SK8R SURFR 510 Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 If you can use the larger diameter zx springs there is little room for camber adjustment inside the strut tower. A narrower spring is better. As for adjustable coil overs they are great for racing or if constantly changing tire or spring sizes or rates but otherwise you are spending a lot of money on something you adjust once and forget about. While the spring is off your strut you might consider replacing the factory strut hydraulic fluid with something 'thicker'. The fluid in my Maxima struts was thin (probably 5W) as water and I replaced with 20W motorcycle fork oil. The thicker oil much inproved the damping action. Fork oil comes in a variety of viscosities for tuning bike suspension performance. I trimmed my 710 springs and fit them on Maxima struts that were an inch and a half shorter and replaced the oil. My calculations show a spring rate of about 150 (up from stock 110) when shortened. Love them. Hey Mike, I recently purchased a set of Stock UN Cut 280zx struts with stock oil filled cartridges. I recall on another thread you saying run about 300ml of 20W fork oil. Or was it 325ml ? Cant find the tread stating how much to use. Also my seals on the gland Nut look okay, but anyone sell new ones? And is there another seal that the O-ring sits on top of? They will be going on my 70 510 with a GC coil over kit. Do I also have to worry about any bottoming out? plan to have it the car sit 1.5-2" Lower. I have shortened 280zx struts on it now with GC coil over kit,Spacers,Tein camber plates but my tire and wheel combo(15x7wheel, 195/50/15 tire) rub the fender when turning, still with the Coilover adjuster rings all way up. Thanks. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 27, 2016 Report Share Posted April 27, 2016 It's 'about' 325ml. Just fill them and leave a 1/4" for heat expansion. Extend and collapse them, then hold over your head upside down and expand and collapse to bleed the trapped air. Open and check the level didn't drop much. Refill leaving room for expansion and good to go. Damper should move smoothly and very firmly through the whole stroke. If not then there is still air trapped. 1 Quote Link to comment
SK8R SURFR 510 Posted April 28, 2016 Report Share Posted April 28, 2016 Awesome, Thanks Mike. Quote Link to comment
RJRACIN240 Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 have not seen this done yet, but am interested in doing this on my wagon build. Have a set of 280ZX struts and am interested in removing spring perches and putting 240Z spring perches on shortening struts for inserts and then shortening springs. Also will use 240Z upper mounts and make a plate for camber adjustment and a bit more caster. Interested in any feedback, it will be a daily so not interested in coilovers just looking for a set up that can be built and left alone. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 8, 2016 Report Share Posted May 8, 2016 The zx struts are already shorter than the stock 240z struts. It may be short enough for you without shortening further. What spring rate were you hoping to use? I'm saying shortening the spring stiffens and also lowers the ride height, but you should never set the ride height by trimming the spring. Quote Link to comment
RJRACIN240 Posted May 9, 2016 Report Share Posted May 9, 2016 The zx struts are already shorter than the stock 240z struts. It may be short enough for you without shortening further. What spring rate were you hoping to use? I'm saying shortening the spring stiffens and also lowers the ride height, but you should never set the ride height by trimming the spring. Will have to measure up the struts and see what length the ZX is in comparison to the 510 strut; was hoping for a spring rate similiar to the Mulholland spring rate. Will cut the 240Z springs and adjust the spring perch to achieve this as best as possible. Will either use the 510, 710, or 240 top spring hat as needed and what I can dig up from the attic. Was curious to see if anyone has all ready done this? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Was curious to see if anyone has all ready done this? I've done exactly what you described on 3 different 510s. Worked well every time. 280ZX strut 240Z lower perch, upper perch, and top hat Aluminum plate that bolts to the stock strut tower holes with slotted holes for the 240Z upper hat to bolt to it 240Z springs cut down Did not shorten the housings because it was already low enough for me in this configuration. Going any lower than that would require shorter housings/inserts. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 10, 2016 Report Share Posted May 10, 2016 Will have to measure up the struts and see what length the ZX is in comparison to the 510 strut; was hoping for a spring rate similiar to the Mulholland spring rate. Will cut the 240Z springs and adjust the spring perch to achieve this as best as possible. Will either use the 510, 710, or 240 top spring hat as needed and what I can dig up from the attic. Was curious to see if anyone has all ready done this? What are the Mulholand spring rates? Because with a few easy measurements on your spring and multiplying and divide math you can work out your current spring rate, and from this, figure out how much to cut to get exactly what you want. Otherwise cutting is just a guess and will likely require several trial and error cuts and if you go too far you can't put what you cut back on. I did this on my 710 when switching to Maxima struts. The spring rate formula showed the stock 710 spring was 100 lb/in and removing 1 1/4 coils would increase it to 150 lb/in. Quote Link to comment
McflysDime Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 anyone know where i can find 280zx gland nut? my strut housings came with tokico inserts but no gland nut. It seems that when you purchase new inserts they include the gland nut. is that correct? and is that my only option? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Haven't seen any differences between any Datsun strut gland nuts. All same thread and all struts are 2" diameter. Till mid 80s at least. Quote Link to comment
McflysDime Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Awesome. thanks for the reply Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 13, 2016 Report Share Posted December 13, 2016 Well as long as the after market strut rod is the same diameter it should work. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 14, 2016 Report Share Posted December 14, 2016 the new one in box should match the new insert. and that's if another insert was installed. If it was stock oil filled casing then the gland not will thread on of coarse but don't kow if it locks down correctly Quote Link to comment
CableDroid Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Digging up an old thread... I am about to do 280zx struts with coilover setup on my 510. Should I swap the struts side to side while I am there? Any other thing I should know? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 They are left and right so..... no. You can swap the calipers Quote Link to comment
CableDroid Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Gotcha. What is the gained advantage swapping calipers side to side? Same advantage on a stock 280zx setup? Thanks!! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 I think only on the 510, the caliper begins to rub the steering knuckle or steering tie rod when the pads wear down. I may have this wrong but it was something related to the pads when worn down. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 What is the gained advantage swapping calipers side to side? This I think only on the 510, the caliper begins to rub the steering knuckle or steering tie rod when the pads wear down. It's the tie rod that it runs into, and it's not just the 510. It's everything that's not a Z/ZX. If you run them with the calipers on the rear side, when you get down to about half pad depth your brakes will go away completely. Took a lot of people throwing away pads only half worn before me, and independently a few Aussies, figured out they would just swap side-to-side. :rofl: Before, the go to fix was bumpsteer spacers, which would give you just enough clearance. 1 Quote Link to comment
CableDroid Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Makes sense. Any brake hose issues doing the caliper swap? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Any brake hose issues doing the caliper swap? None whatsoever. On a 510 the hard line comes up almost dead even with the strut, so the same length hose will work in either direction. Quote Link to comment
CableDroid Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Excellent. Getting my 280zx strut assemblies tonight, converting to coilover tomorrow with T3 sleeves and hat and Summit Racing 7" 175 in/lb springs tomorrow. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 FYI, if you buy 280ZX brake hoses, they are about an inch longer and fit better. You'll probably need new ones anyway. Quote Link to comment
CableDroid Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 You are probably correct. I might luck out and find the hoses from the donor 280zx in good shape....but I usually don't have that kind of luck. Getting the brake master cylinder from the same car. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 I might luck out and find the hoses from the donor 280zx in good shape....but I usually don't have that kind of luck. I used to use the donor hoses all the time, but that was 25 years ago. They were in better shape then. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Fuck! Never though of this. My brakes started pulling to the driver's side couple of weeks ago. Very slight but more if you apply strongly. Thought it strange. Was waiting for better weather to take a look. Additionally after last summer there was a vibration like the rotors had high spots. I took the calipers off to change out the grease seals and sanded the rotors and the pads look.... ok. It didn't fix the problem. Maybe the right side is bottomed and not braking and the left over powers it. To be clear they are '84 Maxima struts and brakes not exactly zx but built on the same platform. Maybe just over 10K on them. Well I had thought of swapping sides years ago after I already had them on but never got around to it. I figured the pads had a long way to go for any trouble. Maybe the easiest fix is to just get new pads for now. Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.