Olivia - 69 2 door 510 sedan - fully built CA18DET

[aintnobiscuit]

Hey! That's what I said when i opened them :)

[DottiBlue]

Is there room under the dash to clear the master cylinders?

[aintnobiscuit]

Yes and no. Yes, if I remove stuff, no if I don't.

 

I was prepared to remove the structural shit holding the gauge cluster up prior to ordering the pedals. I researched a lot and people who want to maintain the stock dash just make mounts that incorporate the mounting points for the steering column, dashboard and gauge cluster. It doesn't seem too bad. I guess Once I pull everything out and start measuring things I'll know for sure just how extensive things will need to be changed. I'm probably going to ditch the stock speedo because i can't stop this slight leak with the 280zx speedo drive assembly installed. I have a GPS speedo i threw together anyway, so at least that's accurate. As far as the other gauges, I was considering using black tinted plastic with lit gauges behind it so when you start the car the gauges show through but otherwise it's just black. IDK... still considering many options. It just needs to drive and be reliable. All the cosmetic stuff can take as long as it needs to.

[aintnobiscuit]

Figured I would do something along these lines

 

Or perhaps something along these lines just mounted a little lower.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/50374-wilwood-pedals-in-a-dime-whos-done-it-updated/

 

Then again... there is something very beautiful about the interior of this mustang... perhaps I will just go very minimal and try to make it look nice in it's own way?

[aintnobiscuit]

So i got everything out that needs to be removed and am going to get some wire wrap to make this cleaner. Probably get some power/ground distribution blocks and try to clean things up as well (if I have time). I think i WILL leave the dash out for a while and clean/spray everything to make it look nice.

 

Pulled the dash and disconnected all the wiring to the dash/accessories. Removed the mounting brackets for pedals, pedals, steering column bracket.. etc

 

See... lots of room for pedals.

 

This is approximately where I want to mount them. Still need to adjust pedal travel.

 

With the dash on, should be a lot of room up top. 

 

Looking through the guage cluster hole.

[aintnobiscuit]

1. Chop off the existing downpipe flange (2.5" - 4 bolt)

Measure exhaust to see if I need some 3" pipe... if so, look for somewhere local that has some

Extend exhaust to correct length if necessary (~4")?

Add V-band flange

Bolt up to make sure it fits

Finish the steering column bracket where it mates to the pedal bracket

Measure/drill holes in the pedal bracket plate so it can be bolted to firewall

Cut out a lot of the excess wiring

Make a bracket that the ECU can slide onto on the firewall

Catch up on as much sleep as possible

[Eagle_Adam]

Holy mother of god!!!!

 

 

Sweet!!!!!

[Syncro]

How hard is that gonna be to service?

[aintnobiscuit]

I considered that, but how often do you need to add fluid to your brakes/clutch? I may not run any dash.. i'm sort of in a transition period where I'm starting to determine how the car will look inside. I think at least for the time being I'm going to leave the dash out... BUT.... since it's an absolute bitch to make the stock speedo work, be accurate, not bounce around within 40mph of the speed i'm driving I will continue down the path of the electronic dash I was considering before. Blacked out plastic with backlit gauges. As far as servicing, not that difficult. Put the brake fluid in a squeeze container with a 6-12" clear plastic hose and squeeze it to put some into the reservoirs... seems easy enough to me.

 

New pictures from this weekend. Didn't get a lot of time to work on it because I am putting my cat down later today so we spent a lot of time with him.

 

Pedal brackets are complete so i'll be installing those shortly. Working on measuring the distance from the firewall to the steering wheel bracket to make sure that's correct and can still put the dash on... small stuff. Should be done this week or weekend. I am by no means a master of welding, so i was happy with the results.

 

 

 

 

[erichwaslike]

that is some really nice stainless on that o2 housing lol... your welds are looking really good. no longer at skib level of welding

[aintnobiscuit]

ha ha ha, thanks man. It turns out I only used 1/3 of the U bend. I'll swing the rest by at some point pretty soon. The 02 sensor bung is the only thing that came out looking like that. i learned something that day. IDK how to explain it in words but basically it's hard to cut an angle onto the end of a pipe and then cut other pieces to fill in the gap on the other side. It makes more sense to just make a diagonal cut all the way across the pipe.

[erichwaslike]

that looks much easier than the one i had to modify.... but i did like the way it snaked thru the bay.

[aintnobiscuit]

Received exhaust gasket and 3" exhaust flange. Gonna finish up the exhaust this weekend and the last little bit of pedal/steering column bracket. Then i think i just need to run brake lines and bleed them.... cool... 

 

there is something i need help with. I can't find good injectors in the US. I need 800cc injectors. Any leads? Couldn't find any nismo, sard, etc. Only deatschwerks and companies who bore out stock injectors which I want to avoid.

[DISLEXICDIME]

You need some starion 910cc main injectors

[housew]

Yes and no. Yes, if I remove stuff, no if I don't.

 

I was prepared to remove the structural shit holding the gauge cluster up prior to ordering the pedals. I researched a lot and people who want to maintain the stock dash just make mounts that incorporate the mounting points for the steering column, dashboard and gauge cluster. It doesn't seem too bad. I guess Once I pull everything out and start measuring things I'll know for sure just how extensive things will need to be changed. I'm probably going to ditch the stock speedo because i can't stop this slight leak with the 280zx speedo drive assembly installed. I have a GPS speedo i threw together anyway, so at least that's accurate. As far as the other gauges, I was considering using black tinted plastic with lit gauges behind it so when you start the car the gauges show through but otherwise it's just black. IDK... still considering many options. It just needs to drive and be reliable. All the cosmetic stuff can take as long as it needs to.

 

Im currently working on that gauge concept. Its come together pretty well. I'm waiting on some adaptors to mount my sending units, but It should be done in a week or so. I also have a '69. I'll let you know how it turns out / looks. I have the gauge mounting all done, and the gauges powered up so i could slap it together cosmetically and snap a pic if you wanted.

[aintnobiscuit]

That would be awesome! I'd really love to see how it looks. Great minds think alike housew ;)

 

i got the idea from the aristo (lexus gs400). This isn't exactly what I was thinking, but it's close. I just want it light enough for the numbers/needles to show through though. I think because the 69 cluster is just a large rectangle it would look really good like this. Still looks classic until you turn the car on, at which point it lights up and you know something magical is about to happen. I really want to do it with defi gauges because of the cool sweeping action.

 

 

 

Off

 

On

[rusty12ver]

Does injector dynamics fall in that category? They offer 1000cc and can be had for 450-500. They are very tuner friendly and have so far have a good rep.

[aintnobiscuit]

Apparently injector dynamics are pretty good, haven't done enough research to know which ones will fit the CA

[housew]

Off

 

 

on

 

I need to do a shroud of sorts around the boost gauge to contain the light a bit better, but that's the idea.

 

no 69 datto parts were hurt in the making of this cluster all plug/bolt in so far.

[15om]

Very nice! Man, you had your car running for like, a day, and then tore it all apart again!! Yo CRAZY! lol

[aintnobiscuit]

for a good reason though...

 

Well, basically everything is done. i just need to put the exhaust on and bleed they brake system. I've been so damn busy I haven't had any time to do that though.

[aintnobiscuit]

Ordered 1000cc injectors.

[Eagle_Adam]

like a bawse!

[MicroMachinery]

Hey, so I've tried to extract information from the "How to wire in a ..." thread, but seems like nobody wants to give up the goods. Since you're active and have a CA swap, I'm wanting to know which wires off of the ECU I have to keep, and which ones I can do without. I'm doing a CA swap, but the harness has been butchered, so rather than reconnect and solder every last wire, only to have to remove them afterwards, I was wondering if you had a list of all the ones you were able to remove. Thank you :)

 

Here was my original post in the "How to.." thread, asking for help. Thank you.

 

MicroMachinery, on 20 Mar 2014 - 5:31 PM, said:

Does anybody know off the top of their head which(if any) of these wires are not necessary to a CA swap into an older Datsun?

 

 

I ask because I'm dealing with a harness that has been cut off at the ECU plug, and the less wires I have to track down and splice back together with the other harness segments, the better. Thanks!

 

 

MicroMachinery, on 14 May 2014 - 9:57 PM, said:

I'm not sure if I got an answer or not. I think not.

 

I'm thinking I could remove without any consequence:

6

17

32?

33?

46

47?

53

54

56

58?

 

Any others I can trim out? Or are any of those no-no's to delete.. thanks guys :)

[aintnobiscuit]

Assuming you are using a stock ECU, basically you need all of them. Just go to the junk yard and pick up another wiring harness for $20 or whatever. It's cheap and there's that piece of mind that comes with knowing 100% for sure it just works. You don't want to have to sit around spending days/hours/weeks figuring out the whole harness + doing continuity tests on the 100 or so wires.