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Look like they need the theads chased. Always do this when refitting head bolts. The bolt holes must be clean and free of oil in order to get a proper torque. Just lightly oil the bolts, but not dripping. You don't want liquid oil causing a hydraulic lock.

 

I did run a tap for the bolts prior to installation (well tap I mean a bolt with 3 grooves on the sides...) The other threads all look great, clean, this one just looks like crap.

 

I also cleaned the bolts.

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Im sure the bolt snapped flush as most do

 

 

if flush one could get a punch and try to bang it out counter clockwire till enought bolt is out to put soem vice grips on it

 

or you can spend 20 seconds, 10 of them waiting for it to cool, and just lay a nut over it, and weld it to the flush busted end :) and turn it out. works awesome every time.

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Success! Got a helicoil kit from autozone, it had a tap larger than the current hole. Coil in and bolt goes in properly. Just need to wait for a new headgasket.

 

Now just need to solder the radiator... and pick up a new oil filter and see why the old one got a hole...

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Well double checked the torque, one was off maybe... Still kind leaks, but a very small amount. Eh gonna run it for a few days and then retorque. Slight valve tick on Cylinder 2 I think, easy enough.

 

There will be more descript updates in his actual build thread.

 

And the rising sun under the hood looks amazing!

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A suppose you prepped the head surface and block surface very carefully ... got all traces of old gasket and any traces of oil off before fitting the new gasket... Some guys don't do this and sometimes it works OK, but a thorough cleaning works every time.

 

But I've had leak problems with Fel-Pro PS head gaskets.

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Yea we cleaned it... This 521 has so many more problems than my 510, I don't enjoy working on them. Everything went so buttery smooth when I put the l18 in (well except me dropping the chain). Gonna see what running the car does a few times does. The leak is only like 1 small drop every 15 seconds. 30 minutes of driving and the water level looked the same.

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More frustrations.

 

Now the truck is over heating. Last night we drove it home, everything was fine, gauge read just above midway. Today the truck was driven again, and it overheated, for a small time... Gauge went a bit hotter, but then the puke tube (which is broken off) sprayed coolant everywhere and caused smoking. But it didnt remain overheating, radiator cap closed and no more puking...

 

Given the stated water leak...

There is no smoke out the tail pipe, no oil in the coolant

Still need to check water in the oil.

Timing could be a tad advanced causing aiding in overheating. Maybe the carb is lean, but before you use to see black smoke any time it accelerated out the tail pipe...

 

Also the cap does not seem to be pressurizing the cooling system, we took the cap off and there was no release of pressure. Which this seems odd. I need to double check all hose clamps are tight, not letting in any air. Need to bleed the system, what is a good way for that? Can I just park the car on a slope and then open the radiator cap (also making sure heater is open)? Also not completely sure the soldered radiator is perfectly fixed (greatly reduced though), and that could also be not letting it pressurize.

 

I really just dont want to pull that head off again. This post is kind of a checklist for me, and asking for any other thoughts.

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Were the two alignment dowels in place?

 

Head warped?

 

 

Proper torque sequence from the middle towards the ends. first time 20 lbs, second time 40 lbs and final 60 lbs. Clean lightly oiled threads.

 

RAD

7--8

3--4

1--2

5--6

9-10

TRANS

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No idea about the head, Only 1 of the 2 dowels in place (only was able to find one among 2 blocks).

 

It does have a slight leak just above and right of cyl 4 sparkplug (Didnt really see anything leaking today), and the guide dowel was in the back position on the block. Head gasket looks pretty even throughout on both sides.

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that bolt that snapped off is it the center one with the water passage?????maybe theres a crack.

 

If it leaks most likely it will get worse.

 

soemtimes when I do a new stat it would spill out water also. I would drill a 1/8 hole in top of the stat if you dont have a bypass type lower housing/with heater line to intake

 

Not using the block with the snapped Headbolt. Used the block that was in my goon (only ditched it cuz I had an L18), I had no problems with the block while in my car.

 

I agree about the leak, but one can hope...

 

There is a coolant line from the intake to the coolant inlet (into waterpump) the side that the lower radiator plugs into.

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maybe its a slow drip from the heater Elbow comming out of the head?

Like I said, I need to double check a few things to make sure everything is tight. Yesterday you could watch a water bead, bead up and fall from the head gasket.

 

 

I just went out and place an old FelPro HG, assuming the rear pin is fine, it was installed, moving the front of the headgasket 1mm really does nothing to the water lines (not blocking anyways) and I dont think the front bolts that go into the timing cover would like that very much...

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