datzenmike Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Gotta be. :lol: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Notches..... in all Z22 heads. Notice the 'Jet' grinding bit for comparison....perfect match Z24 head.....inspecting progress with mirror... :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Here's my Z head that I did (never completed :lol:) Just to show you that this is the easy part and took about 10-15 seconds each. Should be just as easy in an L head so you don't have to look for one with notches. Quote Link to comment
Ratty260z Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 You could also use a twin weber intake manifold and some TWM throttle bodies or CBperformance throttle bodies and build a surge box similar to a cartech surge box made for z series cars. Before my buddy was going to do the vg swap in his 510 I was going to use his modified twin SU manifold from a roadster and weld on some 280z fuel injected manifold ends and use some throttle bodies to make him a EFI intake manifold, maybe I will if we keep the motor around. Quote Link to comment
Jester Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Sealik: Could you measure the angle of the notch in relation the head gasket surface on your Z22? Pretty sure that is the question he is trying to get answered. Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Sealik: Could you measure the angle of the notch in relation the head gasket surface on your Z22? Pretty sure that is the question he is trying to get answered. I could...but... I doubt that will happen before tomorrow :D Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 They may be close but one is an L series, the other a Z series. All you need is an angle that will work on the outside and inside (not too steep) and not have the spray hit the head surface. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Mike this is the 3th thread started about or L series EFI related, so to save space and to keep all this valuable info in one spot for you and others that will read it, maybe we should start a build thread? One thread where I can move everything into and it's all yours. What do you think? Come up with a new title and I'll change it to that too? II think adding a build thread is a great idea, and just call this build . "Custom EFI Turbo build", if that works for you? Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Alright. This is your EFI project. Page two already. Document everything even mistakes and dead ends, they can be very informative and don't be shy with pictures This is gunna be fun. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Notches..... in all Z22 heads. Notice the 'Jet' grinding bit for comparison....perfect match Z24 head.....inspecting progress with mirror... :D This is a great help. thanks Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 I could...but... I doubt that will happen before tomorrow :D You can only find this on Ratsun, I've spent hours looking.Cool Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 You could also use a twin weber intake manifold and some TWM throttle bodies or CBperformance throttle bodies and build a surge box similar to a cartech surge box made for z series cars. Before my buddy was going to do the vg swap in his 510 I was going to use his modified twin SU manifold from a roadster and weld on some 280z fuel injected manifold ends and use some throttle bodies to make him a EFI intake manifold, maybe I will if we keep the motor around. I thought about going with the weber intake mani, and figured it would be easier with a straight build. Plus its going to look sweet all polished up. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted November 16, 2011 Report Share Posted November 16, 2011 Hey Ztrain, thanks for info. what degree did you install bungs, and how long are your runners? I read the longer the runner the better bottom end? Haven't gotten there yet.My z manifold will be cut down(duh).I will measure so the manifold will clear the boost&then some.But i will make the runners as long as i can.Keep in mind the Z manifold runners are 31mm(I.D) where the L-20b is 35 MM. Quote Link to comment
Ratty260z Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Sometimes it's good to have a smaller intake port then head port anti reversion comes to mind such as any air or gases being forced up from the piston past the valves when they overlap can disrupt the flow of the air fuel mixture but having that step from the smaller intake vs head port can help prevent that disruption. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Good point, I was just thinking about that. Thanks Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Sometimes it's good to have a smaller intake port then head port anti reversion comes to mind such as any air or gases being forced up from the piston past the valves when they overlap can disrupt the flow of the air fuel mixture but having that step from the smaller intake vs head port can help prevent that disruption. I designed it from the port velocity and low speed cylinder filling stand point.The motor is in a truck and the cam is all done by 5500 rpm. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Sometimes it's good to have a smaller intake port then head port anti reversion comes to mind such as any air or gases being forced up from the piston past the valves when they overlap can disrupt the flow of the air fuel mixture but having that step from the smaller intake vs head port can help prevent that disruption. A smaller port diameter will force the air to go faster and the inertia will increase. This will help overcome two things at low speeds. The sudden closing and opening of the intake causes the slowly moving air to stop and then have to accelerate again. The faster it moves, the air will 'pile up' behind the valve and force it's way into the cylinder when it opens. Faster moving air also, through inertia, keeps flowing into the cylinder even though the intake hasn't closed and the piston is 52 degrees past BDC (stock L20B... even more on a camed motor) and rising on the compression stroke The problem is that what works at low speed is very restrictive at high speed. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 OK so my inner diameter of my runners are 1,1/2 inch. Would that be to big? And my ports on the are similar, not sure untill I pull the Weber's off on Friday. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 The problem is that what works at low speed is very restrictive at high speed. True.Pic your specs and build for it.FOr someone road racing a Dime-this isn't a good idea.But for a truck motor?Yup. :cool: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 1.5" is the same as the 219 L16SSS head. L20Bs were typically 1.375" and less.This is for good economy/performance on a street car engine. Opening them up too much drops intake air speed at lower RPMs and this lowers efficiency... even worse with a larger cam. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 Should I be looking for a new head and a stock cam? My cam is 488/266. If what your sayings is correct, that would explain the poor high end power I have now, at low RPM Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 High end would be enhanced by big cam and large diameter runners and ports. This would promote good breathing at high RPMs and the more in ... the more out. In theory with perfect breathing a motor will double the hp with every doubling of RPMs. Big overlap cams with late closing intakes, while very effective at high RPMs, suffer from poor cylinder filling at low RPMs. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 So begins the EFI manifold, here is the materials I'm using that cost $70 Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 Most of this I purchased at harborfreight. I got the metal blade at HF for $15 and the hole saws for $40. Quote Link to comment
DATN510 Posted November 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2011 First cut went kinda slow, I used the flip method on the cuts just went half way on each side. I used a hole punch to start the holes so I would get an even hole. Quote Link to comment
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