willz Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 The problem is at one point I took a sawzall and cut that lower panel off, which screwed up the whole thing and left huge gaps all over. It was the only way I could fill it without making a patch panel. Some sections were a 1/2" gap between the two pieces. I'll end up taking the fender off and making sure everything is perfect on both sides. Luckily the passenger side wasn't cut off, so I'll clean it up and weld it up all nice and clean without the hideous mess this is. I'll be welding up the seams on the bed as well and any other panels. I want the truck nice and smooth Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 I hear you there.... I've had spots like that too... whatever it takes right.... Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Pretty much, kinda sucks but it'll be just as good if not better than original and won't be able to tell it was ever welded on either side. I've been doing little stuff here and there getting dents out and such. I want all metal work, no bondo Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 5, 2017 Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 I hate bondo too... I am not bothering to straighten mine.... welding holes and straightening where I need to like where the emblems go... going for a grittier look on mine showing its been used over the years while protecting against rust. maybe someday I'll pay someone else to straighten everything.. doubt it... Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2017 Eventually I'll get around to taking the whole thing down to bare metal and do a complete restoration so that everything is new. I'm just doing little things right now so I can start driving it again Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 Started work on the other side today And did some lowering today. Got as far as re-indexing the passenger side and started loosing up the driver side when my jack started leaking..... time for a new jack 2 Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted March 7, 2017 Report Share Posted March 7, 2017 looking good! keep up the good work man! Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Finally got a new jack and stands Work will resume! 3 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Was fabbing up my own linkage for my single sidedraft Weber 45dcoe Ended up buying the kits from pierce manifolds Came out to $80 with shipping, guess it's not too bad for a quality product designed and made for the application.... instead of me nabbing stainless scraps from work 2 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Front torsion bars are indexed, need to crank them up a little more 2 Quote Link to comment
mikeanike99 Posted March 14, 2017 Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 looking sick! Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2017 Ordered the DZ-start kit from Datsundave today with the RFID option, hope to get it in this week (fingers crossed) Innovative wideband 02 kit will be shipped today from JEGs, found they were $45 cheaper than summit 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Boom, wideband for Lola! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Cant wait to see how that wideband works for tuning the side draft... So what's the big deal on those start kits? I always wondered how well they work with the carberator if you need to crank it any extra.... Well it must work because I see some others guys with 620s running it... I never had a key for my ignition I just did it with relays and switches, (used to do dealer work on car starts and alarms) and before any one says anything I can electrically lock out my dizzy as an anti-theft system so... But that dz system having the ability to prevent theft is good with the Rfid option, I assume that's the key fob.... Nice purchases can't wait to see how it all works out.. Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 It's the same as having a key, the push button start goes in the ignition switch location in the coloumn. The choke is what determines cold start ups, most have either a manual or electric choke. I've found a few pumps on the gas and mine will start up easily. Haven't hooked up a manual choke cable for it yet. I just like the ease of it, no ignition key to carry around, just a FOB to keep with you in the car and it looks neat. Someone can't just break into the truck and cross some wires and drive off. They need the key fob within close proximity (not sure how close) for it to start otherwise it stays in the armed/locked position. Now I won't have any keys swinging around hitting my knee or making noises. Much cleaner and I like that it's a Nissan part. Dave did an awesome job on designing and building them. Sucks that it was $300, but well worth it in the end since this is his last run and I haven't found anything really comparable. The kit is also compatible to run door actuators which is cool for when I do decided to have electric door locks..... someday lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I get the reason and its definitely a good upgrade... the cars I've seen with those buttons once you push it the device takes over and cranks it for you.. but those are newer fuel injected.. it must have a tach sense so it knows it's running or something... or always you to crank it like the key for as long or short as necessary. Seems like Dave did his homework and makes a nice product.. I just haven't seen posts on how it operates just that people like it... Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 It connects to the negative terminal of your ignition coil so it knows the vehicle is on. Push for as long as you need to get the vehicle started, not on a timer or anything. As soon as you let off the button it stops cranking but will crank the entire time you're pushing the button. I'm sure you could pm or email Dave with any questions, he'll tell you everything you need to know other than how the coding is written. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 No need to message dave. hobo that simple piece of info you said is good... And sorry to say even with that system if you just jump power to the coil and tap the starter with a screw driver I bet you could still start the vehicle... I made a jumper with a relay that does just that like a remote start switch.... that is if your still using the factory mechanical fuel pump.. you'll be able to drive as long as the battery will allow.. So having an electric fuel pump would be good or add a shut off solenoid to the mechanical pump so no fuel can be delivered if some one tries to steal it.. Just adding my 2 cents... Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 I'm sure you could still steal the truck, if you knew where the battery disconnect was Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Battery disconnect is good too as long as they dont see you turn it off.. Just playing Devils advocate here. From doing alarms on motorcycles and cars I always thought about how assholes would get around my work.... i don't wanna see anyone loose there datsun from a simple oversight... 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 If the button is off and you jump the starter it will crank. I can test to see if it'll fire but I doubt it. Need that signal from the cab saying send spark I think. Sorry for hijacking your thread willz, but I'll probably report back here with findings about bump starting the car without the ignition on Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 You need nothing from the cab. You can start an engine on the ground with just battery power to the coil and starter and a fuel supply .. You will have to supply power to the coil.. just jumping the starter won't work.. Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 Coil is on the other side of the bay. That's a lot of work to steal a vehicle most people don't want. Not to mention you have to get under the hood for all that. I think you're looking a little too hard for ways around an ignition setup Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 15, 2017 Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 And like it would be a stretch to see a datsun with its hood open..... All I am saying is its possible. .. maybe not likely but it is possible. And it's really not alot of work... Really any vehicle with a single coil and mechanical fuel pump can be taken easily. The more electrical that needs to be powered the better, like a fuel pump or even the e-choke on the carb , or obviously an ecu.. this will hinder someone.. And I will leave it at that so willz can get back to posting ... Quote Link to comment
willz Posted March 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2017 This is all good info, I don't mind. As far as the battery kill.... you'd never find it.... or see me take it out Quote Link to comment
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