68Datsun510 Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Been having an issue with noisy springs lately, i have springs that are nearly identical dimension-wise to stock in the rear but made by Eibach and are approx 225#/in. Despite several attempts to "clock" them in the rear arms, i get a near constant banging noise from them, it sounds like something is hammering the springs, when i check out the area in the arm where the spring sits, i can see bare worn metal on the bump stop metal "base". Is it normal to remove/replace bumpstops in the rear with something different? Has anyone else experienced this? Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 need to come by and have me make you a set of rear coils lol problem solved Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 #225 is way too soft for the rear springs on a 510, unless you've converted to coilovers? Likely they are not correct and are unloading, or compression enough to deaden too many coils and "sproing." Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 225# at the WHEEL lol, my bad. They are 900ish# springs. Car definitely isnt bottoming out, the coil seems to be "sproinging" against the bumpstop. Skibby, i'd love coilovers, but the carbs were hard enough to afford :/ My bank account has been shot with a fuggin tommygun lately =( No fun shit either. No worries, still gettin paid at the meet. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 The rear control arms are a 3.8 to one ratio so a 900 spring is felt as a 236 lb spring..... you could go stiffer. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted June 28, 2012 Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Skibby, i'd love coilovers, but the carbs were hard enough to afford :/ My bank account has been shot with a fuggin tommygun lately =( No fun shit either. No worries, still gettin paid at the meet. well talk coils at the meet man, see about gettin ya hooked up 1 Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 I have one more experiment to try first, bump stop removal. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted June 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2012 Im thinking that because i have a Datsport rear crossmember, the realigning of the arms has taken the bump stop out of direct alignment with the "snubber" of sorts on the body side, so the spring is now slightly out of alignment, and is "strumming" the steel base of the bump stop. Pretty sure this will fix it! No steel lip to hit anything. Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 ^^ Makes sense. 1 Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 I would recommend just totally removing them. I haven't run bumpstops in the rear of my car for years and I have never had a problem. The rear control arm hits the body before anything else hits (at leas on my car) and at that point the suspension is very compressed. With stiff spring rates you will pretty much never compress the suspension that much (unless you like jumps). Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 I would recommend just totally removing them. I haven't run bumpstops in the rear of my car for years and I have never had a problem. The rear control arm hits the body before anything else hits (at leas on my car) and at that point the suspension is very compressed. With stiff spring rates you will pretty much never compress the suspension that much (unless you like jumps). Hitting a bump stop is much better than hitting the control arm against the body... if for some reason you end up compressing the rear of the car enough to do that, you're gonna wish you had those bump stops... there's no reason to totally remove bump stops. Quote Link to comment
Boaty Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 I think you'd end up dragging differential before that happens, no? I mean, I don't have the grooves in the bottom of my LSD from nothing lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 What up Duke! I swapped em out for ES ones, guess what! BANG BANG! Turned the springs 180 degrees, now only one bang on driver side... So effin weird.. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Boaty has been matched! Quote Link to comment
Uber Deaf One Posted July 10, 2012 Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Im thinking that because i have a Datsport rear crossmember, the realigning of the arms has taken the bump stop out of direct alignment with the "snubber" of sorts on the body side, so the spring is now slightly out of alignment, and is "strumming" the steel base of the bump stop. Pretty sure this will fix it! No steel lip to hit anything. This makes the most sense... in this situation I would probably just remove the bump stops... Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 What up Duke! I swapped em out for ES ones, guess what! BANG BANG! Turned the springs 180 degrees, now only one bang on driver side... So effin weird.. Turned them 180*? So they aren't fully seated? I think I remember seeing in your build that you are running cut 3" id Eibach springs. I noticed that when I did this conversion that the spring didn't really seat well into the control arm. I ended up grinding a bit of a flat in the spring to get it to seat better. I don't know if it really helped, but may be something to think about in your case. Also, I don't know what kind of shocks you are running, but you could possibly install bumpstops on the shock shafts if you really feel the need for them. Quote Link to comment
The Dat-side Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Isn't there two areas for the springs to "seat" across from each other? Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted July 14, 2012 Report Share Posted July 14, 2012 Isn't there two areas for the springs to "seat" across from each other? No, there is just 1. There are 2 holes in the spring seat (likely to avoid debris buildup) but if you look at the seat there is an area that drops down so t that the spring "pigtail" fits into it. Quote Link to comment
Ratwagon1600 Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 At the risk of asking a stupid question, have you fitted the rubber hat that goes on top of the spring? I'm only wondering as long ago I forgot to do this, and the spring(s) banged against the floor. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I think Duke nailed it, imperfect fit from eibach springs. I had them "seated" in the wrong holes at first, huge improvement when i got them back in the right spot. Upper hats are poly units from Racetep, seated, yes ;) Quote Link to comment
The Dat-side Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 How do you like the racetep ones? I don't really want to raise my car, if anything I want the rear lower. So I wasn't going to bother with the top hats. Would there be any other reason to get them? Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 We are only referring to the rubber isolator between the spring and body in the rear. You DO want them. Otherwise they will conduct all the noise and NVH directly to the body. Racetep offers 2 heights, stock, and +1/2". Your car should already have the stock rubber ones. So, unless they are broken/rotten, no need to replace em. That being said, i have the + 1/2" ones, i like em. Quote Link to comment
The Dat-side Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 Thanks. I read that the stock ones compress overtime and cause the rear to sag. Quote Link to comment
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