Tangents 68 521

[tangent]

two more books to add to your list would be to grab how to tune and modify efi systems by motorbooks. Then aslo corky bell wrote a book on suprcharging and is just as well written as maximum boost. peace.

 

was it "How to tune and modify engine management systems" ??

thats listed on amazon... my motorbooks

[sjeff64]

just a little to much black for me

[Icehouse]

I want all those books!!

[tangent]

TAA DAA

 

 

I hope this one gives me a little more hope.. the Turbo Book Has explained alot about the Principle, but truley has Really Got me asking more Questions than it has answered.. Which is a Good Thing. Mind you Im only half way through it. Alot of "Ahh Ha" moments.

 

The more I learn though the more I wish I had a 510 to be putting this Imaginary, Unbought, Unbuilt, Engine into.

[nismopu]

tthhaatt bbee tthhee oonnee!! OOHH AANNDD BBTTWW SSOOMMEE LLIITTTTLLEE TTUURRDD IINN MMYY NNEEIIGGHHBBOORRHHOODD HHAACCKKEEDD MYMY WWIIRREELLEESS AANNDD NNOOWW II HHAAVVEE TTHHIISS CCOOOOLL DDOUOUBBLLEE LLEETTTTEERR TTHHINIGNG GGOOIINN OONN PPRREETTYY SSWWEETT EEHH??

[tangent]

tthhaatt bbee tthhee oonnee!! OOHH AANNDD BBTTWW SSOOMMEE LLIITTTTLLEE TTUURRDD IINN MMYY NNEEIIGGHHBBOORRHHOODD HHAACCKKEEDD MYMY WWIIRREELLEESS AANNDD NNOOWW II HHAAVVEE TTHHIISS CCOOOOLL DDOUOUBBLLEE LLEETTTTEERR TTHHINIGNG GGOOIINN OONN PPRREETTYY SSWWEETT EEHH??

 

awesome....

[nismopu]

Well now that I am on the work comp. I dont have to worry about the lovelly double letter syndrome. I was gonna say that you should book mark the formulas he lists in thaqt book because it always sucks searching for them later and theyre super accurate and quite useful! I reccomend this book to anyone who favors EFI and tuning EFI systems. The projects in the back of the book are pretty insane like the turbo charged and supercharged v6 mr2, 850hp is pretty insane! peace.

[makibaka]

All the brake lines are plumbed and bled... exept for the rear.. appearantly my salvage M/C is KAPUT.. the front works but the rear.. nothing.. ordered a reman and it should be here in 2 days..

 

IMG]http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u164/tangent_vs_juncture/brakelines009.jpg[/img]

 

 

what rod did you use on the brake MC? 521? My MC dying and I'm going to blot up z32/Fineline brake stuff so I'm looking for a temporary MC to run until I can take time off to do the underdash set-up...

[tangent]

You are going to need to make a rod for the M/C, I used the bracket of the 521 M/C rod and welded something up.. I used measurements i took off a messed up M/C and my rod ended up about 1/4 inch to long so the pedal is kind of awquard right now

 

You are going to have to Mount up the 280zx M/C, and then make your own rod..just get your legnth once the M/C is mounted

 

 

I dont think the washer is terribly important if you have the the set screw on the brake pedal set correctly so the pedal cant come back too far there by letting the rod drop out of the M/C..

 

I had a Neutral saftey switch on the clutch that I moved over to the Brake for my Brake lights..I didnt plumb the hydrolic brake switch back into my system

 

You will have to wallow out the bolt holes on the 280zx M/C if you use one, as well as the larger hole in the firewall that the bore goes into, the 280zx mc has a slightly larger diameter.. the larger resevior will have to be clocked as well so it doesnt hit the firewall....

[makibaka]

You are going to need to make a rod for the M/C, I used the bracket of the 521 M/C rod and welded something up.. I used measurements i took off a messed up M/C and my rod ended up about 1/4 inch to long so the pedal is kind of awquard right now

 

You are going to have to Mount up the 280zx M/C, and then make your own rod..just get your legnth once the M/C is mounted

 

 

I dont think the washer is terribly important if you have the the set screw on the brake pedal set correctly so the pedal cant come back too far there by letting the rod drop out of the M/C..

 

I had a Neutral saftey switch on the clutch that I moved over to the Brake for my Brake lights..I didnt plumb the hydrolic brake switch back into my system

 

You will have to wallow out the bolt holes on the 280zx M/C if you use one, as well as the larger hole in the firewall that the bore goes into, the 280zx mc has a slightly larger diameter.. the larger resevior will have to be clocked as well so it doesnt hit the firewall....

 

Thank you!

 

Happen to have any pics? I know. I'm a demanding SOB... :o

[makibaka]

Sorry, I meant pics specifically of the rod you made.... :D

[tangent]

ok dont laugh, I am just learning to weld.. so this isnt very pretty, but it will give you an Idea of the legnth that is needed.. remember mine is a little long and im planning on making another one a little shorter....

 

probably just a grade 8 bolt and a new bracket from ace hardware.

 

5 1/2 inches is the current legnth, and my pedal sits back to far, I think 5 or 5 1/4 is going to be the magic number...

 

 

[kiznook]

you could use a bolt for the shaft and weld a nut to the pedal attatchment piece and it would be adjustable. or you could to it turnbuckle style.

 

kekeke shaft :D

[mklotz70]

I'm pretty sure the clutch pushrod was an adjustable one. Kiz's idea of doing the nut would make things easier for you. Don't forget a lock nut. No need to do a turnbuckle since the end in the m/c will spin. Cut the head off the bolt and round it on a grinder....take your time and get it as close to the original as possible. Depending on the bolt, you should get at least 3/4" of adjustment. That will be nice if you need to adjust your pedal height any. You can get that spec from the manuals on http://www.the620.com 's tech page.

[mklotz70]

http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2005&PN=5

 

there's some pushrod info on this page too.

[kiznook]

I'm pretty sure the clutch pushrod was an adjustable one. Kiz's idea of doing the nut would make things easier for you. Don't forget a lock nut. No need to do a turnbuckle since the end in the m/c will spin. Cut the head off the bolt and round it on a grinder....take your time and get it as close to the original as possible. Depending on the bolt, you should get at least 3/4" of adjustment. That will be nice if you need to adjust your pedal height any. You can get that spec from the manuals on http://www.the620.com 's tech page.

 

That's funny. As I wrote out my response I included the part about the lock nut, But I was having a hard time wraping my mind around the situation and forgot that the other end is free inside the MC. I then added the part about turnbuckle, confused myself too much and gave up and posted it.

 

I feel like a n00b

[tangent]

http://www.nwde.org/extras/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=2005&PN=5

 

there's some pushrod info on this page too.

 

interesting.. they are exactly the same length.. but i think on my 521 i want it shorter.. I started out with allthread and then slipped a piece of metal tubing over it when i had it to the legnth I wanted and welded it up.. but its still too long.. Im just going to weld a grade 8 bolt to it and just cut it down a little at a time till i can Heel Toe the throttle and brake and still have plenty of travel for the pedal.

[tangent]

So as I have stated over and over again.. I am a Carpenter.. My love of Datsuns has nothing to do with a love of Internal Combustion Engines.

 

I feel defeated.. the 521 is still running like crap.. before it got garaged for its Brake Conversion the L20 was running rough intermittantly. The fuel pump seemed to be failing.. it would act like it was running out of gas, and I would tighten all the screws on the top of it and then it would run better.. It was slow to start in the cold but I attributed that to the fact that the electric choke linkage was disconnected.

 

I replaced the fuel pump.. fuel filter.. blew out the lines to the gastank.. drained the gas, the bottom section of the carb was loose, removed the carb, replaced the gasket between the bottom and middle section of the carb, replaced the accelerator pump, changed the needle valve (when i put it in i saw it physically push the float down in the sight glass, yet the fuel is still to the top of the sight glass) blew out the orifaces with chemtool. Checked the rotor bug and cap replaced fuel lines and vacum lines. Set the valve lash.. But have not put a timing light on it yet

 

when i start it, I have to feather the throttle to get it to stay running, but this is nothing new and I attribute it to the choke. once it warms, it will run but will not idle most of the time, when I can get it to Idle, if I throttle it up gradually, at what I imagine is about 2500 rpm (as I dont have a tach) it will hit a wall and start to die, i then have to feather the throttle to coax it past this threshold. It will rev if I stomp on the throttle, if I put a load on it, I.E. Driving It.. it bogs down.

 

Is there some standard setting for the mixture screws on the hitachi?? (all the way in and then out 2 and 1/4 turns or something like this)

 

My confidence is falling.. Laura might just have the best Idea when she said

"Does an SR or a KA have a carburetor?"

"No" I say.

"Well then why do you even need to figure it out.. lets just pull the motor!" She replied

 

I should probably listen to her. But I cant let the Bastard beat me. I want to drive it and Im not ready to do the Swap Yet.

[Duke]

You haven't timed it??? Do that, NOW. Also, it sounds like the mixture, and the idle may be off. So once you get it timed, check the plugs to see what the mixture looks like, and raise the idle so you don't have to feather the gas all the time to keep it running. But time it first.

[mklotz70]

Are you running electronic ignition? Either way....make sure you have a good, dedicated ground wire from chassis ground to the dizzy. Also make sure you have a good ground between the batt to engine and to the chassis. I've seen a bunch of datsuns with only the eng grounded. The coil is grounded to the chassis, so if there's no good ground between the eng and the chassis, you won't get as strong a spark as possible. They typically run because they find a ground through choke cables, driveline......but not a good one. I've seen the performance on at least 2 different dato's improve with simply running a 10ga wire from the eng to the radiator support. A couple more improved with just the dedicated line to the dizzy.

 

If you have big vac leaks, the idle mix becomes ineffective because there's not enough air getting pulled past the hole in the venturi. Make sure your secondary throttle plate is completely closed!! I just came across this with Dave C's wgn. We couldn't get the idle where we wanted it...pulled the carb, second barrel wasn't adjusted right and was letting air in. Got that fixed and we were able to adj the air mix and the idle screw correctly. But....it doesn't sound like your prob is the secondary. You want the idle screw holding the butterfly open a small amount or air will not rush past the hole and pull gas in....and you will not be able to set the air mix correctly. On a weber, you want the butterfly only open enough to barely keep the engine running......rough likd a tractor is fine, but running. Anyway....

 

As for timing...if you don't have a light....with it running, you can turn the dizzy from retarded to advanced and it should idle faster. Turn it down to where it runs slow and smooth...Hopefully, you can retard it enough that it will run a bit rough. Now...go back to smooth, then just a tiny bit more. You want to keep the idle below 850 or so...don't want the mechanical advance kicking in. If you have the timing too far advanced at idle, the ign can be over advanced when the mech adv kicks in...causing the motor to lose power.

 

I usually hook up a vac gauge to the vac advance port to make sure that there is no vac at idle....if there is, you have the butterfly open too much.

 

Anyway...there's more you can check/do with a timing light, but that will get you in the ball park without any gauges.

 

On Dave's, we got rid of a good bit of bog by taking some washers out if his vac adv on the dizzy(can't do it with all types). His vac adv wasn't kicking in until almost 16" of vac. I think it kicked in around 12 when we finished.

[Icehouse]

So as I have stated over and over again.. I am a Carpenter.. My love of Datsuns has nothing to do with a love of Internal Combustion Engines.

 

 

My confidence is falling.. Laura might just have the best Idea when she said

"Does an SR or a KA have a carburetor?"

"No" I say.

"Well then why do you even need to figure it out.. lets just pull the motor!" She replied

 

I should probably listen to her. But I cant let the Bastard beat me. I want to drive it and Im not ready to do the Swap Yet.

 

 

I hate the combustion engine to... I want mine to be electric :D So much simpler. I'm with Laura! Okay this is how I fix them... Pop the hood, you will notice under the oil filter a 12mm nut, remove it, okay look right under the exhaust mani, there should be another, remove that one to. Now go inbetween the firewall and the engine you will find a few 14mm bolts, remove all of them. There may be a few smaller ones, don't stop now :D get it under the nearest tree, put a strap over a big branch hooking that to a chain and a come along start cranking. If anything tries to stop the accent of the L, cut it!! :D Now that the engine is out ship it to Paulo. hehe sorry I couldn't resist :D

 

So this carb is the original one? On one of the 521's I had the carb was so worn the return spring wore through!!! Dam near everything was that bad. Can we get a few pics of your carb? does it have the throttle switch? What you are describing sounds like what I found on one of my 521's. The PO leaned on the air filter which was just enough to bend the throttle switch into the throttle linkage. If you really throttled it it would go past, but it would sometimes get stuck. Not that scary in a 521 but with the clutch down it doesn't sound to good, 6k L's aren't meant to be!! :D So I say you see if the throttle is opening the butterfly fully.

 

Like Mike said check for vacuum leaks, I use carb cleaner. Spray it over all the gaskets, if she revs you got yourself a vacuum leak. Be sure not to get overspray into to carb though. You don't want a faulty reading.

[tangent]

YEAH it got to be getting air from somewhere.. timed it and adj the float and now i can drive and idle it with the choke on.. probably getting air in the manifold from somewhere.. got to buy some more carb cleaner..

 

gonna buy a cherry picker next week and pull it...

[Icehouse]

gonna buy a cherry picker next week and pull it...

 

Why don't you put the sr in the 521 in the back yard?

[tangent]

Why don't you put the sr in the 521 in the back yard?

 

It doesnt have the disc brakes on it! or the new bushings bearings linkage and stuff..

[tangent]

speaking of disc brakes.. drove it a few miles today and they are beginning to seat.. it stops quick.. cant wait till they are completely seated it will be awesome. its only stopping on just a portion of the rotor right now, cant imagine how fast its gonna stop when the whole rotor is being used.

 

drivers side

 

 

passenger side