Slamming a z

[jalen]

I have searched and couldn't find anything so i apologize if there is something on here already. But i want to slam my z. not lowered but slammed. But idk the best way to do this. Somebody said to put r32 coil overs on. any ideas?

[Rhapakatui]

Looks like you already found the answer. Read s130 slammage. You were the last to post in it.

[jalen]

But the zx and z suspension are different. thats why the 280z sits the highest out of all the zs

[Rhapakatui]

Ahhh. My bad. I'm a truck guy.

[Skib]

But the zx and z suspension are different. thats why the 280z sits the highest out of all the zs

 

 

its not exactly the same... no. buts the the same type of suspension.

 

just cuz you cant bolt ZX suspension into a Z doesnt mean the methods are much different.

[Skib]

Ahhh. My bad. I'm a truck guy.

 

 

yeah dont mind him........... hes from texas :P

[hellamikey]

Take the wheels off. That's the fastest and cheapest way to make a good car useless. Then after you get tired of it being useless, the next owner doesn't have to fix a fucked up car.

 

"'cuz there's no hard-parked like permanently hard-parked."

[blue72]

Oh this is easy. Ballast, lots and lots of extra ballast.

Then you can get that mad tight negative camber.

[jalen]

I love slammed cars. like pure pontiac kids and my brothers 510.

so what if i did r34 or miata coilovers and 15x8 wheels or 15x10's?

[Laecaon]

I love slammed cars. like pure pontiac kids and my brothers 510.

so what if i did r34 or miata coilovers and 14x8 wheels?

 

Sounds like you need more research. look for cars with wheels you like and try to find the size. Look through build threads to see what people did to lower it. Information is at your fingertips, use it.

[Hardwyre]

I don't think you're going to win too many people over to that argument. This forum seems to be mostly restoration/performance oriented, and slamming a car is diametrically opposite of either of those goals.

 

What is your definition of "slamming"? Do you want the car to be able to sit on its fenders with the tires tucked up inside the wheel wells? Because if that's the case, you're going to have a LOT of work ahead of you. You could just do what the slammed vatomobiles around here do; cut the springs until it sits stupid, then bailing wire them to make sure they don't jump out of the carriages.

 

Now if your definition is more like "tucking" a car, then you might catch a mind or two. If you want it to just sit with the tires tucked a bit into the wells, you're probably going to need deep coil overs.

 

This is about the extreme limit of tolerable:

 

Expect to be changing your rear times out almost annually if you do any driving with it.

 

Another trick to get the "slammed" look without actually fucking up your driveability is to use the fender extensions, like this:

 

 

Shit like this will most likely result in slappings:

 

 

Because it results in shit like this:

 

 

If you REALLY want to slam your car, please do it to something other than a Datsun. There's hardly enough of them around to begin with.

[FoxyRoadster]

I don't think you're going to win too many people over to that argument. This forum seems to be mostly restoration/performance oriented, and slamming a car is diametrically opposite of either of those goals.

 

What is your definition of "slamming"? Do you want the car to be able to sit on its fenders with the tires tucked up inside the wheel wells? Because if that's the case, you're going to have a LOT of work ahead of you. You could just do what the slammed vatomobiles around here do; cut the springs until it sits stupid, then bailing wire them to make sure they don't jump out of the carriages.

 

Now if your definition is more like "tucking" a car, then you might catch a mind or two. If you want it to just sit with the tires tucked a bit into the wells, you're probably going to need deep coil overs.

 

This is about the extreme limit of tolerable:

 

Expect to be changing your rear times out almost annually if you do any driving with it.

 

Another trick to get the "slammed" look without actually fucking up your driveability is to use the fender extensions, like this:

 

 

Shit like this will most likely result in slappings:

 

 

Because it results in shit like this:

 

 

If you REALLY want to slam your car, please do it to something other than a Datsun. There's hardly enough of them around to begin with.

 

Z cars aren't *that* rare.

[Skib]

Z cars aren't *that* rare.

 

 

a clean 240 isnt as easy to snag up for cheap as it usta be :hmm:

[Rhapakatui]

No, but 280s are fairly easy to find. Even where I live. Nothing wrong with modding one to fit your personal taste. As long as you don't trash it when you're done. I think pure Pontiac kid's z is pretty sweet. Wouldn't do it to my ride, but he's done a good job with it.

[FoxyRoadster]

a clean 240 isnt as easy to snag up for cheap as it usta be :hmm:

 

 

Thats the price of the interest in them rising plus the Z and 510 have the "known name" tax as I call it. The average ricer knows what either of these are, I've had a few think my roadster is an MG or some random italian car. lol Though I've noticed the more people pay for a datsun the better its aftermarket supply is as well.

[h4nsm0l3m4n]

R32 coilovers probably wont work. If all you want to do is ruin your car's handling by slamming it to the ground, just keep cutting the springs until you scrape the frame rails on the ground. No extra parts needed.

 

If you actually want to improve your cars handling there are plenty of options for everyone's budget. Lowering springs, illumina shocks, and swaybars is all the handling youll ever need to use. Coilovers are for when you want to run more tire or require custom spring rates. 14 or 15" wheels with low profile tires will lower your car some as well but dont fill in the fender well quite as nicely as 16s or 17s.

[I'm BLUE]

Z cars aren't *that* rare.

 

no ,,, BUT ,,, they are going up in value fast around portland,OR area :blink: ,,, everyone thinks they are gold ,,,

 

All 240z owners want a RUST FREE ,,, body ,,, :unsure: ,,, very few abailable :lol: ,,, unless $$$ :o :lol:

 

although OR and WA seems to have a few more roadsters available ,,, and even moar Z's :D :lol:

 

280z's seem to be fairly plentiful for the area ,,, for naow :)

 

 

As the years go by ,,, even the last few 240z-260z-280z cars,,, they have DEF gone up in value ,,,

 

AND ,,, we all have this mentality " I can always get one later " ,,,

 

THEN ,,,

 

POOF !!! There gone :huh: :mellow:

 

 

Damn I wish I had some space to collect em all :lol: :D

[Gary]

if you want to see, break out the tools :D

 

start by measuring ride height as it is, getting a reference point of some kind

 

the simplest way ive found then is just to remove suspension (or just the springs, depends what you have under there), loosen up pivot points (dont always need to), put the wheels back on and get some nice and tall blocks/ramps under them, then slowly lower the car with your jack until you get a height you want. stock wheels should be able to go deep enough into the guards for you to get what you want - at least enough for something else to hit chassis first :D

 

if you used something nice and tall to hold the wheels up, you can get some jackstands somewhere under the car to protect yourself, then slide under and have a peek at what needs doing. for live axle cars usually there are tailshaft problems (angle, whether it fouls anything, etc), you need to see if the diff itself fouls on chassis (only live axle though) you need to look at the clearance in the guards for the wheels to see if it needs massaging or outright tubbing (flares and the like are usually for wider wheels so keep that in mind if you've got your heart set on some nice ones)

 

you also need to look at suspension geometry and how much you're going to be affecting it. live axle is usually fine slammed, but IRS tends to camber out a lot. which is sorta good for fitting wheels sometimes but for tyre wear and overall safety (extreme camber anyway) its not good. so you need to look at ways to correct those changes in geometry (anything from bump steer spacers, adjustable A-arms, adjustable LCA's etc - all depending on the suspension setup you have). correcting camber usually means the wheel has to sit further out of the guards which is something to consider, and there are other things to worry about like toe in/out and caster. not always though. you could ignore all of this and just do it, but its not overly safe or comfortable, or practical to do this so careful

 

if you've had a good look and reckon you still wanna tear at it, measure the height you're at, compare it to what you originally measured, then hunt about for the right bits to suit your needs :)

[Laecaon]

I like Z's. I just want a pre '75 one...

[I'm BLUE]

My set-up in my 73 240z ,,, putting a R200diff + Sway bar + Tokico Springs/Struts , Poly bushings , Front and Rear Strut

tower bars + Fatter Front Sway Bar,,, and you'll Love the ride height ,,, not eat your tires either !

 

Handling is GREAT ^^^ !!! ,,,

 

,,, ride height looks "good" ,,, it's lowered ,,, fairly low ,,, not slammed tho !!! ( I can barely make it into a 1/2 the parking lots around town ,,,without scraping my exhaust at least :lol: )

[Laecaon]

 

Those tires have so much life still! Just rotate all the tires. So now the worn part is on the outside!

[Hardwyre]

Those tires have so much life still! Just rotate all the tires. So now the worn part is on the outside!

 

Rotating the tire doesn't change which side the contact patch is on. Also, you can't flip the tires on the wheels since they're a directional tread... well, actually you could flip AND rotate.

[Laecaon]

Rotating the tire doesn't change which side the contact patch is on. Also, you can't flip the tires on the wheels since they're a directional tread... well, actually you could flip AND rotate.

 

Kinda what I meant. RR goes to FL, and RL goes to FR. Its still just a silly thing to do in the first place.

[Hardwyre]

Kinda what I meant. RR goes to FL, and RL goes to FR. Its still just a silly thing to do in the first place.

 

Ah. Yes, agreed. But you know, the more camber the better right?

 

.... right?

 

[HRH]

Yeah, slamming cars is great! The next thing you hear is, oh, I can't come over to your house, I'm driving me "insert slammed car here" and I can't make it up the driveway.

 

Or, oh shit, I don't have any money to fix the really expensive wheel I just trashed because I hit a pothole with 40 series tires.

 

Or, I have a lawsuit against the city for these shitty roads, they broke my suspension! Waaaaaa!

 

Or, I got a flat on the freeway, but I'm stuck there because I can't get the jack under it, help!!!

 

Or, I'm so slammed, my undercarriage was ripped open on speed bump!

 

Or, I'm so slammed, I got stuck ON the speed bump!

 

Driving the Miata around with 13" slicks for testing had my Miata 3 inches off the ground. I bottomed out around one of the corners near my house with suspension compression. Fine for a track car, but a stupid idea for a daily driver. Especially a daily driver that has to contend with potholes, construction zones, dirt roads, or anything other than glass-smooth pavement!

 

So Jalen, here's what you should do instead. Don't go lower, go higher, but make it handle. That way you can go sideways over the pothole and jump the construction zone, yet with perfect driveability! Like this:

 

 

Remember, when the rapture comes, would you rather be driving a slammed Datsun, or a functional Datsun?