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Build thread for L20B/L20DE, LZKA20/24E, something...


HRH

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Thanks Chester, I'm going to reuse the current head though. .030 off isn't that big a deal to me. Plus, I have $350 into that head, not including all the port and polish work I've done myself.

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Sweeeeeeeeet! Checked all the local craigslists, and found a guy in Portland I think who has a set of stock pistons and rods from a black top SR20, he's going forged internals! Sale pending at the moment, don't get paid until Friday, but a darn sight cheaper than aftermarket, and I'm almost wondering if I could use the SR20 rods....not sure, haven't researched rod long for those. Nope, just looked it up, much shorter rod. No matter!

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Sweeeeeeeeet! Checked all the local craigslists, and found a guy in Portland I think who has a set of stock pistons and rods from a black top SR20, he's going forged internals! Sale pending at the moment, don't get paid until Friday, but a darn sight cheaper than aftermarket, and I'm almost wondering if I could use the SR20 rods....not sure, haven't researched rod long for those. Nope, just looked it up, much shorter rod. No matter!

 

 

Great News !!!

 

Think I have some spare L24 Rods/Pistons attached ,,, can you use thr rods in this build or too high compression ? :)

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ooooo L24 pistons. Those dont seem to be easy to find...

 

Pm me if you wish

 

Be sure they aren't from a Maxima. The L24 piston and rods were some weird pin and rod big end diameter.

 

Interesting ... Did not know that !

 

They are not a maxima l24 set ...

 

Excellent catch

 

No, the L24s are odd size. Given the pin height on the SR20 being equal with the Z20, there is only one rod combination, and that is the 6" long Z20 rods with the 86mm L20B crank.

 

Cool cool ...

 

[And I'm out !

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Pistons are coming as of today! Booyah! Now hopefully I measured everything correctly. Think I may transform this into the build thread.

 

EDIT: I HAVE transformed this into the build thread! And here is some music to set the tone!

 

 

sr20pistons.jpg

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Dammit, you mean I'm not the first to do this?! Ah suck! Where's that thread? I haven't looked at it. Seriously, where is that thread? I'm googling like mad and I can't freakin' find it! Feel like a newb! :P

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Looks like fineline's last post was December 2009, a few posts after that someone mentioned he sold the car. Bummer! I'll go back and read all that stuff, thanks Len!

 

Looks like fineline was last active in 2010, must have gotten out of Datsuns or something. Or maybe just Ratsun. Sad. Still reading the rest of the thread. Looks like so far he had better cashflow than I do. ;)

 

Aww jeezus, there's a FRAM oil filter on his pretty motor!!! :angry:

 

Getting through the thread, interesting fineline used the Z22 crank and 20B rods. I like the idea of using the Z22 crank for the extra stroke, but 8:1 static is a little low for my tastes, especially since I'm not going to run a big turbo. I think 9.1:1 or thereabouts will yield better results. Plus my 20B crank is fully counterweighted, it spins very nicely.

 

Well, the thread ends without dyno information from what I can see. Only one video was still working (not private) which was a burnout, motor definitely sounded healthy. Maybe I'll send a pm to inquire as to the status of the project before he sold it.

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Out of a 20 page thread, there is maybe about 2 pages of actual info. Almost worth doing a copy&paste of the info to be able to concentrate on what Fineline actually did. I think somewhere in there is mention of him doing a build thread somewhere else. Maybe NWDE? I haven't taken time to look for that.

 

Matt, I think you have most of what you need already to do this, at least as far as lower engine, head, manifolds, EFI. EFI management will take some thought. Maybe Megasquirt is the only way to go; maybe there is something cheaper that will work. I don't know if your crank and rods have been magnafluxed, but probably time to do it if they haven't. Seems you could put together your engine with turbo in time for Canby next year, even if you have to keep the drive train as-is for now. Providing you can drive it sensibly until you have time for drive train upgrades. You do plan to drive this thing sensibly, right? HA! I wonder how well 280 or 300Z rear end, half-shafts, etc. would hold up? You might be able to score a trashed 280 with a 5-speed and other bits cheaper than buying pieces at P&S. I don't think your dogleg will be happy with a turbo!

 

Len

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No, the dogleg is already unhappy with the three years of abuse from the current motor. Bearings are growling, failure is imminent if it continues getting abused. And I had it completely rebuilt prior to driving the car! I'm swapping it for the 280z tranny. Not sure what I will be doing for the rear end. I'd prefer to stay independent rear, though I'm not opposed to live axle since I'm not planning on rally racing the car now. If I could get a decent Ford 8" rear, that would have a ton of LSD options and ease of parts, and it's the same bolt pattern.

 

Still, independent is better. I remember someone doing Subaru shafts without too much effort. An R200 would be plenty strong and has a viscous LSD option. I'd prefer a clutch style though. Just going to take some time and research.

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Getting through the thread, interesting fineline used the Z22 crank and 20B rods.

 

Didn't see it mentioning L20B rods... either way that's impossible. He would need late Z22E rods to make this work. Or the custom pistons have a different pin height, unlikely as the Z22E rods are a perfect fit 149.5mm. I did the math and it's 8.0 something.

 

 

IF, L20B rods were used the only 87mm piston usable is the Z22S early Z22E and not the SR20s

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So I got the pistons yesterday, the seller did indeed bomb-proof them which was super nice. I opened them up though and it looked as though the piston was chipped! So I unwrapped another, and it was the same! Note the cutout on the skirt in the above picture. It's to clear the oil squirters on the SR20, just hadn't seen that arrangement before.

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