Everything went wrong.

[Laecaon]

Sweet, if we need it Ill let you know.

[wayno]

So Success! I think at least so far.

 

So cleaned up the other head today, new valve stem seals on it. So paint to make it look fresh again. Cleaned up all of the surfaces with a razor blade then some degreaser. Went to put the head on. Everything torqued to 20lbs. Then stepped to 35. Very last bolt to torque in that run suddenly stripped. Oh awesome, well at least we were prepared. Head came off, tapped the hole, helicoiled it. So since we only got to 35lbs on the bolts I figured the headgasket would be fine to go to 45lbs. So then did the steps up to 45lbs. Gonna run it for a few days and then retorque it again, also do another valve adjust since it then had some time to run and settle a bit. Get everything back together. fill the fluids. And we need to jump it since it died trying to get it start last week when everything went wrong, and well other problems which I will get to in a bit.

 

So we jump the truck and it sounds nice and even, maybe a slight valve tick. Find 1 coolant leak out of a heater hose, fix that (just moved the clamp to a new spot and tightened it). Go take it for a test run. Everything sounds great, though I think we need to jet his carb better(I think its currently over jetted, probably would run great on an L18...).

 

So we kill the truck. Then go to start it again and it wont even turn over... Now it will only start with a jump. But since it doesnt die right away after a jump, and that about a month ago we voltage checked it at idle to be about 14.6V, alternator seems fine. We are guessing the battery is dead since it has no power to start, but is fine once it running.

 

So I would call today a success, with just another problem that time creates. Battery has a sticker that says 7/08, and says "ECONOPOWER!" like its a good thing... Makes me think it was a bad battery to start.

 

 

I am curious as to why you only torqued it to 45lbs, as the manual I have says L20b is 51 to 61lbs, I always go to 60lbs. myself. L18 specs call for 47 to 62lbs.

 

EDIT

I just read the first page and concluded you are using a L16 block, and I have no idea what the specs are for it, hope everything works out fine for you, I suppose I should read everything again before I put my .02 cents worth in next time.

[Laecaon]

I am curious as to why you only torqued it to 45lbs, as the manual I have says L20b is 51 to 61lbs, I always go to 60lbs. myself. L18 specs call for 47 to 62lbs.

 

EDIT

I just read the first page and concluded you are using a L16 block, and I have no idea what the specs are for it, hope everything works out fine for you, I suppose I should read everything again before I put my .02 cents worth in next time.

 

I am confident in the threads holding 60lbs, but the part numbers for the headbolts changed I believe between the models...

 

The FSM for the 521, and the 510 say 43.4lbs. So since I have no idea what these bolts were originally intended for, 45lbs seems good to me.

 

Also, on my L18 I was not aware of the higher torque, and am only at 44lbs on that. That car runs nicely, no leaks, smooth idle, smooth through the rpm range, but it burns oil... So I have been putting in 10w40, seems to help a bit.

[banzai510(hainz)]

40/45 pounds on a L16 is fine

[ggzilla]

12.6 volts is undercharging. Fully charged battery should be 13.5-15.0 volts @ 1200 or higher RPM.

[Laecaon]

All fixed now!

 

So old voltage regulator, no matter RPM or lights on, or anything, was a flat 12.8 volts.

 

Put in my wagons voltage regulator, and Idle was at 13.7 volts, and climbed to 14.2 with some RPM.

 

So we went and bought a new one from Napa. New voltage regulator Idles at 13.9, and easily climbs to about 15 volts with RPMs.

 

So we are happy now.

[ggzilla]

On the road again!

[.sunlover]

congratz. Sorry the welding a nut to broken bolt didn't work out for you. glad you got it figured out anyway. Maybe sometime I can show you how. Once you can do it once, you can do it every time, and the look on the people holding drills and easy outs or a hammer and punch's face when you spin it out of its hole easily, is priceless. I wore that look when I saw it the first time btw. Secret seems to be, running from center of broken bolt outward to edge of nut, circling around the lower edge until it's full of material. spraying it with water to cool fast and shrink, and then it spins out easy. Real easy. Mentioning this mostly because I want you to get a decent price out of your l16 block.

[Laecaon]

I think the L16 will either become a side table, or a motor for someone locally that puts up a wanted ad.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Run a volt meter from Equus the one that goes in the cug lighter.

I had 2 Napa volt regs good bad on me fast. The blk ones that are the mechanical type made in USA. One over volt on me and cooked my battery and ruined my chrome valve cover.

 

it was just over 15 volts when running battery got a bulge ,acid oozed out

[Laecaon]

He had a black top one, now it is silver.

black one looked modernized, this silver one looks a lot closer to the VR in my goon.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I use the solid state ones now and if around 25$ I always buy 2

[ggzilla]

it was just over 15 volts when running battery got a bulge ,acid oozed out

 

Yep, if it's a hot day, over 15 volts is overcharging.

 

Voltage for a standard lead-acid automative battery depends on temperature, per Datsun factory manual:

 

Temperature, Voltage

14F 14.0-15.5

32F 14.5-15.5

50F 14.8-15.3

68F 14.2-15.2

88F 14.0-15.0

104F 13.9-14.9

 

If you have an advanced lead-acid battery (AGM, Optima, etc), follow the manufacturer's recommendation on charging voltage. These batteries will last longer if the voltage is more tightly controlled.

[Laecaon]

Bumping the thread again due to cooling issues.

 

So something is amiss, if you hop in the truck and drive it will overheat. If you let it warm up for 5 minutes with the rad cap off it won't overheat. Today I got to be in the truck again as it overheated. Something peculiar I haven't heard of before happened. Gauge red hot. Top of rad felt cold as well as top rad hose. If you release pressure on the cap, the thermostat will suddenly open and everything will be quite warm,and now it won't over heat. I checked the low rad hose, appears to have no vacuum, even under throttle. I did it before relieving pressure on the cap. gonna try changing the thermostat.

[I'm BLUE]

No vacuum on lower radiator hose ? Errrrr me no understand lolz sworry.

 

Low coolant ?

 

Intake blown and gasket area sucking coolant ? ( if coolant passages follow through )

 

Buy a Nissan tstat to be sure ... ;)

 

this doesn't make a lot of sense lol

 

Was the head checked with a flat bar for warpage prior to install ?

 

Head pressure checked for cracks ?

 

Is the radiator blocked or bleeding in air ?

 

:)

[Laecaon]

I can answer some of those questions...

 

No vacuum, I believe partially because the heat lines are open, and the intake manifold has its water passage to the water pump inlet still intact.

 

Coolant is fine. No smoke out the tail pipe. No oil in coolant, no coolant in the oil.

 

I have heard a blown intake gasket, doesnt seem to be the case...

 

Radiator doesnt seem blocked. Head flat? Um I dont have have anything to compare it too...

 

I do know if you let the truck warm up with the cap off, about midway on the temp gauge you will see water flowing into the top of the rad.

 

A new thermostat is going to be tried, as well as making sure is a 1/8th hole drilled in it.

[datzenmike]

There should be a small hose coming out of the thermostat housing that goes across the front of the motor just above the water pump and down to the lower rad hose where it connects to the timing cover. This allows a circulation of water at all times. As the motor warms up the small amount of water will pass the thermostat and tell it to open. If this isn't working, the block can over heat while the stagnant water around the thermostat stays cool enough that the thermostat does not open. Without circulation, it take a long time for the heat in the block and head to travel by convection out to the thermostat mounted on the outside of the head. The fact that allowing the motor to warm up slowly, bears this out, while driving right away causes an over heat condition.

 

If you are not running this by-pass you can get a similar effect by drilling a small hole in the thermostat to allow some flow. Too much and the motor won't warm up very fast. This is why the by-pass hose goes directly to the lower rad hose.

[Laecaon]

Yes, I am aware of this hose and what it does. His truck does not have it. But then again neither does my goon (which doesnt even have a intake coolant hose, offy intake so no coolant lines in it). I know Hainz always says to drill a 1/8th hole in the thermostat.

 

His current lower thermostat housing has no spot for a hose like that. And then I am not sure where to even plumb it, unless it is to "T" into the intake coolant line...

[banzai510(hainz)]

I know Hainz always says to drill a 1/8th hole in the thermostat.

 

For some reason I have had both types. One where it "T"s to the water line to the intake.

Others there isnt a T.

 

My 2 other cars are sidedrfts and I have the heads closed off.soI put a samll 1/8 hole. Its just enough issue but I dont know if it will cure your proplem, More for getting rid of air bubbles and a slight circulation.

Its not a scientific thing I do but I notice I would not overblow the cap(really dump water on the ground thru the cap when shut off) when I did put a new stat in.