Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 So I will start off with saying, my friends truck was smoking so we were taking the head off anyways to do a valve stem seal job... Ok so we decided to put my known good L16 block into his 521. Partly becasue it was known to be good, and because a headbolt snapped off in his block while removing the head... So we get everything together, but 1 headbolt doesnt want to torque past like 25ft-lbs. Ok obviously a problem but does it seem bad when started? Cant tell, more on that... Radiator managed to get a whole in it. Gonna see about fixing that tomorrow... And we just discovered large amounts of oil on top of the right frame rail, but the engine was perfectly dry. Pulled the oil filter off and found a hole in the filter... WTF how do holes appear in oil filters!?! :blink: Well after starting there was at first what I thought was the sound of air, but now kinda seems like a knock of sorts. Cant feel any obvious air. Knock I thought was a head torquing issue, but with the obvious lack of oil (a lot came out) I'm not so sure anymore. This quickly turned into an annoying project. We feel like putting up the white flag. If I knew how to repair the threads in the block, I think things would look brighter. Just not sure what to do now. Any suggestions? need more info? My thoughts are maybe someone close has some knowledge tools to help out with the block threads. Or maybe someone has a L16 block that is good laying around. My friend just kinda wants to sell the thing, but We all know that is a mistake and at least wait until it is running. Quote Link to comment
Jennifer Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 :hug: sorry ive of no help...i have a l16 block.. if you want to get it :) i don't know the condition tho . :unsure: Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Ive got a l16 block crank and rods/pistons Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Ive got a l16 block crank and rods/pistons Do you know anything about the shape they are in? assembled? Did it ever smoke? What sort of price are you thinking? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 you: " WTF how do holes appear in oil filters!?! :blink: " my oil filter on my l20 is waaaay close to my motor mount edge in my 521. at that height, the l16 is identical to the l20 right? needs new motor mounts? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 you: " WTF how do holes appear in oil filters!?! :blink: " my oil filter on my l20 is waaaay close to my motor mount edge in my 521. at that height, the l16 is identical to the l20 right? needs new motor mounts? Motor mounts look solid, no splits not too much shake, Less shake than my 510. But the whole was on the end at the bottom when installed. Quote Link to comment
Guest kamakazi620 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Do you know anything about the shape they are in? assembled? Did it ever smoke? What sort of price are you thinking? ran fine #3 was low comp,Found out had a burnt valve,I tore it apart to rebuild for phil................so it needs hone/rings and new bearings IDK on price make an offer Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 There is blood everywhere! Haha couldn't figure it out so he sells it. Like every moron on Craigslist. No one or thing to blame but you're selfs . L motors are easy to find. Have cash on hand. Long rod in fs section. Look in the paper yards have them for sale. Or sell his iPad or some thing Xbox too. I'll keep my eyes open for One. Craigslist had a shitty pick up with supposedly a good l20 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 To fix the head bolt, just run a thread chaser tap on that hole. Then you'll be able to finger tighten it all the way down. If the threads are stripped, just buy a Heli-coil kit. It's easy, NAPA will help you choose the correct kit. Bring a head bolt in to help match it up. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 To fix the head bolt, just run a thread chaser tap on that hole. Then you'll be able to finger tighten it all the way down. If the threads are stripped, just buy a Heli-coil kit. It's easy, NAPA will help you choose the correct kit. Bring a head bolt in to help match it up. Pretty sure it is stripped, also pretty sure this hole has been helicoiled before... Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 To fix the head bolt, just run a thread chaser tap on that hole. Then you'll be able to finger tighten it all the way down. If the threads are stripped, just buy a Heli-coil kit. It's easy, NAPA will help you choose the correct kit. Bring a head bolt in to help match it up. Do it! Usually the kits have a short insert but you can order them in various lengths Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Pretty sure it is stripped, also pretty sure this hole has been helicoiled before... Other type of inserts out there . Get a machine shop on it. Why did you change the engine out? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Other type of inserts out there . Get a machine shop on it. Why did you change the engine out? Says at the top... We were doing some head work, head bolt snapped on removal of old head, so then I had a good block. I dont know any machine shops (google can fix that), but just afraid they will charge more than a new short block that is still working. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Something tells me head is coming off tomorrow. Going to compression check it, but I dont like the idea of a untorqued bolt, head warp. Ill get some pics tomorrow, and try to find some options. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I'd take the block that had the snapped bolt In. MIkey has an l16 Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I'd take the block that had the snapped bolt In. MIkey has an l16 That makes me sad, I think this block runs smoother than the snapped bolt one. I might PM him, is he likely to be up for selling it? Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 snapped bolt is easy to extract. weld a nut to the snapped bolt, turn it out. If you're selling it, you'll get more if there's no busted bolt in it. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Im sure the bolt snapped flush as most do if flush one could get a punch and try to bang it out counter clockwire till enought bolt is out to put soem vice grips on it Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I have a l16 block... Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I think H2theizzo has some 1600 bearings for sale ( cheep ) if your crank looks salvageable..Getting threads fixed at machine shop wont be as expensive as new ( used ) engine but if engine has knock you guys might be throwing good money away. There was a 1800 on beaverton craigslist that a guy thought was peanut head and wasn`t so he was selling as whole for $150. i have # but it was a few weeks ago.. Oil filter press having dirt or tiny chunks of metal in it could cause metal to be thin in one or more spots , then it`s just a matter of time before it geysers.. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I do, as a matter of fact... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Just got the head off. Definitely a failed helicoil. Hoping the threads of the original tap for the helicoil are good... Pictures in a few. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 This first picture is 1 hole with a good helicoil that torqued properly These three are the hole in question. To me the hole looks like I could put a new helicoil in and be fine, as in the walls look the same between the two helicoil holes (where the coil is not). Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Look like they need the theads chased. Always do this when refitting head bolts. The bolt holes must be clean and free of oil in order to get a proper torque. Just lightly oil the bolts, but not dripping. You don't want liquid oil causing a hydraulic lock. Quote Link to comment
jon521 Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 i have a L16 running but smokes a bit......and it has an L20b oil pan and pickup tube. i have valve seals to go with it, but those are cheap to get. Quote Link to comment
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