Jester Posted January 4, 2012 Report Share Posted January 4, 2012 This is the OZDAT engine calculator. Very helpful. You may have to edit some of the dimensions. I have found a few that are not correct. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 I need to go visit that OZDAT site, have a circle track one I check for most stuff, it's pretty accurate. So anyway, went to the gun show today. Didn't buy any guns, but I did buy a sign for the garage door: And even better, at the flea market in the next bay, I found this!!!! The Cars Candy-O LP! Booyah! Record was unscratched! And now on to the cooler stuff. Got all this back from Sunwest on Friday. This is actually the L20 for Regy's motor build of his 510, the one I'm giving him in exchange for all the bodywork needed on mine. This is the new engine stand I need to assemble tonight. Same as the one right next to it! Harbor Freight, can't go wrong for $60. Never had any issues with their stands. Built two motors on the other orange one. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 You gotta link for that circle track site? Wouldn't mind checking it out. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Oh god look at that flywheel. Fap Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Oh god look at that flywheel. Fap Haha, it's just a standard 30 lb dinner plate. I should have one lightened while I'm building my motor. Circle track sites, look up Day Motorsports in Tyler TX. Yes, I know it's Texas, but hey, they have good prices and haven't had any problems ordering from them. Think it's daymotorsports.com Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2012 Well, today I came to a conclusion: I want the 510 on the road to use by Canby. I was thinking more and more about the turbo/supercharger setup and started getting costs together. Finally figured out it's going to cost me way more to build a turbo motor than I currently have. Compound that by the fact that my roommate will be moving out here before too long so I'll be losing $350/month. Considering I'm probably not going to get another roommate to replace him (unless my Japanese bride shows up ;) )I'll have even less money. So I'm contemplating what motor I want to build at the moment. Going back to NA, looking for decent power. Can still use either the SR pistons with a closed chamber head, or the KA24DE or KA24E pistons I have with either head, KAE or KADE, or L20B with KA head or Z22 with KA24 pistons and L or KA head. Double cam would be cool and fairly easy to do. However, I have more than enough parts for an L build though it doesn't have as much power potential as a KADE head does. I'll be thinking on it during the next few days and probably won't figure it out until I have all the pieces. Looking into KA double cam heads and intake manifolds/etc. So far, it's a lot easier to get a KAE head or just use the L head. I also would like to use the new manifold Joe made for me, but if I don't, I don't. So that's where we are now. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Okay, so I think I've figured out a combination that will work. Figure I'll use the same block I currently have, bore it to 86mm, yank the crank out of the Z22, put the SR pistons on that, get the extra crank stroke. Sticking with the L head because dammit, I have the new manifold, I don't have to buy anything, and there's nothing wrong with my head. Going to accept I won't get as much power out of it as putting on a KADE head, but oh well. So we'll have a 2.1 liter as a result with somewhere in the mid 10:1 range depending on a few factors I haven't calculated yet. I think that will yield impressive results. Hopefully enough to get in the 175-180 hp range. And a buttload of torque with the extra 6mm of stroke. And here's some pictures of starting to scrape the floor of asphalt coating. Going to do black Duplicolor bedliner on the floor pan to seal it away from moisture and ickyness. Seems to be less thick than the Herculiner version, and cheaper too, but still urethane and rubber. Also got Regy's crank in today. Need to get a seal set at work, seems I forgot that part of the equation. Found a bunch of rust starting under the asphalt coating, really glad I decided to do this project. I hate it when things rot from the inside out. Quote Link to comment
DAT510 Posted January 15, 2012 Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 This is going to be awesome. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2012 Thanks, I sure hope so! :D Hope I can get it done in time! :blink: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 You guys think I got it hot enough in the garage? :D That's fahrenheit, not celcius now! The old carpet and insulation from the 510 burns really well too. It's been going all day while I've dinked around cutting apart filters as seen in the general section. The old asphalt coating peeled off even easier in the front footwells. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Holy crap, no wonder flywheels are so hard to find. Take a shot of the wall at head level next time. Gives a good indicator of how hot the room is. Are you putting any heat to the old asphalt tabs? I need to pull mine up too. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Haha, there's only 6 in that pile! And two others, one for Regy's motor and one off mine. :) The rest of the garage averages from 55-75 degrees. It's not insulated, so the far entrance where the stove isn't is still 55. Pretty good for uninsulated though. Just takes a lot of wood, but very comfortable now. Floor is still 48 degrees at the coldest spot. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Oh yeah, my bodyman Regy said dry ice makes it super easy to get asphalt coating off, haven't tried it yet. I may under the rear seat area, it never got much moisture and is rather resistant to peeling off. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Okay, have most of the shit off the front and rear floor pan, just need to get the rear seat area cleaned off, then massive amounts of cleaning and DA. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I would do this, but I am afraid unless I have something to replace it with, it will make the car sound like a tin can. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I'm using bedliner and going over the floor pan. Duplicolor version seems to be a little smoother than the Herculiner, going to try it. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 22, 2012 Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 I'm using bedliner and going over the floor pan. Duplicolor version seems to be a little smoother than the Herculiner, going to try it. Cool Hrh! I am looking at doing my floors on my project z soon ... interested in this :) Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2012 Hells yeah! I'll document that. Almost started sanding tonight, but it's getting too late, I'm tired. Did finish getting up the rear seat asphalt. Unfortunately the local Safeway didn't have dry ice, so I just went at it with my Mac scraper and a hammer. Worked pretty well, little bit of effort. Still have to get the gas pedal base out of the front too, going to grind the bolts out, go figure they're kinda rusty and the impact driver just stripped them out. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 just be sure you use the roll duplicolor not the spray can i used the spray can and it chips after a while Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 Matt, those round pressed wood particle things under the flywheel. Where'd you get them? They sure look like the centers from rolls of board. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I would imagine that's what they are, they came with the house. Used them as spacers, blocks, engine holders, all sorts of things. Rather odd, but they've served their purpose quite well I think! Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 Floors coming along nicely :thumbup: I'm watching you HRH .... ollz Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 I am going out to start the fire right now! Planning on getting a few things done today! Canby is looming!! :blink: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Started going at it with the DA tonight. Slow going, ended up doing a lot with the 2" angle grinder, especially in the "X" of the floor pan. Lots of rust to dig out. I want it all gone before I coat it. Picked up another can of metal etching primer today, may use some rust converter on some of the hard to reach places. Anyway, tired of that and started getting the wiring harness out so I can replace it. Now the only problem is the dome light wiring. It's hung up somewhere and I probably need to remove the headliner. Unfortunately it's already ripped in one section and it's probably brittle which means removal means destroyal, and I like having a headliner. Redoing it would be a nice though, but I'm thinking those are spendy. Anyway, giving up for tonight, going to go at it again tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted January 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Well I was going to put the pistons in Regy's motor just now, but forgot I hadn't ordered new connecting rod bolts! :( Looks like I'm going back to sanding the floor pan. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.