Laecaon Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Headliner is like 135 or something shipped from Ebay. Quality is very nice. But both front and rear window need to be removed for that... I installed mine myself, wasnt too difficult. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 And you didn't have any problems with rippling? I'm scared to do it. I found a diy kit for $30 from an upholstery supplier, but looks like it's just the fabric. Thinking I may just take it down to an upholstery shop and have them put it in. I'll take out the front and back glass first to make it cheaper. Who needs windshields anyway! :) Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 I left it over night like this while the glue dried: The pillar corners were annoying, but I am pretty sure I got them all better. I had an issue with one of my cargo windows when I reinserted it. Make sure to install the windows with pull the lip over the top first, that way if you mess up you can take the window out again, and you will mess up if you install the bottom first... I need to get current pics of my headliner... I also need to get my friend to sew up my visors with the new material... Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Impressive....RENT A CLAMP ????.... :D Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Nice dude, that looks great! I just found the first rust in my car. Or rather, unknown rust. Was going at the floor pan and near the passenger seat bracket in the front, a hole opened up about an inch and a half long and a half inch wide. Really glad I started doing this project so I didn't miss that before it got really bad. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 29, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Oics, cutting open the headliner to extract the wiring harness and the hole I found: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Oooooo! Guess what Datzenmike? Pretty soon I'll be posting up some specs to your liking regarding peanut head milling! Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Okay, so we finally got around to measuring the cylinder head volume of Regy's W53 head after we've milled it .045" I ran into the other problem today of going to put in the valves, only to realize I didn't have valve springs. So went over to my L16 head and yanked the valvetrain on that so I could install the valves for testing the combustion chamber volume. Finally got it downstairs and proceeded to install the two valves. Put plumber's putty on the seats to ensure no leakage. They haven't been lapped yet. Filled it up with 25ml, goofed it up, figured out putting the hole to one side resulted in better filling. Cleaned it back out, did it again. Got 25 ml, refilled, then down to 11.2 ml (same as cc's) There is a slight margin of error here. One is you have to slide the plexiglass plate over the head to get the hole to the air bubbles to untrap them. There is a slight water film that exists under the plate. Rather negligible really. The other is the slight little bits of water that come out of the hole and sit on the edge. Very very little was lost, and most sucked back into the chamber. Obviously not all. That said, I'm happy saying the chamber was probably only at 36 ccs, instead of 36.2 ccs. According to my calculations, this makes for a 10.1:1 motor roughly, given an 85.5 mm bore, 86 mm crank stroke, -11.36 cc dish of the piston, and 1.2 mm crushed thickness of the head gasket. So that will be the head for Regy's motor, here are the oics! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 N i c e.....Matt. Did you measure the before volume by any chance? If 41 then 0.045" removed translates to 5cc chamber volume removed? That's 0.23mm for every cc of volume you want removed. That's 0.009" for every cc you want removed. Hmmmm something not adding up. An open chamber head with 0.045" removed is 6.6cc. A peanut has way less area. Could the W53 have been 38.5cc to begin with? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Yep, I believe the W53 peanut head is supposed to be 39cc regular. Seem to remember reading that in the Datsun bible actually. Keep in mind, I'm probably plus or minus .2 to .5 cc's. It's hard to be completely accurate, but it gives a pretty good idea. I calculated .2 above and below and the compression ratio difference is fairly negligible. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted July 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2012 Now hear this, resurrection speed....go! So I've finally fully torn down the old race motor since I'm using that in a build for a local fellow. Thought you guys might like to see the carnage. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Was that because of detonation? or... Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted July 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Probably going lean on that end, then detonation, or a combination. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted July 8, 2012 Report Share Posted July 8, 2012 Ow Having too much fun? :lol: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted July 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 Well, that was quite a while ago. Oh well. At least I know why it happened. Just wish I hadn't reversed the fuel lines at the tank. Should have done the tank inlet and outlet properly to begin with, but alas, didn't get that far. Now that I'm going KA, the tank will definitely get addressed. Quote Link to comment
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