Timing chain tensioner broken. HELP

[Steroid]

I've been working on Wasserman's Wonder and just got the brakes done....... now ready to drive but different sounding and performance than when I bought it a few months ago. Pulled valve cover and discovered a broken timing chain tensoiner (the outside one). Now, My mechanic wants to fully pull the head to remove the front engine cover and I am thinking that it might be easier to remove the oilpan and steering crossmember and then carefully remove the front cover that way. Yes, We know that the head gasket will be a little bit attached to the front cover, but......... Do We HAVE to do this by pulling the head? I'm opting for the easiest way possable. HELP!!!

[datzenmike]

Go for it. The head gasket in that area only has to seal in some minor oil mist. Just goop some sealer on it like the pan gasket. Degrease the surfaces nice and clean first. Remove the water pump, there is a bolt that goes through into the block. I didn't do this and learned a hard lesson.

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Mike the head should'nt have to be removed to fix the problem. Remove the radiator, water pump, oil pump, crank pulley, then the 10 or so 10mm bolts holding the front cover on. There are 2 on top also. Watch the 1st part of the Hainz vid & youll see how to do it....

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223?

Also make sure the timing chain stays put & doesnt jump a tooth.

 

[Steroid]

OK, Thanks!!! I just watched the first 17 minutes and it really shows what I have to change. Thank You Mark, and thank You Hainz for the vid!! What broke was the "tight side guide". Now, what caused that to happen? Did the motor over rev putting stress on the guide? Did it for years have a hairline crack and just finally gave out? Or is there a more serious issue that I should know about? I'll get on it this week. Thanks again!!!

[Pacific coast Datsun]

Mike more than likely it broke because of the parts age. Did you make any progress today after i called you?

[Phlebmaster]

I had a problem with my tensioner and it turned out to be that my chain was really really streched!!:eek: My chain tensioner was almost to the point of pulling out.

 

 

I did not have remouve my head to get the front cover off.

 

Atom came over and was a BIG help!! Thanks man!!:cool:

[banzai510(hainz)]

Help Atom

hes having proplems linning up his chain timming.

 

also use the correct hole when doing the slack side so you get all the slop out and tensioner is butted to the tensioner housing

[Phlebmaster]

:DI would be happy to help Atom anytime

[Steroid]

Hi Mark/Guys.............. No, I haven't started the tradeout yet. I forgot to ask if the L18 tensioner is the same as an L20. Wasserman's Wonder is a 1974 and the tensioner I have is off of an L20.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Tesioners are the same.

only difference between the set is the L20 chain is longer otherwise all L16/18/24/26/28 sets are the same.

 

the plastic washer is inbetween the housing the the shoe(click on photo)

this part you have to be good and compress spring and bolt up the tensioner housing, so it doesnt go FLYING in the dirt!!!!!

[LCDC]

If the motor is in the vehicle, can you leave the oil pan on yet loosened up to get the timing cover off? I loaned my book out, so was was thinking I would have to take the head off. Glad I found this post. And can I use an L18 timing cover on an L16?

[LCDC]

Got 'er done. Thanks hainz for the video. Came in handy since I loaned my book out.

[PEZi720]

LCDC... i just got your PM about this and now that i read this i know what you meant

 

although your question has now been answered

 

i have a question for whoever can help me as well... my chain has some rattle on start up when its really cold out... and just a faint sound of rattle (that you honestly have to listen very close to hear over the exhaust) when i'm going uphill

 

my question is how long do i have before it NEEDS to be replaced? obviously NOW is ideal but i don't really have the time... or a garage. my truck is my only ride and i need it daily for work and school so if the replacement goes over a day's work for any reason i'm screwed. come late may early june i will be able to use a garage and not have to worry about the timeline of the replacement so i'm hoping i can hold off till then... does anyone think this is ok?

Edited April 13, 2009 by PEZi720

[defdes]

Change holes on the sprocket to 2 or 3, if there is that much stretch, chances are your timing is off too.

[datzenmike]

LCDC... i just got your PM about this and now that i read this i know what you meant

 

although your question has now been answered

 

i have a question for whoever can help me as well... my chain has some rattle on start up when its really cold out... and just a faint sound of rattle (that you honestly have to listen very close to hear over the exhaust) when i'm going uphill

 

my question is how long do i have before it NEEDS to be replaced? obviously NOW is ideal but i don't really have the time... or a garage. my truck is my only ride and i need it daily for work and school so if the replacement goes over a day's work for any reason i'm screwed. come late may early june i will be able to use a garage and not have to worry about the timeline of the replacement so i'm hoping i can hold off till then... does anyone think this is ok?

 

If you haven't changed your oil and filter lately, do so. At the least make sure it's topped up. I've talked to 720 owners who say this is how a 720 tells you it's time to change the oil. :D Start rattle is just low oil pressure, once it comes up it helps push out on the tensioner. Running rattle could be low oil which runs hotter (thinner) or just needs changing. Summer is coming so you could probably run a higher viscosity oil till you replace the tensioner.

 

One other thing to boost idle oil pressure is to go to the junk yard and find a D-21 hardbody with a Z24i OR any rear wheel drive KA24E (D-21 or 240sx) or truck KA24DE and grab the hi volume oil pump. It will fit ANY Z or L series 4 or 6 cyl motor. All you need is a 12mm wrench and a few minutes. I can't stress enough how much of a difference this simple cheap swap is. I put a used KA oil pump on my tired 300,000km L20B and the hot idle oil pressure jumped from 17lb to 29lb. Only $10! Don't let them charge you too much... tell them 'what happens if my motor seizes up because of your oil pump? You going to replace the motor???' They'll say '$10 and get the fuck out of here.' Works every time.

Edited April 13, 2009 by datzenmike

[hang_510]

before it NEEDS to be replaced? obviously NOW is ideal but i don't really have the time... or a garage. my truck is my only ride and i need it daily for work and school so if the replacement goes over a day's work for any reason i'm screwed. come late may early june i will be able to use a garage and not have to worry about the timeline of the replacement so i'm hoping i can hold off till then...

 

does anyone think this is ok?

 

:sneaky: im probably the only one :lol:

i drove ~60K mi w/the tensioner in the oil pan. never skipped a tooth.

it was a mess when i finally got to it. all the components were trashed. the chain wore throught the oiler, but it ran fine... until the HG failed. :blink:

 

its a few hours job w/parts in hand

[PEZi720]

awsome... thanks for the input

 

i actually overchange my oil if anything so it isn't that but it's good to know i can run another month or two!

[LCDC]

I get that rattle on start up and going up hill in my KC as well. thanks Datzen Mike for the tip on the oil pump. I'll have to try that.

[datzenmike]

Make sure you set to TDC in case the drive spindle falls out. Then it's easier to re-set back to the proper timing. (11:28) I got so excited I put mine in, in the wrecking yard driveway, (why make a mess at home?) and the friggin' spindle fell out! Spent ten minutes pissing around, finally calmed down and followed the Hainz mantra for setting TDC and finally it fires up and I went home.

[HRH]

Make sure you put blue loctite on the bolts that hold the chain tensioner to the block, and ramp the chain guides correctly so there aren't any abrupt slack points. Usually requires slightly dremeling out new chain guide bolt holes, or at least it has for every one I've ever gotten.