name. 

[img=http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u367/fiveonemo/imagejpeg_0_zpsb8ca9ea5.jpeg]

and the problem is when I go into reverse it is hitting the tunnel.

It's extremely lose as well and it's almost as if it's in neutral when I'm in 2nd gear.

oh, but what do you mean matching block and trans? as in my trans isn't the one belonging to an l16?

sorry. I know im irritating at times. thanks in advance tristin. 

i tried doing research and couldn't find much.

and just forget the last part. I'm an idiot. 

I knew this is what you were talkin about, as far as the tunnel hitting I'm guessing they didn't cut enough of it off. And the whole feeling loose thing idk what you can do about that my old 510 was like that too but didn't sound as bad as yours

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So i think your problem is that the hole in the tunnel is too small, you may also have a bad or loose trans mount

isn't there a missing part like the one that I posted?

I used to work on a friends honda and he had a piece there and a few bm's ive helped work on have a piece there as well?

it's probably the mount.

I have another l16 trans so what would i take off of it to fix it?

if you have the time and wanna help.

thanks q-tip.

l16 trans work on the l20 from what i know so i didnt put the other l16 trans i have because its in better condition. 

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Youre not really annoying, youre new to cars so you dont know everything... it takes time. Were here to help so I just wanted to make sure people knew what the hell you were talking about. If we cant tell what youre saying, we cant give you the answers or advice you need. 

 

 

 

Anyway, without getting into specifics, most older Nissan/Datsun transmissions are interchangeable. Thats why you see people with transmissions from 200zxs, 280zxs, etc. on their 510s/521s/620s. The bolt patter on the block and the trans are the same so they bolt together. That doesnt mean that they were made for each other. If you look at the L series blocks they are slightly angled something like 8*. When you bolt up a trans that was made for the L series, the shifter is adjusted -8* so that its straight up and down. The Z series blocks, they are slanted differently... so when you bolt up a Z series trans to an L series block, it results in a slanted shifter. 

 

Like I said, as long as its not hitting the tunnel, its fine. It wont hurt anything. If it is hitting then you may have either bad transmission mounts, they are loose, or when they cut a hole in the tunnel to run the shifter through, they didnt cut enough of it. 

 

That piece you linked a picture to will not fix your problem. Its just a piece that bolts onto the tunnel so that there is a tiny whole in your floor when youre driving it, but when you need to work on it, you can unbolt it for better access. 

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I knew this is what you were talkin about, as far as the tunnel hitting I'm guessing they didn't cut enough of it off. And the whole feeling loose thing idk what you can do about that my old 510 was like that too but didn't sound as bad as yours

but am i missing the piece as suspected?

and i dont have the best pics but the whole is jagged upwards and its sharp. i wanna sand it out at the least and smooth it up.

yeah. my third gear is a lil shaky but my second is just extreme. 

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but am i missing the piece as suspected?

and i dont have the best pics but the whole is jagged upwards and its sharp. i wanna sand it out at the least and smooth it up.

yeah. my third gear is a lil shaky but my second is just extreme. 

 

If your car was not a floor shift model from the factory, you wont have that piece. People installed that later and just cut a whole in the tunnel so the shifter would poke through. Just take a small cutoff wheel and clean the hole up so its not so sharp and none of the gear pattern hits the edges. 

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Youre not really annoying, youre new to cars so you dont know everything... it takes time. Were here to help so I just wanted to make sure people knew what the hell you were talking about. If we cant tell what youre saying, we cant give you the answers or advice you need. 

 

 

 

Anyway, without getting into specifics, most older Nissan/Datsun transmissions are interchangeable. Thats why you see people with transmissions from 200zxs, 280zxs, etc. on their 510s/521s/620s. The bolt patter on the block and the trans are the same so they bolt together. That doesnt mean that they were made for each other. If you look at the L series blocks they are slightly angled something like 8*. When you bolt up a trans that was made for the L series, the shifter is adjusted -8* so that its straight up and down. The Z series blocks, they are slanted differently... so when you bolt up a Z series trans to an L series block, it results in a slanted shifter. 

 

Like I said, as long as its not hitting the tunnel, its fine. It wont hurt anything. If it is hitting then you may have either bad transmission mounts, they are loose, or when they cut a hole in the tunnel to run the shifter through, they didnt cut enough of it. 

 

That piece you linked a picture to will not fix your problem. Its just a piece that bolts onto the tunnel so that there is a tiny whole in your floor when youre driving it, but when you need to work on it, you can unbolt it for better access. 

oh. I was about to buy that piece but it doesn't sound worth it much. 

do most people just have a hole like my tunnel does? I wish they would at least cut it properly. 

so how does yours look.

I get why it's at a tilt now and I do know the tilt of the block you're speaking of. 

I think they didn't cut the hole big enough because it's only in reverse that this occurs.

Well im happy i know i have the l16 trans so I can put that in and my shifter will be in the center.

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If your car was not a floor shift model from the factory, you wont have that piece. People installed that later and just cut a whole in the tunnel so the shifter would poke through. Just take a small cutoff wheel and clean the hole up so its not so sharp and none of the gear pattern hits the edges. 

Thanks. The picture i posted above is the plate. If I were to switch and put the l16 trans on, it would be centered then I think the plate would be a worthy purchase. 

if i were to switch to the l16 trans, would i just cut a new hole and not cover up the existing one?

or would i weld( believe is the right term lol) a sheet of metal over the old thole and cut a new clean one.

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If your trans works fine, I wouldnt swap it out. Just cut the tunnel back an inch or so. My tunnel isnt cut as I have a column shift auto. 

the thing is it doesnt.

like i said, my second feels like neutral.

the l16 trans is in good condition. that's why i was waiting to just swap it in when i get my l20.

I dont plan to swap my current one out until awhile. 

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Thanks. The picture i posted above is the plate. If I were to switch and put the l16 trans on, it would be centered then I think the plate would be a worthy purchase. 

if i were to switch to the l16 trans, would i just cut a new hole and not cover up the existing one?

or would i weld( believe is the right term lol) a sheet of metal over the old thole and cut a new clean one.

 

Yes I know what that picture is of. Its not required, but if you really want to find one be my guest. I couldnt tell you if welding is required. You would have to swap in the other trans that you have and see where the shifter comes through the tunnel. Then move the shifter into the most forward and most aft position to see if it touches anything. If the whole is too big then weld it up so that it covers the area you dont want open (while still not touching the shifter). If its not that much, then who cares... youre going to have carpet over it and then a shift boot on top. No one is going to see it. 

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Yes I know what that picture is of. Its not required, but if you really want to find one be my guest. I couldnt tell you if welding is required. You would have to swap in the other trans that you have and see where the shifter comes through the tunnel. Then move the shifter into the most forward and most aft position to see if it touches anything. If the whole is too big then weld it up so that it covers the area you dont want open (while still not touching the shifter). If its not that much, then who cares... youre going to have carpet over it and then a shift boot on top. No one is going to see it. 

the capret is another issue. I was thinking that wouldn't water get into the carpet and ruin it?

my brother said there's an absorbant material you put under your carpet that i somewhat have and I'm suppose to use that as well.

thanks. my problems pretty much solved. now i just need to get that sanded down a little and ill keep it how it is until i get the l20.

then i'll cut a new hole for the l16 trans and weld the extra off. and get a plate then too. 

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Cant really tell on my phone but the part you have pictured just looks like a cover for the transmission tunnel. The datsuns just have a hole cut in the tunnel and yours isnt big enough

if i were to get a 5 spd 280zx trans. would it be at an angle? 

i'd want to get one for my l20. 

and would any water get into here? I don't want it to ruin my new carpet. 

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imagejpeg_0_zpsb8ca9ea5.jpeg

 

As far as I know, the plate like this that is the proper one for the 510 is pretty much there for your shift boot to screw into......... helping to keep water from coming into the cab through the typical gaping tranny hole.  If you look around the inner circle even on this plate pictured, there are four small holes.  The holes in the stock plate would match up to holes in your stock shift boot (if you had one).

 

But, you could always just drill holes in your tranny tunnel and put the shift boot straight into that and you wouldn't need the extra plate.

 

And in regards to the "neutral feel" while in 2nd..... I don't know if it's normal, but mine is that way in the 521 as well...... but the transmission works just fine.  

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