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I checked at the calipers/drums for leaks and didn't have any when I was bleeding the system. However, I just noticed underneath the MC is a little damp, but I don't know if it's from a leak or just from where I spilled fluid when I was filling it up. I cleaned it up and I'll check again periodically to see if it's leaking. Might be time to go ahead and upgrade to a Wilwood ;D

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If it's your daily ... For simplicity , cost and function I'd be hard pressed to fit a 79-81 280zx 15/16" Master Cylinder instead.

It would be a simple bench bleed, r&r , bleed,test,drive.

 

I honestly don't know what booster would work with a wilwood. (Dimensions needed ?)

 

I just like wilwood lol.

 

Might as well check and bleed your slave while there.

 

10mm and 8mm flare-nut wrenches.

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I run a 73 booster its the largest of the 240's. People run the later 2+2 booster as well. I'm saying it again to think about the 4 pots more carefully. Google it, every z site has threads on people having the fronts lock too early. I own them, its a real problem...

 

Edit: I run that 15/16 Master, its pretty good. I thought though they became hens teeth lately? I think everyone is running that 1" wilwood now as the popular upgrade. think its like just over 100 bucks too vs the 15/16 which is up last time I looked for one.

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Nicoya had a couple of 15/16's masters .. you can pm him as well.

A couple auto stores here said they could get them , but that was 4 months ago ? :unsure:

No rebuild kits available from same stores .

I heard the same.

 

Wow... $100 is cheap for what that Wilwood is.

 

Huh I didn't know the yota 4 pots were locking early. Good to know !

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Really? Thats awesome.

 

The wilwood isnt really anything crazy its just a basic master. Your right though for the price its a real deal.

 

Its not the brakes fault they just completely unbalance the stock system. People have to run their prop valves wide open and its still not enough. I thought it worth mentioning twice because I have found myself sliding on more then one occasion lol. It seems everyone just follows the group but its not the best option...

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So my brake light came on the other day and I figured it was just crappy wiring. And then the next day my brakes stopped working so I had to drive slow and use the e brake the whole way home. Brake fluid reservoirs were fucking EMPTY so I had to fill em and bleed all four corners. Fortunately I bought a vacuum bleeder a few months ago so it wasn't that hard. I didn't see any leaks anywhere though, idk why they were empty.

 

 

Same thing happened to me a couple months ago. Ended up being a slight leak from the MC. Replaced it with a 15/16 MC and called it a day. I'm running stock fronts and rear 240sx discs and calipers.

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I've heard a lot about the Toyota brakes locking early as well. Idk, I just want to do everything right this time, paying attention to everything that I can while I'm doing it. I was actually toying with the idea of a z32 rear brake swap. The calipers/rotors bolt onto s13/14's, so it would make sense for them to bolt onto an s30 with an s13 rear disc conversion? I'm not sure if anyone's done that, seems like everyone who's done z32 brakes has made their own brackets.

 

At the same time, I'm looking at getting new wheels in about a year, and they'll be 14"s, and I'm not sure if the Toyota brakes will even clear. Either way, I'll probably go ahead and get whatever MC is more easily available.

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There is a aus company that makes brackets for bolt on z32 rears but you loose the use of an ebrake with that option.

 

My advice would be to do a rear disc convert (s13 or s130, I did s13), 15/16 master, and hawk pads all round and I bet your more then happy with the braking for street and mild track. If your not then you can also do more after the fact.

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At the same time, I'm looking at getting new wheels in about a year, and they'll be 14"s, and I'm not sure if the Toyota brakes will even clear. Either way, I'll probably go ahead and get whatever MC is more easily available.

 

Thought I'd chime in since you brought this up. I have the Toyota brakes on the Z I just bought, and tried to fit a few 14" SSR's on the front. They do indeed foul the caliper, you'd need at least a 25mm spacer for them to clear the fixing bolts and the back of the face. I have a few different sets of 14" SSR's and they were all the same result.

 

The car currently has slot mags, and even with that the PO had installed a 10mm spacer and it clears...barely.

 

Interesting about the Toyota brakes locking up. I haven't driven the car much at all, so when it's back together and ready for some tests, I'll have to look into that.

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Damn that's what I was thinking. I'm looking at 14x10, -25ish for my next setup, and as much as I'd like them, I'd do without bigger brakes to keep the wheels. However, if I can't get 10's for the front and have to go with 9's, I might just space them and go ahead and do the brake setup. I'm just going to wait until I get my suspension completely finished and rear discs and fender mirrors before I do anything else though haha.

 

Lowered the rear about 10mm the other day to get rid of the rake, added some camber and I like the way it looks wayyy better haha. This is the only pic I have for now but I'll take some more soon.

 

E4EA2E2F-AB90-424E-9215-9C2890C5A2BA-920-0000018AE310FD7E.jpg

 

There's a set of Parts Shop Max coils for an s13 for sale about an hour from me for a really good deal, I'm trying to work out a payment plan with the guy right now so I don't have to drop a grand on them brand new haha.

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1st? I dont believe it. I have driven z's with hawk pads in the rear and autozone garbage up front both with a prop wide open and also with a stock gutted and no prop at all. Both locked front 1st when pushed.

 

I'm running the combo myself with garbage up front and premiums in the rear, gutted prop and they lock when it matters.

 

Prop valve is useless with the combo everyone runs them wide open (and its still not enough).

 

They also fade like a son of a bitch on the track too. Just another aspect in case tracking is ever to be an option.

 

Though please feel free to teach us what the magic combo is lol. Id be happy to try it, because front locking brakes blows. Cant really appreciate how much until you slide right through an intersection or turn apex....

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I don't care that you don't believe me. I am running Porterfield R4S' in the front and the KVR semi-metallic pads that Modern Motorsport supplies with the 240sx setup in the rear. When I went to test the brakes, I had my ass end come swap ends with the front more than once as I dialed in the bias with the proportioning valve.

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Share your results with the world then lol there are 100's of people out there that couldnt/can't get that result. Most def not with that pad set up either and so much so it actually has to be biased more to the front? Play the lotto.

 

Wide open prop, hawk pads in the rear and the cheapest, least effective autozone bullshit up front and the front still lock 1st... The kvrs are what the hawks replaced with the front locking issue.

Classiczcar, hbz, zcar etc... all have very long threads on people trying all sorts of combos and failing

 

Power to ya

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Hyperbole much? 100s of people? I think not. Show me 100s of people........show me others who are running Porterfield R4S' in the front and KVRs in the rear that could not get the bias worked out....

 

You tried 2 combinations of pads.....big deal. If you really researched the subject (and I can tell you have not), then you would have run across Zmanco's post about the pads he used with success, or bjhines used with success, or 1 tuff z used with success.....but.....you did not do any research.

 

Its not the lotto. If you think about why you can't get more rear bias, its rather obvious. You need pads with a higher Cf in the rear than the front. So you swapped pads.....they could have had the same Cf or not enough of a differenital in Cf.

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I'm not arguing in someones page man, I stated known facts for people to do what they wish with. Anyone interested just needs to google and find at least 10 threads devoted as well as all the people you mentioned chiming in. Just an example would be how 1 tuff z is using silvermine rears instead of 240sx rears because they couldnt be made to work properly. NOT just a pad change. Its funny you mention him too since I'm a member of the nyzcc, but im the one not informed lmao. People can read for themselves though and make their own choices...

 

Like I said power to ya, keep on keepin on and let the thread get back on track

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By all means keep arguing, I'm learning a lot of useful information for when I DO a brake swap haha.

 

The local guy sold the PBM's, so I guess Im going to continue saving for new ones. It'll be a while though, cause I still have Chrismas coming up and I'm going on a ski trip right after new years. Hopefully I'll be able to have the new coils, camber plates, brakes, and urethane suspension bushings on by the end of February, after that I'll be looking for rear LCA's and a Z31 LSD.

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Here's a few photos I took before I left for Dallas on Friday. A friend of mine down there had me come drive his Viper to Cars and Coffee, got to drive it around on Sunday for a few hours as well. He drove his vette and we chased each other around on the freeway for a while, Id almost forgotten how much fun it is to drive fast.

 

9EF402EA-B806-4A3C-A0BB-C083C2D7469D-3577-0000044D5AA21A39.jpg

 

4AC26475-1DD2-4173-A1C6-47587A120CEF-3577-0000044D54B129A5.jpg

 

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32c90y3ur2v.jpg

 

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