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Build thread for L20B/L20DE, LZKA20/24E, something...


HRH

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EDIT: Build has changed, page 5, probably not doing turbo now.

 

NOTE: Actual build portion of thread starts at page 4. This will probably be a longer build than I want, but I've finally committed to an idea. I have a good feeling I will not be driving the 510 to Canby this year as it will still be torn apart in various states at that time. :( BUT, luckily I have a Datsun D21 to bring again! :D

 

Anyway, the plan is turboing the current dead L20B by boring it out to 86mm and using SR20DET pistons. My Datsun guru has an L20B turbo exhaust manifold still and I have my new badass custom EFI manifold that is sitting unused on the floor from 6 months ago. To further complicate this, seeing as I'm planning from between 225-250 hp I'll need to redo the drivetrain.

 

Haven't decided what diff to go with, possibly an R200 out of a Z car. Also going to need CV shafts, not the u-joint shafts. Probably could use them but I know they will eventually break.

 

On top of the drivetrain robustness, I want to paint it using actual single stage, not rattle can. And I'm definitely going to replace the wiring harness. Also need some good management. Will most likely be using Megasquirt but that's pretty far down the road so I'm not worried about it at the moment.

 

Maybe I'll haul it to Canby so Icehouse can help me set up the MS with a how-to tent instruction! ;) Okay, no, probably not. Plus I don't have a trailer to haul it there.

 

Anyway, that's the plan, I'll update this when I have time (slow build)

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So for the past 4 or 5 months the 510 has been sick. Happened in early fall, running to work at high rpms, changed pitch, oil spooging out the pcv. I had been noticing more oil blow-by before that, but it finally started running on 3.5 cylinders, or at least seeming like it. Anyway, not having motivation, I've been limping it into the yard, not wanting to tear it down and find out what went wrong. Finally decided screw it, I'm starting on the project of completely redoing the drivetrain, paint, interior, and pretty much rebuilding the car again from the ground up. Took me 3 years the first time, hopefully this time will be a little bit quicker, I'd still like to drive her to Canby '12.

 

So far I'm guessing cracked rings, blown head gasket (no water leakage) or holed piston or some other catastrophe. Just got the intake off, have to undo the exhaust and then I'll yank the head which should identify most of the issues. Taking video and pictures, have the computer on the roof of the car right now, I'll upload as I go for the head, so should have some pics and video up before too long.

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Naw, I know it's bad. Plus have a huge lumpy cam in, would need to swap in a stock cam to get a useful compression test. And I need to repaint the engine bay, run new fuel lines, do a wire tuck, replace the wire harness entirely, etc. The 510 is going to look nicer than my hardbody, fixing all the dents, real paint job. Going to be a bit of work. Here's some pics to tide you over:

 

LZ20Bteardown1.jpg

 

LZ20Bteardown2.jpg

 

LZ20Bteardown3.jpg

 

LZ20Bteardown4.jpg

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I flip the switches for each injector really fast! :D It's a 1980 200sx EFI system. There's a big build thread on it.

 

So I know what the problem is now. Anyone want to guess before I post the pics or video?

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I flip the switches for each injector really fast! :D It's a 1980 200sx EFI system. There's a big build thread on it.

 

So I know what the problem is now. Anyone want to guess before I post the pics or video?

 

hahaha ^^^ :lol: ,,, Mix-Master ,,, YO !!!

 

@ KC Phrius ---> check out HRH's EFI conversion on this !!! WELL ,,, worth the look/read man

;)

 

OOOOOOOOOOO-oooooooooo ,,, burnt valve ?

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Yes, quite possible Mike. I did (stupidly) switch back to used factory injectors as noted in my thread after the issue of having too much fuel and thinking the injectors were the problem. (That was when the cold start fuel dump was wired on instead of starter on only) If I use the same system, there will be new injectors for the next version of the motor.

 

I actually haven't looked at #3 injector and already shut up the garage for the night. I suspect you may be right though.

 

[EDIT] Actually, the Datsun guru and my roommate are thinking more possibly a defect in the piston since the rest of the cylinder seems rather unscathed. You'd think the lean injector would have cause more problems than just that side sluffing off. And I did drive it home after the incident of sound and changing pitch, so it may have that appearance from excessive running after failure.

 

The other issue is the motor is a bit higher compression than I thought. When I built it, I built it for what I know would work. Assuming my calculations are correct with nearly 0 dish and the .030 off the head, it should be high 11s if not 12:1. I can't remember what the exact calculation was, but it was pretty damn high.

 

The pistons are just ITM Taiwan, probably not rated for such high compression ratios. Especially considering it was 9.5:1 in the motor it was designed for. Hence, I'm looking at more expensive pistons for the next motor. May see about getting turbo 280ZX pistons, but so far, no aftermarket, going to try Nissan on Monday, see if they can still get them and whether they're ghastly expensive. Probably not more than the $600 for a good set of CP or Arias though.

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The other issue is the motor is a bit higher compression than I thought. When I built it, I built it for what I know would work. Assuming my calculations are correct with nearly 0 dish and the .030 off the head, it should be high 11s if not 12:1. I can't remember what the exact calculation was, but it was pretty damn high.

 

The pistons are just ITM Taiwan, probably not rated for such high compression ratios. Especially considering it was 9.5:1 in the motor it was designed for. Hence, I'm looking at more expensive pistons for the next motor. May see about getting turbo 280ZX pistons, but so far, no aftermarket, going to try Nissan on Monday, see if they can still get them and whether they're ghastly expensive. Probably not more than the $600 for a good set of CP or Arias though.

 

We run ITM pistons in a couple different high compression motors.... Got an L20B(basically) running ITM pistons at 11.5:1 compression and 8000RPMs, but it runs on 113 VP gas ONLY. The 113 really helps keep temps down in the combustion chamber. Yes the octane rating is overkill, but the main reason is that 113 has better cooling characteristics than 110 to keep those pistons cool.

If you have any doubts about 113's cooling effect, spill some on your hand.

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