Dawa Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 wheels: received both the rays/volks and hawsers from japan. stock open ended acorn lugnuts (21mm O.D.) are too big to fit into either wheel. got 24 open ended bulge acorn lugnuts (19mm O.D.) @ discount tire for about $1 a piece. ill probably have to get extended studs but before that ive just been looking for some wider yet smaller sidewall tires for either set of wheels. ill also probably need spacers. here are some photos of test fits, they might be kinda big, sorry: 15 Rays/volks 16 hawsers Quote Link to comment
dirty-mik3 Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 congrats! we now all know where you live and your phone number. :rofl: hahahha but in other news, the trucks looking rad, even though iv already seen all these pics ;) Quote Link to comment
toddluck Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 cant wait to see it with rubber on it Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 photos time! these are the mirrors i run, regular 3" swan arm peep mirrors got my carpet in: "plenty" of juke or whatever its called: Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 inner clearance of hawser wheels @ full lock now some general photos for reference purposes: the initial thread that started it all http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46137-new-wheels-but-questions-about-wheel-studs/ the wheel studs that were installed in my truck overall length: 44mm head: 5mm underhead length: 38mm knurl length: 7mm total shoulder length: 14mm total threaded portion length: 22mm hub thickness: -front approx 6.5mm -rear approx 8mm (seems the rear hub is thicker than the front? according to my measurements..) drum thickness: approx 6.5mm (overall length of 44mm) underhead length approx 38mm 1 Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2012 longer studs came in! Moser part number 8255 m12-1.5x2.5in knurl diameter: .505in (12.83mm) knurl length: underhead length: 2.5in (63.5mm) $22 for 10 @ summit! after extensive research, these were the best stud to go with. you cant use any other dorman, they arent long enough. arps etc are more expensive. i chose these specifically because of the matching knurl diameter, (AND length/price, of course.) grand total of $71 for 30, to my door i thought the box was super light, i guess its lack of packing new studs installed in hub i made the mistake of removing the hub before studs on this one. very messy results. for the next ones ill pound the studs out and then remove the hub to install new studs length left with shoes installed (2 7/8") length left with (old) wheel & nuts installed (1.5in) the new wheels will reduce about 8 or 9mm from the above photo. theyll be more than enough stud left if i have to add spacers to clear disc brake conversion. after spending a few days on craigslist lookin for used tires, a few days online, etc i finally found my tires! and for super cheap i might add! THE cheapest 215/40/16 i could find. i really wanted 225, 235s or higher but my goal was to lose an inch of height via sidewall reduction so 35 or 40 series in those sizes are either non existent or too expensive for me old vs new comparison (didnt are to plug in offsets) Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 i spent saturday trying to find a shop that would 'stretch' a 215 onto my 8.5s. the major shops dont want to do it. a friend of mine said "Pann" would do it, so i called them up and they said yes but not til monday cuz they were busy with a meet/sale/raffle. so i googled 'stretched tire san diego' or something like that and a few different results suggested Bear's tires in miramar. i called em up and they said they can do it. long story short they got the job done and that is an awesome shop, i recommend them to anyone. here's my truck waiting along with another customer as i was leaving, this guy named Rus(s?) rolled up in a slammed/rolled-fender toyota tacoma trying to see if the guys could stretch some tires for him: those are 18x10 varrstoens. i think the tire size was 205 or around there. he was rolling on ssr sp1s (one of my favorites) 16x9.5 i think? bed fulla new set up well, enough stalling. guys, i HATE how the truck looks now. i went WAAY too small on the tires: only about 2.5" of clearance in the rear, now. the only good thing about the wheel/tire size reduction is she definitely scoots a bit more so my plans to fix this are: -lower the front at least 1" via torsion bar index (they havent been indexed at all yet, actually, only adjusted @ the anchor bolt.) -i have a pair of 245/50/16s that im going to put on the rear tomorrow. this will not raise it HIGHER than stock to give extra ground clearance (stock dia: 25.5", 255 dia:25.7") but also get rid of some of that rear fender gap. THEN ill install 4" blocks in the rear. (that i have to buy. probably bell techs w the slant) -ordered KYB GR-2s (part number 344046) for the rear last night and will order gr-2 pinto shocks for the front. eventually gonna raise the front upper mount. also finally ordered a temp gauge from autoplicity.com (best prices online!) autometer Z series (part number 2607) it took me a while to figure out exactly which gauge to go with but i chose this one because its: -analog -mechanical -similar to stock appearance -comes w/ capillary tube - 2 1/16" (vs 2 5/8") - 120 to 240 degree range (280 is needlessly too high) w/ 270 degrees of sweep! i really searched hard to find an autometer gauge for under $50 but couldnt do it. -i wouldve liked a 60-210 degrees but those are over $100! -voltmeter and oil pressure gauges are next. also in the market for outside micrometers for the L20 rebuild. Quote Link to comment
Lee R Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 215/60 or 205/60 would be a decent stretch while at the same time filling in the gap. I like those Volks too but no $$$$ right now. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 20, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 eh im not much of a 'stretched' kinda guy. i'd run 285s in the rear if i could afford it and had the power to back it up and ive received absolutely no contact from potential buyers so those wheels might still be around if you ever come up with some $$ Quote Link to comment
Eagle_Adam Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 they do look a bit small, live and learn ;) Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 They look a little small, but it would look fine if the truck was slammed and not just a little low. The wheel/tire combo looks fine, its just the gap that looks stupid. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 I want those wheels. they're called hawsers? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 They look a little small, but it would look fine if the truck was slammed and not just a little low. The wheel/tire combo looks fine, its just the gap that looks stupid. i agree with and already said all of that (just in a nicer way :) ) the only thing keeping me from lowering the rear more is the lack of ground clearance. I want those wheels. they're called hawsers? yep hawers is the company name i guess. not sure of the exact model name. the center cap says 'hawser italy' but they have 'made in japan' stamped on them. or ill just sell them to you for 900 Quote Link to comment
Tristin Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Yeah I read that and agree. I think it's crazy that the leafs are almost touching the ground and the truck isn't even close to it. I don't fault you for not going any lower at the moment. Quote Link to comment
ddrum Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 wheels are small, but i think it looks good :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 im liking the look of the truck a little more. im not sure if it's because the suspension settled a little, or if it's just growing on me. also, this photo is somewhat deceptive because of the shadow Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 alright so got my magnetic oil drain plug in (i know, nothing special but i was waitin on it to change my oil) (can you guess my oil preference?) also got my blocks in, which was super quick. tried to re-index the torsion bars. removed both snap rings, and was able to re-index the passenger side but when i got around to the driver side i couldnt remove the 'anchor arm' (claw looking thing.) passenger side anchor arm moved forward/aft freely but driver side wouldnt budge. even after trying to beat it rearward with a hammer. so i tried Hainz' way, which is to loosen the bolt on the A arm and then bang the torsion bar out but again it didnt budge. i even put a (non-pointed) punch on the bolt and went to town but nothing. in short, i wasnt able to reduce front ride height. i hope some of the gurus read this and can provide advice. Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 didnt end up messing with the front end suspension today (took a nap instead, doh!) these were on my doorstep this afternoon. they look so small! (pinto fronts) (dumb, joker pic) did go to home depot though to (finally) get a mallet, hopefully thatll help the anchor arm problem also: -6" vise, because every home mechanic should have one -and a hacksaw w/ blades that ill take to the u bolts of the lowering blocks & for whatever else. saw this Z in the parking lot of pep boys oooh, it was a really good example of a Z. didnt get to meet 'em. considered buying shorter bump stops @ pepboys but i think ill just end up trimming the current ones. thats it for t'day! Quote Link to comment
Lee R Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 didnt end up messing with the front end suspension today (took a nap instead, doh!) these were on my doorstep this afternoon. they look so small! (pinto fronts) Can you do a write up with pictures on the install? Not quite sure on the rubber trimming and or removing for the shocks! Thanks! Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 sure man, ill try my best! Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 pinto front shocks (the how to is up & complete) & 620 rears installed. replaced front bump stops with 11/16" bump stops. trimmed @ least half an inch from rear bump stops. fucked around (re-indexed) torsion arms. after all that, the truck is a wee bit lower and rides a lot better. idk if you guys can tell but she's a lil lower. after all this torsion bar, leaf spring, etc bullshit, ive come to the realization that i want to go coilovers. ALL AROUND. ill start with the front. slowly, surely. first step, i want to convert to ball joints (w drop spindles) and front discs at the same time. scored one of Bee's upper control arms today from dat521kid. next is a trip to the yard. 1 Quote Link to comment
Juan Valdez Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 I dig it the lower stance and wheels. Thanks for the Pinto write up too. I'm going to get started on this since my front shocks are toast. I also see that Z around Clairemont sometimes. Were you at the Pep Boys on Genesee? Quote Link to comment
Dawa Posted August 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 ^ yessir. im at that pepboys @ least once a week, hah Quote Link to comment
Spoona_Jay21 Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 dude, all i ave to say, is... THAT IS F**KING EPIC! that truck is beautiful, and definitely lookin to be comin along well. hope to see more of it! 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted August 29, 2012 Report Share Posted August 29, 2012 Those wheels are tits! Great looking truck :) Quote Link to comment
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