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280zx struts


squatches

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I tried searching for proper filling techniques to bleed bubbles but there isnt too much info.

 

Unfortunately, refilling them with oil went out of fashion about 20-25 years ago when replacement inserts became readily available. As such you won't find a lot of info on the internet.   ^_^

 

A good service manual will tell you though.  :thumbup:

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Hmm, this just occurred to me.. But does anyone have any photos of the original cartridges, or inserts that use the strut housing as a reservoir? Or the proper name so I could look around at some. 

I dont have any seal that holds in my insert. Just the gland nut and a washer(spacer) underneath that. When I removed my insert, it looked like it was welded at the bottom. Im starting to think they might be aftermarket with oil in the housing for cooling properties. Id have to take another look.

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Here's how my 510 was setup prior to me receiving it.

 

280zx strut

1200 Spring & perch

78-81 510 upper strut mount

 

The upper mount hole was enlarged to accept the larger diameter late model 510 upper mount, as well as the top of mount was ground down to avoid hitting hood.

 

The spring perch was also modified, although I'm not totally sure as to how. Perhaps just meaning they were rewelded to ZX strut is what I'm thinking.

 

Anyways, here's a couple pics. Sorry none of the assembly out of the car.

 

20130310_154436_zps0311c7da.jpg

20130310_154450_zpsdea0808e.jpg

UpperStrutMount_zpsf045e627.jpg

20130310_182832_zpse5de850a.jpg

20130310_154417_zps1e0052dc.jpg

 

 

 

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15x7 Rotas, +12 offset, 195/50/15 Falkens

 

That's ZX hub and brakes as well, FTR.

 

Not overly stiff, nor soft. Works well for a DD I'd say.

 

And......confirming rims were sourced from ebay.  :w00t:   Even after shipping to Hawaii, was still the better buy than anything I wanted local.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Question about the 280zx strut swap... I've read when you do this, it naturally lowers the front-end by about an 1".    So when you weld/split collar the 510 lower perch on 280zx strut, if you put it in the exact spot where the 280zx perch was removed, is this the basis for the 1" lower ride height?   Then from here you can lower/raise the lower perch to adjust the font ride height?

 

My 510 is all stock and trying to set it up as a Daily Driver, so I'm not looking to lower it except maybe for the 1" from this strut swap, I think it would have a meaner stance, agreed?

 

Also read where people cut a coil from the 510 spring...its this advisable considering my setup?

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I just did this for my 710 but it may help.

I didnt take exact measurements but it looked like the distance from the perch to the hub on both setups were the same. The strut housing itself was shorter and the rod extension was shorter on the 280zx. This would mean that simply swapping the spring without cutting any coils would result in about the same height. If you want to drop 1" then you could cut half a coil or lower the perch down an inch. I cut a coil and dropped the perch by an inch and still have 2 fingers of wheelgap.

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Hmmm, Im in the progress of doing this right now. I took off the gland nut to expose the insert and oil inside the strut tube.

Correct me if Im wrong, but I believe that this strut insert must not be sealed and it used the oil inside the strut tube as well to dampen..

So if I want to replace this factory oil, should I compress the strut insert and pour out all the oil of the strut tube then fill the strut insert and strut tube with 20W motorcyle oil?

Or do I just leave the strut insert how it is, and pour out the strut tube? And when I refill, how much?

Thanks!

 

The stock damper is in a strut tube filled with oil. It's actually very thin hydraulic oil. Usually it and the oil are thrown away and a crappy insert like a cheap shock absorber substituted. What I did was drain the old thin oil and refill with 20W motorcycle fork oil. It comes in a variety of viscosities to make suspension tuning easier on a bike. There's nothing wrong with the old valving, to increase the resistance, just use thicker oil that is harder to push through the orifices. Just put the old damper back in and full around it. Put the O ring back and snug the gland nut. Hold the strut upright and fully extend the rod. Then hold upside down and compress it fully. Repeat several times to bleed and air bubbles. Remove the gland nut and replace/top up the oil leaving 1/2" of space for warmth expansion. I tried to get the 'weight' of ATF and there is no real agreement. it's 5 to 12 w but I would definitely say thicker than the stock oil which is close to water. I went with 20W but wouldn't go above 30W in climates where it is cold. I was told the oil will get thicker with the cold and could blow out the damper. I did rebuild my spare 710 goon struts with a slightly shorter coil and split collars to lower it some. The car they are going in is so high in the front it looks like the motor is out. I'm going to try ATF in them.

 

 

 

I went to Granger and found a split collar part# 1L710 I am wondering if this coller would work to place under a spring perch on a 280Z strut for my 510?

 

Eddie

 

Has to be 2" diameter. Mine were rated at 6,000 pounds each.

 

Question about the 280zx strut swap... I've read when you do this, it naturally lowers the front-end by about an 1".    So when you weld/split collar the 510 lower perch on 280zx strut, if you put it in the exact spot where the 280zx perch was removed, is this the basis for the 1" lower ride height?   Then from here you can lower/raise the lower perch to adjust the font ride height?

 

My 510 is all stock and trying to set it up as a Daily Driver, so I'm not looking to lower it except maybe for the 1" from this strut swap, I think it would have a meaner stance, agreed?

 

Also read where people cut a coil from the 510 spring...its this advisable considering my setup?

 

The ride height is dependent on the spring rate not necessarily where the spring perch is located. I wouldn't weld a perch on until you have the full weight on them. Once welded they are on for good. For that I would use split collars so you can adjust them to suit you. And then what's the sense of welding them?

 

Overall you can run the ride height lower with zx struts by a inch and a half (ish) over the stock struts without the risk of bottoming them out. Another way to look at it is the stock 510 strut bottom out long before the zx strut will.

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Where is everyone/anyone getting their shaft collars from? I see plenty online, but who doesn't love instant gratification if it's available? If any chain or generic shops carry them I'd much rather pick them up.

I got some from Granger here in Metairie, LA.

 

Eddie

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Got mine at Fastenal

 

Mike, are your perches free to rotate? I have mine so low that if they rotate, they will rub the tire and I don't want that to happen. I'd like to hear if anyone had a fix or if I need to position the perch higher so it will never hit the tire.

 

The spring is sandwiched between the top hat and the perch with the end of the spring fitting into a notch in the perch. Lots of weight ion them. Tell the truth never thought about it. The perch is round so if it clears it will clear even if it did turn.

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Got mine at Fastenal

 

 

The spring is sandwiched between the top hat and the perch with the end of the spring fitting into a notch in the perch. Lots of weight ion them. Tell the truth never thought about it. The perch is round so if it clears it will clear even if it did turn.

Looking at the perch from above, yes it is round. When you look at the perch from the side, some spots are curved and follow the contour of the tire while other spots are supportive and stright rather then curved. Ill take some pictures later. I more or less just wanted to know if anyone noticed these perches spinning over time. I can spin it with some muscle.

 

I have all of about .060 from my tire to the strut tube, I am also running + offset wheels, 0 or a small negative offset would fix this

That all depends on what wheel width your running. I am going to take measurements but I want as fat as fits.

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