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Dawa's 73 620 build


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  • 4 weeks later...
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^ that would be ideal. a little lower than that even, if i can get by without scraping.

(p.s. i saw when you posted that but i didnt want to bump my thread without any updates.)

 

anyways, i took a little break from workin on my truck after i went crazy buying parts out of control. then i was in seattle for 9 days,

and now im focusing on repairing my sc300 and 240sx.

 

i finally got everything together for my front disc brake conversion, which ill probably accomplish this weekend, with an update and how to.

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  • 1 month later...

finally got the engine to hop sing's machine shop here in sd. they mic'ed the block and pistons and discovered that the bore is 20-22 over on stock sized pistons. regular pistons and a larger bore equates to piston slap, which i feel is what mightve led to the previous owner's misdiagnosis of "spun bearing"?

 

i say this because the crank was mic'ed and does not show evidence of a spun bearing.

 

i found .30 over l20 pistons on rock auto (beck/arnley brand, $19 each because theyre on closeout, bought 4 of 7!)

 

having the block decked, hot tanked, and head looked at as well. once the pistons get in theyll look at the rods.

 

im excited

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  • 4 weeks later...

the engine is complete, ready for me to pick it up from the machine shop.

 

EXHAUST:

lowering the truck 4.5"+ took it's toll on the exhaust.

the lowest part of the exhaust was where it was routed UNDER the rail that the anchor arms

for the torsion bars are located. at this location the exhaust was approximately 2.5" or so from the ground.

i had to take speed bump side ways which did help but it would sometimes still scrape.

eventually something has to give and the exhaust severed completey at the tail end of the ypipe (where 2 become one.)

i installed a few temp fixes over the months but finally brought it to Ed Hanson's muffler shop in spring valley.

 

Ed has been in the exhaust business for a long time. he teaches exhaust theory, knows his shit, etc etc

 

i mentioned that the least i wanna do is fix the 'leak' and at most i want to enlarge the y (from 1 5/8") and install a new exhaust.

he gave me a quote of $350 to replace the entire exhaust from the y back (w 2" aluminized pipe) & i told em to start work!

 

out with the out:

tumblr_me4b80ROQY1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

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enlarged y pipe mock up

tumblr_me8izbsYjV1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

 

and welded up:

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po2_1280.jpg

 

from y to trans mount

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po4_1280.jpg

 

 

now, for photos of the 2" exhaust going OVER the the rail that the anchor arms are located. i didnt think they could do it but they did!

so then i was afraid of metal to metal but there is none, so no added vibration or added heat transfer.

 

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po5_1280.jpg

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po7_1280.jpg

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po8_1280.jpg

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po9_1280.jpg

 

close up of one (ouf of 4) of the solid hangers.

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po6_1280.jpg

 

 

MUFFLER

the shop is awesome in that they route & weld the system up to where the muffler would go, then let you start up & rev the car while they hold

up different mufflers so you can get a feel for what your new ehxaust will sound like. truck previously had a glass pack style.

i wanted quiet, so i went with this one, well it turns out its TOO quiet! ill eventually go back and have em chop it off and add something just a tad quiet.

 

 

tumblr_me8jgqXZ2b1qe7x6po10_1280.jpg

 

as you can see in the photo of the hanger, the entire exhaust is ABOVE the frame. itll never scrape again!

 

i do feel that a 2" exhaust on an unmodded 1.6 is a bit much. i feel like ive lost high end ,specifically 4k to 5k

on the highway. which i know doesnt make since because the free'er flowing exhausts are supposed to help

out at high rpms.... it could be the lack of feedback from the exhaust since its too quiet (aka all in my head.)

it does seem to go from 1k-3k quick enough though (which again doesnt make sense because youd think i would

lose low end.)

 

 

but itll be perfect for when i drop in that 2.0.

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I like when you post reviews of local shops. It lights a fire under my ass to get out and work on my truck. The exhaust routing looks really clean, especially those hangers. I'm desperately needing an adjustment of my exhaust since the header flange sits on the bell housing and rattles like mo-fo. I also get RIDICULOUS amounts of heat transfer to my ass in the drivers compartment. I'm sweatin' like a whore in church if I do any extended driving.

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i do feel that a 2" exhaust on an unmodded 1.6 is a bit much. i feel like ive lost high end ,specifically 4k to 5k

on the highway. which i know doesnt make since because the free'er flowing exhausts are supposed to help

out at high rpms.... it could be the lack of feedback from the exhaust since its too quiet (aka all in my head.)

 

Very common for a car to seem slower with a quieter exhaust, and feel faster with a loud exhaust. B)

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I like when you post reviews of local shops. It lights a fire under my ass to get out and work on my truck. The exhaust routing looks really clean, especially those hangers. I'm desperately needing an adjustment of my exhaust since the header flange sits on the bell housing and rattles like mo-fo. I also get RIDICULOUS amounts of heat transfer to my ass in the drivers compartment. I'm sweatin' like a whore in church if I do any extended driving.

glad you like my reviews, i do it for the community.

as a quick fix for the header flange sitting on the bell housing i'd try to slide a piece of header wrap between them.

 

Very common for a car to seem slower with a quieter exhaust, and feel faster with a loud exhaust. B)

agreed, could all be psychological.

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so, picked up my block/head/crank from Hopsing's machine shop.

tumblr_mea3kiaclO1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

gasket set (by lazorlite, made in japan, $50)

tumblr_mea4211rSk1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

 

and the receipt

tumblr_mea40l1mX21qe7x6po1_500.jpg

you probably cant see it so ill break it down for you

 

 

parts

-4 new exh valves $20

-4 new int valves $20

-gasket set, L41-4620 $50

total $90

 

labor

-rebore, .75mm over

jet clean $100

bead blast

hot tank

valve job

surface $100

pressure test $ 25

polish crank $ 25

surface block $ 50

total $300

 

grand total of $400! i feel like this is a pretty good deal! but what do i know, it's my 1st rebuild.

maybe ill start assembly this weekend. still need a few parts.

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finally got the engine to hop sing's machine shop here in sd. they mic'ed the block and pistons and discovered that the bore is 20-22 over on stock sized pistons. regular pistons and a larger bore equates to piston slap, which i feel is what mightve led to the previous owner's misdiagnosis of "spun bearing"?

 

i say this because the crank was mic'ed and does not show evidence of a spun bearing.

 

i found .30 over l20 pistons on rock auto (beck/arnley brand, $19 each because theyre on closeout, bought 4 of 7!)

 

having the block decked, hot tanked, and head looked at as well. once the pistons get in theyll look at the rods.

 

im excited

Knew the motor wasn't stock the thing had balls! Reason why inthough it was the bearings was cause there was a large amount of rattle after i reved the motor high one night. checked the timing chain seemed fine and couldnt figure what else was wrong. had a friend look at it And saidnthat was it. Can't wait to see it running again. You coming out to the meet tonight?

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yeah man i hear ya, i woulda never thought that it was the pistons, i probably woulda thought it was knock as well.

so the meets are thursdays, i forgot what day aha. id like to make it out but not sure. ill make it out there in a few

weeks though

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i finally got my mooneyes floormats

tumblr_meqk4q3S4y1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

theyre kinda thin so i just put them atop the other mat i had in there, for now.

 

today i had to replace another starter (under warranty @ oreilly.)

the starters keep getting gunked up because of an oil leak, rear main seal im guessin.

 

sold the volk/rays wheels, so ill have a lil bit of $ coming in from that,

that way i can buy the lil parts for the engine rebuild and get her in soon.

 

currently on the back burner til the funds come up:

-king pin to ball joint upgrade w 2" drop spindles ♥♥♥

-front disc brakes

-leaf spring de-arc OR custom springs

 

also had my dude in japan look for some 17" 6 lugs wheels,

there just isnt as much selection for 16s as i had thought.

 

if i find a nice set of 17s ill slap em on 245/35s, which will only raise the height by .5" which is perfect!

(as well as fill in some fender gap .5" too)

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well my mutha fuckin ship has come in!

 

my military life insurance gave me $ for being traumatically injured (hospitalized for more than 15 days)

after i got run over by that semi.

 

looks like all my projects will be happnin sooner than later.

id but another vehicle but i already have 4, all in various states of disrepair.

now i can put money into all of them, woohoo.

ima throw at least half of it into savings for when im older and arthritic from my injuries.

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slowly pooling parts together :/

 

this is what an inbox fulla bearings looks like

tumblr_mf35061n4X1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

 

federal mogul main's, made in japan

tumblr_mf35061n4X1qe7x6po2_400.jpg

made in 2.85 (older than me!)

 

rods, clevite, also made in japan ♥

tumblr_mf35061n4X1qe7x6po3_400.jpg

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went out to my car sunday mornin to find this

tumblr_mf5dhl5Zdf1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

no note or nothin, 'cept for some other vehicle's white paint.

didnt see a white vehicle in the area and i was heading up to LA so all i could do was

get in the truck and drive.

 

while i was fillin up @ 76 i was lookin at her in dismay and wondered if i could push

the dent out from within. well, luckily, just like the hood, the fender metal is thin as hell

and it popped out real easy like. it's still noticeable if you scrutinize it,

you see the smaller 3 dents, those are sooomewhat still there.

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