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Dawa's 73 620 build


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havent been doin much, well i have i guess but i dont have much to show for it.

 

idk if ive mentioned it before but my plans for the 'paint' of the truck is to strip it down to bare metal

and then apply a sealer to prevent rust/oxidation.

bare metal:

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with rustoleum's clear enamel (for bare metal,etc) this was matte, which i think dulled the appearance too much, so ima get the 'gloss' instead.

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  • 3 weeks later...

not much to update, again.

had some bad bad bad vibration and noise, culprit:

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replaced ball joint.

 

Veruka came home today from Deep's garage (got tubed/tubbed)

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so she ^ will be getting the majority of my attention, not to mention she is consuming the garage.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

no "build" progress really...

most everything im doing is just to keep her on the road.

 

this is what a leaky rear main seal does to a starter

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(thats my 3rd or 4th. thank goodness for lifetime warranty @ oreilly)

 

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^time for a new alternator

 

went to my local auto electric shop. guy upgraded me to a mitsubishi 50amp (internally regulated)

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after installing that i yanked the voltage regulator

 

FIXED HORN/ S30 "wood grain" wheel

funny story. im driving down the highway and i hear a car horn. i assumed it was this taxi trying to merge. eventually i realized it was me.

my horn was randomly sounding, which was odd because my horn hadnt been workin the last few months. i found it really funny that

it would just randomly go off though.

 

the culprit:

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this little screw had come loose and thus was grounding (sounding) the horn. i had to reach in there and pull on the

screw for the rest or my drive to keep it from sounding.

 

well i had recently read that the s30 and 620 steering wheels had the same spline design/count and i have a few lying

around from my old 280z.

 

heres the back of my 620 wheel.

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and here is the s30 wheel installed. i looove it

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carb problems

 

i cant remember what i was doing but i somehow found out that my carb was loose. as in the nuts

that held it down on the studs were loose. as it turned out, the nuts and studs were mismatched!

wtf... this is a big theme with this truck, idk wtf was wrong with the P.O.

 

so i removed the carb, found out there was 2 different kinds of studs, replaced that so they were all matching

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reinstalled carb & tuned it.

 

was still running like shit.

turns out one of my carb plates is aluminum and i cracked it (doh!)

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luckily that was the old plate, & the new weber came with new plates. with a lot of searching i found the torque specs for

the fasteners and everything, and now the carb is finally good to go.

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blown head gasket...

 

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that puddle/water is actually from me releasing the pressure in the rad but soon after that i found this:


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never had a blown head gasket before. never expected to, either. after i found this, i pulled the head but then the truck sat

for quite a while, like over a month i think.

 

check out my water outlet

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idk wtf... but i cleaned that bitch out so its all good.

 

fouled plugs like a motha fucka

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i spy coolant in the cylindersss

 

i used the 'hose trick' to keep the timing chain from moving

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burnt valves

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(open a87 head)

 

i actually tried to remove the head with the manifolds insalled but you cant on an L16 because of the rigid crankcase

vent tube.

 

well what i was trying to avoid happened anyways

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broken exhaust stud.
this is actually why the truck sat for so long. i didnt want to use my NEW head on my old block, and i was lazy about extracting

that stud.

 

well i finally got the mind to extract the stud, via some easy outs i borrowed from work. upon closer inspection of the head

i realized something i overlooked before:

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yep, thats a chipped valve. cylinder 3 exhaust. i inspected as much of piston 3 as i could while maintaining cyl 1 @ tdc,

it looked good!???

 

new open a87 head

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old open a87 head

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interesting how the lettering is different, which one is actually older?

 

new head in! so pretty

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adjusted valve lash. they were all way too tight. it was hard as fuck to break the 17mm lock nuts.

my chinese wrench started to actually flex and wanted to strip the nut, so i had to break out the american wrench.

all good.

 

 

here are random photos of my ignition system, that i know nothing about

 

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this weekend i was supposed to tow my z32 to a rental shop so i can use the lift to drop the trans on my z32, but i lazied out.

 

i spent saturday being lazy AF.... and did something else but i forgot what it was....

 

well i removed the clamshell from my wheel, & im gonna mount the ignition switch up somewhere else.

i also removed all the 'foam' from my dash, so its all metal now like i wanted.

i got a free pressure washer that wasnt working, my neighbor is a small engine mechanic and he fixed it for me.

he says the problem is usually the carb. he showed me the old gas that was in there, it looked like syrup.

he fixed that shit for free so i bought him a 6 pack of pacifico.

 

heres the foam dash removal in progress. i took a wire wheel to it after, so it looks better.

 

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i ended up cracking the bezel or whatever the fuck trying to remove it so that it wouldnt be damaged.

so i just said fuck the bezel and kept rippin the pad/foam out willy nilly. ill probably do a custom bezel anyways.

might do a custom glove box now as well.

 

i also spent a lot of today partially rebuilding a pair of z32 brakes.

but then i got to thinkin about it and realized that i think theyre 30mm and not 26mm so i cant use them

for the disc brake conversion.

 

i do have a set of 26mm calipers that i was rebuilding but i couldnt get all the GD pistons out. now that i got an air compressor its easier to get em out though.

we'll see. if i can get those mofos out, ill have disc brakes by the end of the week.

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  • 5 weeks later...

soo, ive mentioned  in some other threads how i want to have some sort of duct that allows cooler, outside

air into the engine bay and to the carb....

well after meeting up with the bro Radim, turns out he already did exactly that.

i thought there would be more fabbing but turns out there is already an inexpensive air horn "headlight air funnel"

on the market, provided by Spectre (part number 9789.)

 

it was cheapest on autoplicity.com, btw

 

so here it is installed.

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i really like the look. it gives the truck

and it is definitely an improvement in throttle response, i shit you not. especially for my lil 1.6

for now its just the funnel, i still need to come up with the ducting and an enclosure for the carb

 

the only downside is now that a hole Radim thinks im bitin his steez, fuck that guy!

jk :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Those brakes look goo on there. :cool:

 

thanks Redeye! i want you to know i JUST finished up goin through all the pages of your build thread last nightand i gotta say idk how are why i didnt sooner. i guess its cuz the photo in your sig doesnt do your truck any justice and didnt spark my interest. after goin through your thread youre definitely one of my top 5 favorite 620s on the forum.

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  • 3 weeks later...

ive been lookin for 17s for a while, for better tire selection and for more wheel/less rubber.

but the offsets always  suck

my current size and offset is 16x8.5 -10

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i finally found a pair of 17s with low offset (17x8 0 offset)

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these are weds madsteins. 

my contact in Japan went MIA so i had to use someone else. 

problem with that is now i have to pay a lot more for shipping and wait a lot longer for parts to

arrive via ship rather than on a plane (6-9 weeks.)

 

so ill be selling my old wheels soon. with socaldatsun having first dibs, since he's local and since

he hooked me up with my L20.

 

3847

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upon closer inspection of the head

i realized something i overlooked before:

 

yep, thats a chipped valve. cylinder 3 exhaust. i inspected as much of piston 3 as i could while maintaining cyl 1 @ tdc,

it looked good!???

 

 

 

In case you didn't figure it out already, I'd bet that's not a chipped valve. It's most likely a "burnt" valve. Usually a result of the lash being set improperly. 

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In case you didn't figure it out already, I'd bet that's not a chipped valve. It's most likely a "burnt" valve. Usually a result of the lash being set improperly. 

ooh, no i hadnt figured it out. i never looked into the actual definition but just assumed that it was an accumulation of carbon...

i stand informed :)

 

3898 june 9

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  • 1 month later...

not much to update. had my z broken into & been takin care of that. 

got that up & runnin so now its my DD. 

 

not much new with the truck. went to a lil bbq in oc last weekend with ruckycharms, radim & a few others.

went on a nice lil cruise.

 

whenever i go on those meets it reminds me just how high up my truck is and how i need to to do somethin bout it.

 

also got peer pressured in to registering for JCCS. man i dont know if i ever woulda attended JCCS much less than

registering but now i feel the heat to do work to my truck.

 

went to the yard today & pulled front shackles from a d21/hardbody & rear shackles from a 720.

 

i gotta tell yall, the d21 & 720 front & rear shackles look damn near identical. 

 

anyway, gonna order bushings for the new shackles and finally install those 720 4x4 springs. should drop me at least

an inch, hopin for 1.5" ill let yall know how that goes. 

 

also, still waitin for my 17s from japan. takes approx 6-9 weeks and this is week 6. ill be excited to get those 

and ill be sellin my hawser mesh wheels. got quite a few people interested in em but money talks

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^ that would be ideal. that is a photo with the torsion bar arm bolts completely removed....

 

however, and you cant really tell in this photo, but the actual height for now has the front fenders sittin

at 24ish inches, and the rears lower at 23ish

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i need longer torsion arm bolts... also, i couldnt reindex the bars/arms this time around because my 

current exhaust set up wouldnt let me pull the arm out all the way...

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  • 3 weeks later...

This thread is full of win! I replaced a head gasket after seeing your post about using a piece of hose as a chain holder also ordered the same headlight funnel, looks sexy on your 620 :thumbup:

awesome! it always makes me happy if i can help someone out. 

 

and i appreciate your kind words. 

 

ok so (small) updates include:

replacing the 2 short alternator bolts for 1 long one, 

replacing the torsion bar anchor arm bolts with longer ones, to go lower,

and i finally completed my battery relocation. 

 

i was at SWDP this past weekend (check out the photos)

but couldnt get my car running in time...

but i will be at JCCS, and have a lot of work that i want to do including:

stripping the entire front of the truck, and properly prepping it for clear coat

retrofitting my champion (ae) radiator to actually fit,

and getting a vote of what wheels to run. isnt there somewhere on ratsun where i can create a poll?

 

anyways, should i run my mesh hawser 16x8.5 -10s

 

 

 

OR!!!

 

my weds 17x8 +0s?

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