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1973 620 - yellow turd


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What I learned today, edit your photos pre-upload.
And please don't make fun of my archaic camera, it was a gift :P Photos are taken with a Canon PowerShot SD450 and my HTC Desire w GingerVillain ROM

So I started some work on Kiiro the other day, just some simple work because I didn't want to be stuck at my garage for the night. I ended up changing the T-stat, as running temperatures were low and passenger heat was something to laugh at. Also mounted my little nerf bumper bar, and painted my air dam, valance and wiper arms. My camera use was next to NILL as this whole logging and keeping track of stuff is new to me, I kind of get into a zone and just go. But they will be good enough for now.

SO to recap: Changed T-Stat, polished housing, mounted bumper, painted wipers/valance/air dam, oh and fixed that kinked ass water line.

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Now that I was on a roll I ordered some more parts and went back in the following night. Last night was the carrier bearing change. When I had Kiiro on the lift I noticed the rubber was, well... not there. Which lead to my drive shaft rotating on the support for my carrier bearing. It was loud and horrible!! So up he went and the fun began. Getting better-off with taking pictures. :P

I also decided to check the brake conditions, as my pedal travel is right to the firewall. My pads are done and my front adjusters are rusted shut because there were no dust boots on them :/ So anyone know where to get drum parts from? Popular auto stores? Or Online? I am just going to blast though these pictures, not much happened, just cleaned out the dust and wiped everything down.


One dirty tunnel. Question, if I tighten down my torsion bolts (pictured) will that stiffen up the front more? Its like driving a marshmallow right now.

Getting the shaft out and split was the easy part. This is what I was dreading. Thank VTEC I had a big enough socket and impact gun handy. Oh and say "Hi" to Jessica lounging out on the couch.

I got all carried away with getting the flange off and all that I didn't snap photos. I'm sorry. But it all went together great, some hammering and persuasion and it popped off EASY! As for the install it was even easier, I have a freezing spray and I shot the end of the drive shaft with the clod stuff for a good 2min. Made it contract and the new bearing slipped on with room. I would recommend picking up some for your job. My was Aircraft gum remover lol.

I also saw on the forums that some of you have spaced out the bearing, so I did just that. I had some 1" x 3" square stock and I cut and drilled a spacer right quick. As for the hardware I had some lying around. There were also 14mm bolts and nuts, so if/when someone has to go back in there it will all be the same. :)

It all went together awesome, I would say to do a more precice mark on the driveshaft then just "bottom". Lucky for me I was smart enough to have the e-brake on AND the transmission in gear. That way nothing rotated and it all went back together the way it came out. I havent hit the highway but going around town it was quiet and smooth. No vibrations on wobble!! Go team Ratsun!! Now for some garage porn and Ratsun.net support!!

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So inspection day...

Failed, lol. As I figured as much, but now I have a list of what needs to be changed!!

Horn should be replaced, does not blow loudly
Turn signals do not cancel
Speedometer does not work
Passenger king pin has play - at least 1/4"
Needs all front radius arm bushings
Needs all brakes adjusted - pedal travel excessive
Needs headlights adjusted
Rear leaf bushings are bad
Some play in passenger tie rod end (no tail but noted)
Steering wheel needs replaced with factory wheel
lowered (3" blocks will slide, but 4" blocks is a fail)

Buy some rally horns??
Signals and wheel can be fixed with a factory wheel.
Buy a speedocable, maybe upgrade to some Mooneye gauges :D
Guess I need a king pin kit?
Do a Energy Suspension upgrade sooner than I wanted. :/
Adjusting the headlights and brakes is an easy task for me.
4x4 leafs?

Oh well. At least this guy looked at my truck and told me the issues.

SO from you guys I am wondering if anyone is selling any 4x4 leafs? That'll fix two problems for me there. Or if anyone has a steering wheel kicking around?

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Is it the lowering height thats the issue up there, or they dont like using blocks? Im just wondering that once you pass and make it road worthy, can you then go back and keep it slammed of even go farther (if thats your thing). Sorry to hear you failed, but like you said: at least you now know what you have to fix to get it there.

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Is it the lowering height thats the issue up there, or they dont like using blocks? Im just wondering that once you pass and make it road worthy, can you then go back and keep it slammed of even go farther (if thats your thing). Sorry to hear you failed, but like you said: at least you now know what you have to fix to get it there.

 

Well, you cant have blocks more than 3", its unsafe. Get longer or more aggressively curved springs (for lifted trucks) or whatever to lower it, or go to bags.

My 93 Toyota was lifted, I just had to keep my headlights below 45" and "the lowest part of the bumper" must not exceed 33" now I had a "V" bumper whereas the middle was under the 33" but it rose to 40" at the tips. Basically if I hit a pedestrian head on they would "technically" be ok, but if it was at the edge of the truck they would just go into the wheels...

As for lowering, the lowest part of the vehicle cannot be below the bottom of the rims edge.

 

Now as for vehicle inspections, and this is why I am fucked, you can have your car inspected, passed and drive but if Officer Cock doesn't like your stance, or thinks your a "little too low" he can give you an notice for a VI. Now you can "make it legal" go in, pass and drive but if Officer Cock is out again the system repeats. My tires on my lifted Toyota stuck out past my fenders by a good 2", I would put on my tiny winter tires, pass and go on my way. I would only get busted in Kelowna where they were trying to crack down on lifted trucks (12" lifted diesels on 44" swampers etc)

Here in Vancouver its the taxi cabs, one would get in a fender bender, they would take parts off the good taxi, send it for inspection, but then swap the parts back. So whats happening is the government has clued in, and its going after shops and closing them down. Now the shops have to document and be very strict... mind you I could maaaaaybe try and go to some hick town and trrrying to barter for a pas but I still need to go through Canadian Tire and they fail everything, so I hear...

 

Its a fucked system, I was talking to a shop (in Kelowna) and they had a kid come in every Monday after a weekend of ricer tuner fury with a VI, he would make it "stock" and throw his neon back on and BAM back in for a VI. At $100 an inspection you think the kid would have sold the car...

 

As you said I am glad to know what I need to fix up front. Im not worried, Kiiro is more a project vehicle anyways. :)

 

Thanks guys for the input and support!

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So anyone paying attention to this forum I am hoping you can help me out. I am going to try and tackle my king pins (and the rest of my issues) next week so I am part shopping right now.

 

I have a King Pin kit

 

Speedo cable

 

Stabilizer bar bushings part

 

Stabilizer bar end links

 

Left tie rod

 

Right tie rod

 

Datsun rear shocks part

 

Ford pinto front shocks

 

 

I need brake adjusters but my website is only saying the rears (a RH and a LH) but only the rears. Are the fronts and rears built up the same? Is there anything different from the front to the rear?

Also wondering about control arm bushings, I guess while I am in there I should be changing these too? There is just a front lower inner and a front upper outer? Nothing for the rear? Sorry, havent really had a look under the truck and arent sure what I need to be replacing.

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One dirty tunnel. Question, if I tighten down my torsion bolts (pictured) will that stiffen up the front more? Its like driving a marshmallow right now.

 

6863713696_a6b1c0a8f3_c.jpg

Datsun 620 017 by NickedKnuckles, on Flickr

 

 

I believe your "marshmallowness" would be the shocks. Torsion bolts would only raise or lower the front end. Someone else might chime in on this.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so my part hoarding is growing. I am just missing a few parts for the front-end overhaul. Its a slow process, so I am doing other things in the mean time.

Wired up the stock stereo, seeing as it was in my dash I might as well use it right?? I have Sirius so I only really need a stock one. Nnnwaddaya know, it worked, great actually. Just need to get some speakers for the kick panels.

Some questions I have about the radio;
A) There are only two wires coming out (a blue and a blue/white) is the stock deck mono, I only had one speaker hole open on the kicker panels, the other had the factory cardboard covering it... When I was testing it I put both those wires to the speaker terminals and it worked, however, the idea that this radio was mono seem ridiculous to me and in fact each wire is a power, and uses the body as ground? Also which wire is considered the power and which the ground?

Hooked up my cigarette lighter, however no power inside the lighter it self. My test light turns on and my phone charger gets its green "go" light, so one can assume the lighter itself is pooched because I am getting 12v (I hope, I don't have a multimeter)

Changed the bulb inside the fibre-optic illumination housing, although I can only guess it still sucks.

Scraped out some dirt, fibres and bad undercoating off the passenger floor. Decided I had too much skin on my right thumb so I took a chunk off that too, guess that's why I'm @nickedknuckles.

Ok now for what I am most excited about!! Overhauled the heater assembly, kinda. Cleaned, new foam, working step-down resistor, some firewall grommets are coming, maaaaybe some new hoses? Was thinking about overhauling the mixing valve, but it doesn't leak, opinions? And added a screen to try and collect debris that falls into the box, out of an old speaker grille.

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Thats what I though, as the driver side cardboard was untouched. Well what I ended up doing was taking the mono wires and just splitting the signal, so now its dual mono haha. I wonder how long I'll get without L to R panning.Will the stock deck have enough power to run two newer 4 1/2" speakers? I dont need crazy sound, just some radio from time to time but I dont want to blow my stock deck.

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