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610 street demon resurection


bonvo

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this is possible but i for some reason doubt it unless it had the head pulled off in its first three years of life i have records for this motor (original motor in shelly) dating back to 79 and they say nothing about the head ever comming off but as i said there is that three year period that i have no recods for so it is possible

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so am i hence why im looking for one for less then that :P i think ive come up with a plan to fix mine though the one i currently have is from a first gen toyota mr2 look for those in the yards its on the tight rear strut tower in the engin compartment you cant miss it it is also the perfect size for the vw radiators

Edited by bonvo
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if you can, see if you can get a new one for cheaper from baxters or CSK/O'rielly's or autozone or something. if you cant find one for a cheaper price and you have to fix it, i would recommend taking the part off the car and drying it, then use 10 minute cure plastic epoxy(instead of something like JB weld)...use lots of it, then chase the hole the overflow line attaches too with a drill bit. make sure every last bit of the epoxy dust is out of it and flush it with water multiple times after just to be safe, then stick it back on the car.

 

main concern is you dont want a flake of some tough high temperature epoxy like JB weld flaking off and making its way into your cooling system...its highly unlikely that would happen, but still a remote possibility.

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oh its comming off to be done and i plan on using some marine apoxy i have here to seal it since its made to be water tight im going to drill the hole out a little and put a small peice of brakeline in its place

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most plastic epoxies are non soluable, and safe for potable(drinking) water. most resins however, are not. main thing is to pick something that gets hard enough it wont flex or break, but something that wouldnt have the same destructive tendancies a product like JB weld would have if it got into the wrong crevaces,lol.

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most plastic epoxies are non soluable, and safe for potable(drinking) water. most resins however, are not. main thing is to pick something that gets hard enough it wont flex or break, but something that wouldnt have the same destructive tendancies a product like JB weld would have if it got into the wrong crevaces,lol.

 

yeah we have marine apoxy here at the house for fixing plastic parts to the pool filter it hasent caused an issues in the 5 years we have used it

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A little late in my comment, but relating to the "timing chain didn't line up right" issue...

 

So long as the motor was at TDC, and the Cam was set to TDC, it won't matter where the bright links are. The main issue is when you're replacing the cam, being able to line things up without taking off the head to ensure TDC is acheived. Glad the car's running better.. We'll see you at the next big meet in something cooler than a Mitsubishi!!

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yes i will not be rolling in grandmas mitsubishi this time :P and shes running awsome now valves are still a little tight but that will change today i took it out on the backroads last night and she ripped up to 90 real easy :P

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aahhh.......a man of true taste.........a small block revvin hard is a better choice for acceleration in some cases. will it have any extra gauges on the dash? a modern look or the old school?

 

old school with modern touches it will have a few extra gadges as soon as i can afford all electical stuff im not running mechanical for oil pressure or coolent temp not happening those will be going up the a piller

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finished all the stereo wiring now all thats left is to tuck it all and install the deck in the dash

 

edit got bored stereo is done for now it will get a better system later in life but for now it works

Edited by bonvo
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