Laecaon Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Look like they need the theads chased. Always do this when refitting head bolts. The bolt holes must be clean and free of oil in order to get a proper torque. Just lightly oil the bolts, but not dripping. You don't want liquid oil causing a hydraulic lock. I did run a tap for the bolts prior to installation (well tap I mean a bolt with 3 grooves on the sides...) The other threads all look great, clean, this one just looks like crap. I also cleaned the bolts. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 If the helicoil is stripped out, fit another coil, they are replaceable. It might be much simpler than you think. Quote Link to comment
.sunlover Posted November 18, 2011 Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Im sure the bolt snapped flush as most do if flush one could get a punch and try to bang it out counter clockwire till enought bolt is out to put soem vice grips on it or you can spend 20 seconds, 10 of them waiting for it to cool, and just lay a nut over it, and weld it to the flush busted end :) and turn it out. works awesome every time. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2011 Success! Got a helicoil kit from autozone, it had a tap larger than the current hole. Coil in and bolt goes in properly. Just need to wait for a new headgasket. Now just need to solder the radiator... and pick up a new oil filter and see why the old one got a hole... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Here is a better pic of the before threads: Here is after I ran a tap through: (kinda hard to see the new threads) And helicoil in place!: Yes the tang was broken off. Quote Link to comment
H5WAGON Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 I love a happy ending...:D Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Congrats! Another "Datsun Saved" moment. Quote Link to comment
philcas1987 Posted November 19, 2011 Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Nice. But I still suspect you're friend. At the drop of a hat it's gone Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Oh come on. We got it started again. And now it is leaking coolant from the headgasket on the passenger side. This is a new headgasket. Double checked the torque settings. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Well double checked the torque, one was off maybe... Still kind leaks, but a very small amount. Eh gonna run it for a few days and then retorque. Slight valve tick on Cylinder 2 I think, easy enough. There will be more descript updates in his actual build thread. And the rising sun under the hood looks amazing! Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 21, 2011 Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 A suppose you prepped the head surface and block surface very carefully ... got all traces of old gasket and any traces of oil off before fitting the new gasket... Some guys don't do this and sometimes it works OK, but a thorough cleaning works every time. But I've had leak problems with Fel-Pro PS head gaskets. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2011 Yea we cleaned it... This 521 has so many more problems than my 510, I don't enjoy working on them. Everything went so buttery smooth when I put the l18 in (well except me dropping the chain). Gonna see what running the car does a few times does. The leak is only like 1 small drop every 15 seconds. 30 minutes of driving and the water level looked the same. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 More frustrations. Now the truck is over heating. Last night we drove it home, everything was fine, gauge read just above midway. Today the truck was driven again, and it overheated, for a small time... Gauge went a bit hotter, but then the puke tube (which is broken off) sprayed coolant everywhere and caused smoking. But it didnt remain overheating, radiator cap closed and no more puking... Given the stated water leak... There is no smoke out the tail pipe, no oil in the coolant Still need to check water in the oil. Timing could be a tad advanced causing aiding in overheating. Maybe the carb is lean, but before you use to see black smoke any time it accelerated out the tail pipe... Also the cap does not seem to be pressurizing the cooling system, we took the cap off and there was no release of pressure. Which this seems odd. I need to double check all hose clamps are tight, not letting in any air. Need to bleed the system, what is a good way for that? Can I just park the car on a slope and then open the radiator cap (also making sure heater is open)? Also not completely sure the soldered radiator is perfectly fixed (greatly reduced though), and that could also be not letting it pressurize. I really just dont want to pull that head off again. This post is kind of a checklist for me, and asking for any other thoughts. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Pull the thermostat out ... if it still overheats than you have big problem . if it doesn`t maybe it just needed to be burped. Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 It's not unusual after re-filling the engine coolant. Because the air simply bled off. There was no pressure because it vented out the cap once. Just fill er up, idle it to full temp with the cap off till you see the coolant flow, then top it up. Then enjoy. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Were the two alignment dowels in place? Head warped? Proper torque sequence from the middle towards the ends. first time 20 lbs, second time 40 lbs and final 60 lbs. Clean lightly oiled threads. RAD 7--8 3--4 1--2 5--6 9-10 TRANS Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 that bolt that snapped off is it the center one with the water passage?????maybe theres a crack. If it leaks most likely it will get worse. soemtimes when I do a new stat it would spill out water also. I would drill a 1/8 hole in top of the stat if you dont have a bypass type lower housing/with heater line to intake Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 No idea about the head, Only 1 of the 2 dowels in place (only was able to find one among 2 blocks). It does have a slight leak just above and right of cyl 4 sparkplug (Didnt really see anything leaking today), and the guide dowel was in the back position on the block. Head gasket looks pretty even throughout on both sides. Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Head locating dowels installed ? Errrrr just read post above .... You must have both dowels .... Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 that bolt that snapped off is it the center one with the water passage?????maybe theres a crack. If it leaks most likely it will get worse. soemtimes when I do a new stat it would spill out water also. I would drill a 1/8 hole in top of the stat if you dont have a bypass type lower housing/with heater line to intake Not using the block with the snapped Headbolt. Used the block that was in my goon (only ditched it cuz I had an L18), I had no problems with the block while in my car. I agree about the leak, but one can hope... There is a coolant line from the intake to the coolant inlet (into waterpump) the side that the lower radiator plugs into. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 maybe its a slow drip from the heater Elbow comming out of the head? Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 maybe its a slow drip from the heater Elbow comming out of the head? Like I said, I need to double check a few things to make sure everything is tight. Yesterday you could watch a water bead, bead up and fall from the head gasket. I just went out and place an old FelPro HG, assuming the rear pin is fine, it was installed, moving the front of the headgasket 1mm really does nothing to the water lines (not blocking anyways) and I dont think the front bolts that go into the timing cover would like that very much... Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted November 22, 2011 Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Never assume !!! <----My rule of thumb ... If it is the head or head gasket ... Pressure check at machine shop is $35 or so ? ... Not all gaskets or passage ways are created equal Errrrr this sucks Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 Mike just saw your edit, 60lbs really on the Headbolts? FSM,Haynes (which I think steals info from the FSM), and OldDatsuns.com lists 43lbs... Maybe that could do something. Quote Link to comment
Laecaon Posted November 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2011 And yes, bolts/holes cleaned. Torque pattern followed. Quote Link to comment
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