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Bagged 521 on 18's


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1. So how much room at full drop do you have between the bed sides and the tire?

2. Could the bed go down another couple inches?

3. Lets say if there where no rockers?

4.O and how much room inbetween the frame and wheels?

 

1. im not really that sure seeing as i havent gotten the bed back on yet. It looks like it is going to be very close, if not just barely touching right in the inset bodyline. (i have thought of a few ways to cheat this if its touching. Space out the bedsides just a touch if its barley touching. Mill 1/4 off the back of the wheels. Flare slightly as a last resort)

 

2. Deff no, the top of my tire is going to hit right about the middle of the bodyline (un body dropped)

 

3. If your planning on dooring your truck, you will deff need a diff front clip to achieve the lift you want.

 

4. Around an inch or a little less.

 

You see theres the problem with the truck being 6x5.5, wheel selection is crap. Right now im running an 8 inch wheels with a 5.5 inch backspacing, when i really want a 7 inch wheel with 5.5 inch backspacing. But in 6x5.5 it is almost impossible to find a 7 inch wheel thats not billet ($$$$). If your wanting to door a 521, your going to need a 7 inch wheel to clear the bedsides, and even that might not be enough. Theres a very good chance that you will have to narrow the axle and the rear frame section too. On my truck im planning on extending the bedsides to meet the rockers to give it a finished look, and i will also be doing this on my next 521 project that will be bodydropped. The body drop project will have a toyo clip, and an rx7 rear (camber helps alot to clear big wheels to the bedside).

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Okay so I measured some stuff today at my personal junk yard.

 

a 320 axle will clear the bed in the narrowest section with the armada wheels on it. It is 3 inches narrower than the 521 axle....

 

1. 521 axle 53"

2. 320 axle 50"

 

All I need to know is if a 320 axle is a h190

 

Doug would know.

 

What about the front? Would the wheels clear the hood if it was a door drop?

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are you sure on those measurements?

I have both a 521 and a 620 diff...seems it was like 50/52

the H190 is the most common live axle in Datsuns. 
It was used in the '66+ roadsters, 
the '66-86 2WD trucks (amd early 4X4s through '83), and the R410 and PL510 wagons. 
No such thing as a H160. 
The  200SXs through '79, and the late (78-81) 510s. 
The 1200 use a H145, and the B210 and 210 used the H150. 

that was from 'holic awhile back...

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Okay so I measured some stuff today at my personal junk yard.

 

a 320 axle will clear the bed in the narrowest section with the armada wheels on it. It is 3 inches narrower than the 521 axle....

 

1. 521 axle 53"

2. 320 axle 50"

 

All I need to know is if a 320 axle is a h190

 

Doug would know.

 

What about the front? Would the wheels clear the hood if it was a door drop?

 

I did some measuring today, it doesnt look like a 18 w/ a 215/35/18 will clear the hood if its doored. To the rocker the tire would just about be on the hood, probably touching it b/c of the negative camber. This was just one of the things i was going to figure as i body drop my next one.

 

Its going to take roughly a 3 inch BD to get down to down to flat rocker (removed pinch). To goto the door its about 5 and a 1/2.

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I am planning on replacing the rails with 2x3x3/16 under the cab (b/c the factory rails are just about 4 inches tall, about an inch gain), and dropping the body mounts about 1 and 1/2 inches (pretty much as much as i can, one of those inches is b/c the rail is shorter). Then i was going to raise the floor as much as i needed to lay the rocker (more than likely have to raise the tranny tunnel a little too b/c of the rail change). This is my plan, im sure it might change as i go along, but i hope to only lose 2 inches or less of headroom in the cab. If your planning on dooring the truck though, i imagine you will lose 3-5 inches of headroom (I hope Ice is short!!!! :D )

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Yeah Dwight, I was thinking about doing that too. Kind of like what I've seen done for the full size chevy pickups, having the frame extend out to where the cab mounts are and have them actually bolt through the frame. I was going to lay the 2x4 tubing on it's side for that portion of the frame.

 

He's pretty much going to be screwed for the bed mounts though! Still kickin' around the idea of making a completely new frame since he wants to go so low.:confused:

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Yeah Dwight, I was thinking about doing that too. Kind of like what I've seen done for the full size chevy pickups, having the frame extend out to where the cab mounts are and have them actually bolt through the frame. I was going to lay the 2x4 tubing on it's side for that portion of the frame.

 

He's pretty much going to be screwed for the bed mounts though! Still kickin' around the idea of making a completely new frame since he wants to go so low.:confused:

 

If your going to lay the 2x4 on its side, you may as well use 2x3. Having that extra inch makes no difference in strength, just adds weight. I personally would never use 2x4 or 2x4 on its side, only vertical.

 

The 2x3 just gets laid in the bottom of the exsisting rail. You cut a window out of one side, the lay it in the bottom, weld it to the exsisting rail, then cut off the top, then lower the body mounts (also known as a stock floor body drop). You can always use the stock back half, but i would be planning on building my own. Bed mounts arent a problem, since you will probably just be using the outer bed panels by the time you get eveything out of the way. But this only gains you 1 inch, so you end up having to channel the cab, or raise the floor.

 

Plus remember, you will need to change the front clip before any of this. Doored you will never get near enough lift to actually drive it with the original 521 suspension. You might as well build a frame table and build a full frame.

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That's what I was thinking. I've got the frame all CAD drawn, it'll be easy for me to put the tire/wheel combo's into the drawing and figure out what will be needed up there. Probably just use yota stuff or 720 parts up there for the ball joints. Once Jeff figures out which wheel/tire combo he's gonna use!

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That's what I was thinking. I've got the frame all CAD drawn, it'll be easy for me to put the tire/wheel combo's into the drawing and figure out what will be needed up there. Probably just use yota stuff or 720 parts up there for the ball joints. Once Jeff figures out which wheel/tire combo he's gonna use!

 

You will need to narrow the front frame section a good amount too. Remember to take that in to consideration.

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So you are saying at full lift I wouldn't be able to turn? if it is a tight fit I will run stock rims. I had a 521 slammed so low it would drag on flat ground :) It was almost tucking rim with 60 series tires, and it turned good enough :D I'm not trying to disagree with you guys, I'm just think it will be drivable....kinda

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So you are saying at full lift I wouldn't be able to turn? if it is a tight fit I will run stock rims. I had a 521 slammed so low it would drag on flat ground :) It was almost tucking rim with 60 series tires, and it turned good enough :D I'm not trying to disagree with you guys, I'm just think it will be drivable....kinda

 

My tire is equivalent to a 185/75/14:

 

Laid:

datsun157qo3.jpg

 

Full lift:

1414359614_l.jpg

 

Now imagine that laid out and lifted pic 5 1/2 inches lower. With a stock rim, you would probably be able to get away with running a short tire, just because of the width of the wheel and tire combo. But riding around maxxed out on the up stops would be like riding a bull thats pissed off. Plus the stock wheel and tires dont do much for me

 

The way im talking about is not cost effective, and deff no longer all datsun parts. But to me it is the most logical, and most drivable way to do what your talking about. I will love to see progress pics as you go along, which ever way you plan on doing it.

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Dwight, I noticed that with yours all the way lifted that the center of the wheel is higher than the bottom of the cab. I looked at a pic of mine, and with mine all the way up, that the center is below the bottom of the cab. I wonder what's different?

 

Diff tire sizes probably. Plus the 620 arms are wider than the 521 arms right??????? Not sure on that one, but im guessing if you fit a 2600 in there, theres gotta be more room. I killed myself getting a 2500 in mine. If i had just a little more room i could get some more lift, but im limited by the bag hitting the kingpin.

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My tire is equivalent to a 185/75/14:

 

Laid:

datsun157qo3.jpg

 

Full lift:

1414359614_l.jpg

 

Now imagine that laid out and lifted pic 5 1/2 inches lower. With a stock rim, you would probably be able to get away with running a short tire, just because of the width of the wheel and tire combo. But riding around maxxed out on the up stops would be like riding a bull thats pissed off. Plus the stock wheel and tires dont do much for me

 

The way im talking about is not cost effective, and deff no longer all datsun parts. But to me it is the most logical, and most drivable way to do what your talking about. I will love to see progress pics as you go along, which ever way you plan on doing it.

 

O I think the toyota arms is a great idea, I'm not a person who gets mad if someone uses none nissan parts. I want to use all 3rd gen RX7 suspension on my dime some day.

 

I agree with you 5 or so inchs will be low.... After talking to you and Beebani I don't think there is any way 18's will fit with a body drop. I don't even think 17's will if its dropped to the doors. Also I don't know how the lift will be on 16's. Time will tell I guess. We got a lot done on the cab today, I'm gonna start a thread in a bit.

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