280Z 5spd Transmission Clutch Fork

[H5WAGON]

Ok working on my friends 510 wagon......this thing has had lot of previous owner issues....:angry:

 

Problem now is we cant get the clutch to work right. I'm thinking the clutch fork is from a 4spd or something?

 

It came with the same adjustable rod like the 510.....and I have not messed around with 280 stuff to know right off if its the wrong one.

 

Main question is does the Z fork have a hole at the end for the adjustable rod? One Z I saw at the yard does not have the return spring or the hole.

 

Also we put a new slave cylinder on that does not have the return spring. I also took the boot off of the fork to make sure it was on the pivot ball.:unsure:

[datzenmike]

I believe the 280z (up to '78) has the adjustment rod and hole in it, the zx ('79-'83) does not. Also the z 4 or 5 speed clutch arms should be the same. It's possible that this is a 510 clutch arm. However I think this wouldn't matter much. Here's why... below is a picture of a F4W63 4 speed clutch arm. Almost identical to the F4W63 used in the 510 but newer and without the adjustment hole in it. Below it is the clutch arm from a '79 280zx. They are almost identical but for some folds/creases in the 4 speed one.

 

 

 

If you just put this 5 speed in and kept the 280z clutch arm and the release bearing collar you may have problems. I assume you have an L16 or 18 and they come with a 200mm clutch and pressure plate. The z car uses a 225mm PP and has a different length release bearing collar on the clutch arm. I'm saying a 225mm bearing collar won't work properly on a 200mm PP.

 

If your clutch problem is that it is not completely releasing when the peddle is fully down then you may have the wrong collar on there. You need the collar that was on the 510 4 speed.... (and a new bearing)

[H5WAGON]

Also we have a new throw-out bearing and I believe the right slider thing it goes on. It is longer than the extra 4spd one I had laying around.

 

What about the side profile of the fork?

 

I'm just suspect of this because when we got the car and took it apart after the motor failed. It had a smaller throw-out bearing barely pushing on the fingers of the clutch. Missing engine to trans bolts and other crap...:o

 

I will get the number off the trans tonight.....Thanks.

 

 

Sorry its a L20B with the bigger clutch.....not the car in my signature. That one is running awesome.

 

Trans# 7Y20836

 

 

Edit: 200mm clutch.

[datzenmike]

Problem now is we cant get the clutch to work right. I'm thinking the clutch fork is from a 4spd or something?

 

Exactly how is it not working? Slipping and not engaging fully or not releasing fully?

[john510]

I changed my clutch fork from a stock 510 one to the 280z fork it didnt work right.If you look at them closely the z fork is slightly thicker and on my car it was hitting the back of the hole on the transmission not allowing enough throw for the clutch to be right.The solution was to grind away some of the fork until it had enough throw.Before i ground it my clutch would start to grab as soon as i let the pedal up.Check and see if the fork hits the transmission when you push in the clutch.I know the collar and bearing were the right ones and i had no problem until i changed the fork.The original 510 fork cracked,probably from using a very strong pressure plate.

[datzenmike]

Seems to make sense. On my swap I kept and used the 280zx fork with the 280zx 5 speed. No sense mixing parts. I thought the 510 and the zx forks looked very similar. The 510 one may work on the zx but not the other way round?

[I'm BLUE]

:blink: ,,, never seen a z-car or zx car transmission clutch fork with a hole in it ,,, I have owned (4) ,,, 240z/280z "B" 4spd's ,,, and (2) 280zx 5spds ,,, all with no hole/non-adjustable rod ,,, on the clutch fork :huh:

 

good luck :)

 

 

Idk I could be wrong ,,, but my tranny's work just fine :D

[H5WAGON]

Ok so I went to look again last night....bled the clutch again just to make sure. I got the car to move up and down the driveway....let it sit for about 10-15 minutes. Tried again and could not get into gear or move again.

 

When the car moved, the pedal felt pretty normal. Then when I tried the 2nd time it felt like it was binding up....kinda rough.

So I'm thinking master cylinder or something funky with his clutch, but it worked before the motor rebuild....:angry:

Shitty thing is, this was 1st time I ever put a motor and trans in all hooked up as one piece. And may now have to take the transmission out again...:(

 

 

 

 

 

While typing the above, friend calls me with more info. said for sure its a 280zx 81-83 trans, also this is a Centerforce clutch.

 

He is going to check the clearance issue, then we will remove the trans. to check if the fork is bent or cracked. He is also going to find a 280zx arm, said he was calling john with all the z cars in Gladstone.

 

Good thing I'm going out of town for the night.....This car is driving my nuts....:blink:

Thanks again.

[H5WAGON]

My friend calls back after talking to John......says there are 3 diff T/O bearing collars for Z cars.....so the trans is coming out. Taking parts to John to get them sorted out...:cool:

 

Will post pics of what we had and what we end up with.

 

This 510 needs to be on the road.

[banzai510(hainz)]

I see you fuel line is routed funny

I would try to route it under the fender thru that hole near the filter come out the cack by fire wall and maybe you a metal line by the fire wall.

 

as for the clutch the Z cars did use the funky a couple diffent throw out bearing sleeves(collars)

 

By looking at your photo look like the clutch is engaged already?

I wonder if you remobve the slave you the clutch fork move FWD as it should be.

Or is the threaded rod too long pushing on the fork? thus making it looked like its engaged already.

I think i seen here where the colloar might be slightley short and someone put a longer rod in the slave cylinder.

 

In the How to Modifly your datsun/nissan motor there is a Diaphrame height spec.

 

But when it come to clutches Im not positive on the Z car stuff

all I know is on 200mm use 510 t/O bearing and sleeve. Dont matter what trans.

on 225mm I think the L20 620 truck T/O bearing sleeve collar would be fine. as most diaprame height is the same except for the early 240z I believe yiu can use the 510 sleeve.But uses a 255mm bearing

But Im not positive.

 

 

 

Nice carbs. if they cut out alwasy ck the jet blocks as they unscrew out

One way to prevent this is when you have it together on the floor and ck then if feels loose/arm FWD

 

 

Those Pertronix wires I would extend then and wrap them in tape and route by rad supprot then back to coil for a cleaner look. Nice Blue streak cap. Cant find anymore myself but I been running mine for about 7 years. Once electric they last so much longer.

[H5WAGON]

The fuel line and the Petronix stuff will be cleaned up...:cool: This was right before Canby trying to get it all dialed in..:huh:

 

Also using the internal regulated alternator.....have to clean up that area, remove the plug...re-tape harness.;)

Can't see in this picture but Pertronix wires were cleaned up a bit when we put in a new coil.:D

 

The cap is old....but still good!!!!

[H5WAGON]

Ok got the Clutch fork out today this is what we have.

 

 

The one on top in these next 2 pictures is from a 4spd, bottom is from his 5spd.

They look the same......so I for sure have the wrong arm if no 280z 5spd had no hole in arm.

 

My friend is going to see John tomorrow....also took some measurements of the clutch.

 

The one below is the 4spd arm with the 5spd TO bearing & carrier we had.

 

 

Will update when we have the right parts to compare the difference.

[I'm BLUE]

I have owned a few Z-cars ,,, those don't look right to me :blink: ( just like you said ,,, the hole ,,, I don't think it should exist :huh: )

 

Parts comparison is a nice idea :D

 

 

Hope you figure it out man ! :cool:

[H5WAGON]

New Arm......with TO bearing.

Different profile for sure.....Will be putting in tonight...:cool: 280z on the the left.....4spd on the right.

 

Kudos to John for having the right Arm, it was the only one he had.....:D

[datzenmike]

Well I stand corrected on this. FS5W71B arms, though they look similar, are not the same as the F4W63 4 speed. Filed for the future.

[H5WAGON]

I will post another picture when trans is back in with the proper slave cylinder and non-adjustable push rod....:D

 

EDIT: I meant the New Slave Cylinder..

[banzai510(hainz)]

keep us updated on this.

Far as I know the slaves are pretty much the same on the L motors up to the 240sz. they will all work just using the correct rod

[H5WAGON]

Fully compressed. Trans was still out of the car in this picture.

 

Extended....no contact The other arm was touching the back of the window when extended

And yes the slave cylinder is the same size...;) pretty much.

 

Its about time, it has been parked for awhile....:D

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Looks good!

So is it working Now????

 

 

another side note I see a red ignition coil.Is this a MSD Blaster 2?

blaster 2s are .7 ohms and most time you have to add another ballast in series(say around .5 to .85 ohms) with the stock ballast(1.6 ohm ). Cause the Pertronix want the stock resisitance. If more than 4 amps the Pertronix module could Pop.

[H5WAGON]

The coil is from JEGGS.....45,000 volt 1.7 ohm and runs w/resistor.

 

Yes its driving....took a late night cruise last night....:D

 

Video of it running.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxyPadQHK4Y

[banzai510(hainz)]

So It was the clutch fork???????

 

just was wondering if you could have shorten the rod or extended it if need to make it work w/o pulling trans.

[H5WAGON]

Yes it was the fork.....when you look at the side profile, the 4spd one drops down a bit, after the pivot. Putting the recess or hole for the push rod at a lower spot. And the 4spd hit the back of the fork window.

 

He has been driving it....putting some miles on so he can do the 1st oil change.

[napabill]

I know this is an old thread, but the Z clutch fork with the hole in the end is for 70-71 240Z's. They had a return spring hooked through that hole. Later cars went to a self-adjusting slave cylinder with no return spring and no hole in the fork.

[spdcrazy]

well, this thread has been dug up once already, lets do it agin.

 

i'm having very similar issues. l20b in my 521. trans was a 4spd (unk what out of. worked fine other than being loose and tired. swapped in a short 5spd and took with it, the TO bearing, collar, and fork. used the same 225mm flywheel. and installed a new exedy clutch/pressure plate.

 

installed all of the above the fork wont engage the clutch enough. cant adjust the rod on the slave anymore as the fork is maxxed out and touching the transmission window. seems to me I've got the wrong collar? or poss the wrong fork? I thought this was a simple swap as all my readings said just keep the TO bearing collar and fork with the flywheel and clutch setup. it worked on the 4 spd. but not on the five. thoughts?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I believe there are only two types of forks, and the only difference between them is whether or not it's used with an adjustable rod and spring.

 

Sounds like you have the wrong collar and/or bearing.

 

The collar and bearing need to be the same as the clutch, in other words, if you have a 280Z clutch, then you need the 280Z collar and bearing. Of course there are exceptions to this rule.

 

Did you say the same setup was working with a different trans? If so, then check the pivot stud on the front of the trans. It could be broken or missing the washer behind it.