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Dawa's 73 620 build


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wheels:

received both the rays/volks and hawsers from japan. stock open ended acorn lugnuts (21mm O.D.) are too big to fit into either wheel.

got 24 open ended bulge acorn lugnuts (19mm O.D.) @ discount tire for about $1 a piece. ill probably have to get extended studs but

before that ive just been looking for some wider yet smaller sidewall tires for either set of wheels. ill also probably need spacers. here

are some photos of test fits, they might be kinda big, sorry:

 

15 Rays/volks

tumblr_m8oitcmeJc1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

tumblr_m81m8fqKPs1qe7x6po1_1280.jpg

 

 

16 hawsers

tumblr_m8ogsxuo9T1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

tumblr_m8ogqfpD9q1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

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inner clearance of hawser wheels @ full lock

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po1_1280.jpg

 

 

now some general photos for reference purposes:

 

the initial thread that started it all http://community.ratsun.net/topic/46137-new-wheels-but-questions-about-wheel-studs/

 

the wheel studs that were installed in my truck

overall length: 44mm

head: 5mm

underhead length: 38mm

knurl length: 7mm

total shoulder length: 14mm

total threaded portion length: 22mm

 

hub thickness:

-front approx 6.5mm

-rear approx 8mm

(seems the rear hub is thicker than the front? according to my measurements..)

drum thickness: approx 6.5mm

 

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po2_1280.jpg

(overall length of 44mm)

 

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po3_1280.jpg

underhead length approx 38mm

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longer studs came in!

Moser part number 8255

m12-1.5x2.5in

knurl diameter: .505in (12.83mm)

knurl length:

underhead length: 2.5in (63.5mm)

 

$22 for 10 @ summit! after extensive research, these were the best stud to go with. you cant use any other dorman, they arent long enough.

arps etc are more expensive. i chose these specifically because of the matching knurl diameter, (AND length/price, of course.)

 

grand total of $71 for 30, to my door

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po4_1280.jpg

 

i thought the box was super light, i guess its lack of packing

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po5_1280.jpg

 

new studs installed in hub

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po7_1280.jpg

i made the mistake of removing the hub before studs on this one. very messy results. for the next ones ill pound the studs out and then remove

the hub to install new studs

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po8_1280.jpg

 

length left with shoes installed (2 7/8")

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po9_1280.jpg

 

length left with (old) wheel & nuts installed (1.5in)

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po10_1280.jpg

the new wheels will reduce about 8 or 9mm from the above photo. theyll be more than enough stud left if i have to add spacers to clear disc brake conversion.

 

 

after spending a few days on craigslist lookin for used tires, a few days online, etc i finally found my tires! and for super cheap

i might add! THE cheapest 215/40/16 i could find. i really wanted 225, 235s or higher but my goal was to lose an inch of height

via sidewall reduction so 35 or 40 series in those sizes are either non existent or too expensive for me

tumblr_m8xrvc89CQ1qe7x6po6_1280.jpg

 

old vs new comparison

tumblr_m8xsq7psDk1qe7x6po1_500.png(didnt are to plug in offsets)

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i spent saturday trying to find a shop that would 'stretch' a 215 onto my 8.5s. the major shops dont want to do it.

a friend of mine said "Pann" would do it, so i called them up and they said yes but not til monday cuz they were busy with a meet/sale/raffle.

so i googled 'stretched tire san diego' or something like that and a few different results suggested Bear's tires in miramar.

i called em up and they said they can do it. long story short they got the job done and that is an awesome shop, i recommend them to anyone.

here's my truck waiting along with another customer

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po1_1280.jpg

 

as i was leaving, this guy named Rus(s?) rolled up in a slammed/rolled-fender toyota tacoma trying to see if the guys could stretch some tires for him:

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po2_1280.jpg

those are 18x10 varrstoens. i think the tire size was 205 or around there.

 

he was rolling on ssr sp1s (one of my favorites) 16x9.5 i think?

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po3_1280.jpg

 

bed fulla new set up

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po4_1280.jpg

 

well, enough stalling. guys, i HATE how the truck looks now. i went WAAY too small on the tires:

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po5_1280.jpg

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po6_1280.jpg

 

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po7_1280.jpg

 

only about 2.5" of clearance in the rear, now.

tumblr_m918txFg1J1qe7x6po8_1280.jpg

 

the only good thing about the wheel/tire size reduction is she definitely scoots a bit more

 

so my plans to fix this are:

-lower the front at least 1" via torsion bar index (they havent been indexed at all yet, actually, only adjusted @ the anchor bolt.)

-i have a pair of 245/50/16s that im going to put on the rear tomorrow.

this will not raise it HIGHER than stock to give extra ground clearance (stock dia: 25.5", 255 dia:25.7")

but also get rid of some of that rear fender gap.

THEN ill install 4" blocks in the rear. (that i have to buy. probably bell techs w the slant)

 

-ordered KYB GR-2s (part number 344046) for the rear last night and will order gr-2 pinto shocks for the front.

eventually gonna raise the front upper mount.

 

also finally ordered a temp gauge from autoplicity.com (best prices online!)

autometer Z series (part number 2607)

atm-2607.jpg

it took me a while to figure out exactly which gauge to go with but i chose this one because its:

-analog

-mechanical

-similar to stock appearance

-comes w/ capillary tube

- 2 1/16" (vs 2 5/8")

- 120 to 240 degree range (280 is needlessly too high) w/ 270 degrees of sweep!

i really searched hard to find an autometer gauge for under $50 but couldnt do it.

-i wouldve liked a 60-210 degrees but those are over $100!

 

-voltmeter and oil pressure gauges are next.

also in the market for outside micrometers for the L20 rebuild.

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eh im not much of a 'stretched' kinda guy. i'd run 285s in the rear if i could afford it and had the power to back it up

 

and ive received absolutely no contact from potential buyers so those wheels might still be around if you ever

come up with some $$

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They look a little small, but it would look fine if the truck was slammed and not just a little low. The wheel/tire combo looks fine, its just the gap that looks stupid.

 

i agree with and already said all of that (just in a nicer way :) ) the only thing keeping me from lowering the rear more is the lack of ground clearance.

 

I want those wheels. they're called hawsers?

 

yep hawers is the company name i guess. not sure of the exact model name. the center cap says 'hawser italy' but they have 'made in japan' stamped on them.

 

or ill just sell them to you for 900

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tumblr_m94adx9BAe1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

 

im liking the look of the truck a little more. im not sure if it's because the suspension settled a little,

or if it's just growing on me. also, this photo is somewhat deceptive because of the shadow

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alright so got my magnetic oil drain plug in (i know, nothing special but i was waitin on it to change my oil)

tumblr_m95441DthP1qe7x6po1_500.jpg(can you guess my oil preference?)

also got my blocks in, which was super quick.

tried to re-index the torsion bars. removed both snap rings, and was able to re-index the passenger side but

when i got around to the driver side i couldnt remove the 'anchor arm' (claw looking thing.) passenger side

anchor arm moved forward/aft freely but driver side wouldnt budge. even after trying to beat it rearward

with a hammer. so i tried Hainz' way, which is to loosen the bolt on the A arm and then bang the torsion bar

out but again it didnt budge. i even put a (non-pointed) punch on the bolt and went to town but nothing.

 

in short, i wasnt able to reduce front ride height. i hope some of the gurus read this and can provide advice.

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didnt end up messing with the front end suspension today (took a nap instead, doh!)

 

these were on my doorstep this afternoon. they look so small! (pinto fronts)

tumblr_m96u08veKs1qe7x6po3_1280.jpg

 

(dumb, joker pic)

tumblr_m96u9sLc1r1qe7x6po1_500.jpg

 

did go to home depot though to (finally) get a mallet, hopefully thatll help the anchor arm problem

tumblr_m96u08veKs1qe7x6po2_1280.jpg

also:

-6" vise, because every home mechanic should have one

-and a hacksaw w/ blades that ill take to the u bolts of the lowering blocks & for whatever else.

 

saw this Z in the parking lot of pep boys

tumblr_m96u08veKs1qe7x6po1_1280.jpg

oooh, it was a really good example of a Z. didnt get to meet 'em.

 

considered buying shorter bump stops @ pepboys but i think ill just end up trimming the current ones.

 

thats it for t'day!

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didnt end up messing with the front end suspension today (took a nap instead, doh!)

 

these were on my doorstep this afternoon. they look so small! (pinto fronts)

tumblr_m96u08veKs1qe7x6po3_1280.jpg

 

 

Can you do a write up with pictures on the install? Not quite sure on the rubber trimming and or removing for the shocks! Thanks!
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pinto front shocks (the how to is up & complete) & 620 rears installed.

replaced front bump stops with 11/16" bump stops.

trimmed @ least half an inch from rear bump stops.

fucked around (re-indexed) torsion arms.

after all that, the truck is a wee bit lower and rides a lot better.

tumblr_m9e7w3Fak51qe7x6po1_500.jpg

idk if you guys can tell but she's a lil lower.

 

after all this torsion bar, leaf spring, etc bullshit, ive come to the realization that i want to go

coilovers. ALL AROUND. ill start with the front. slowly, surely.

first step, i want to convert to ball joints (w drop spindles) and front discs at the same time.

scored one of Bee's upper control arms today from dat521kid. next is a trip to the yard.

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