skunk Posted March 7, 2010 Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 So i went and looked at this 76 610 4door today.Not sure if im going to grab it up, the owner is a member here now, its not runing but i think i can get it runing. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 omg O_O you didnt tell me it was that 610 i was considering driving to oregon to get it when i was looking for another 610 it looked farly complete there were only 2 reasons i didnt get it 1 its a 76 i would have to smog it in cali and 2 i wanted a 2 door if i were you i would snag it that car is a complete example and would be easy to get back to driving status Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted March 7, 2010 Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 only thing holding me back is that it is a auto. and i really want a 2 door. i might get it for jessi, so we are thinking on maybe selling the 710 wagon.MAYBE Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2010 i was seriously gonna get it but the one i have now fell into my lap and for less then what that one was going for it was also alot closer its a good car it needs some love but a nice ride i wish i could get it and have a 2 door and 4 door but i cant afford it nor do i have a place to put it Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted March 8, 2010 Report Share Posted March 8, 2010 i was thinking about california smog laws the other day and how anything newer then a 75 has to pass smog well that kinda kills the last year of the 610 odd as well as the 810 as project cars but i remember a conversation with zerow a while back saying to be a legal smog swap i could pull a motor from a newer version of the same car like if i had a 79 810 o could pull the motor from a 80 810 this got me thinking since the 610 and 810 didnt have later models whata about what those models later became? the 610 and 810 are part of the bluebird line which turned into the maxima does that mean i can swap out of a maxima? smog legal vg30 swap anyone? this isnt somthing i have to worry about now that i have a 73 but somthing i thought would be cool to discuss and if this applies then it applies to the later 620s as well and the hardbody ka swap I don't think CA law pays attention to model line, ie:Bluebird, they only pay attention to same chassis lines, so 610 to 610 and 710 to 710 only and so on. You can essentially put any motor into any car, but you are supposed to bring over the smog equipment and be able to pass smog for the model car and year that the motor came from. So, my understanding of the law is that since I "might" have a 1980 280zx motor in my 1972 240z, if I had to smog it, I would be required to pass smog for a 1980 280zx. Scott ser240z is correct, at least on the chassis line, however, the part where he "might" have a 1980 280ZX motor in his '72 240Z and having to pass for the 1980 model year is incorrect. The vehicle is required to pass smog for the year it was manufactured. Here is a blurb from the State of California BAR: "And, Section 3362.1 of the California Code of Regulations prohibits any engine change that degrades the effectiveness of a vehicle's emission control system." As for the chassis line information, the closest you could get is to have a smog referee sign off on the piece of trivia where the 810 and the Maxima were in fact one and the same model for one year (1983) But that swap would be an L24 for an L24, no real benefit there...You could fake it with the L24 though by getting an L28 and painting the block, and keeping the valve cover from the L24. It is called a 'visual inspection' after all... bonvo, back in the day, when '73s had to be smogged, we got away with that by putting L20Bs in the place of L16s and L18s because of 'visual inspection' All the smog shop was looking for was the fact that we had an L-series 4 banger under the hood. Not that it was in fact an L18 for 1973. It was bad enough when more trucks than cars showed up at a particular shop because the 1973 model trucks had L16s... As for the modern motor swap into an older car (like the example you propose with the VG30 you used...) You would be required to use the catalytic converter, ECM, and all necessary plug-ins from the donor car. WHY? Because these are part of the donor vehicle's emission control system. Miss a warning light? Back to square one. Miss a wire? Back to square one. Heck, with us placing a Weber or ... :o SUs on our cars made in 1973, we have effectively violated that section in the CA Code of Regulations. But, who is watching what we put in our smog exempt cars anyway, right? I would play it off at a refereee station anyway ("Officer, these SU style carburetors were used on 1973 model Datsuns...Ever heard of the 240Z...???) Quote Link to comment
ser240z Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Here is the punchline of the 'SU install into a 610' saga. I have yet to do the physical modifiction (bear with me here...), but here goes: You will need one part: The throttle acutator rod from a 240Z. It is longer than the one on the 610. And, grab a drill... Move the bellcrank assembly (which holds the throttle rod and turns horizontal pressure to the twisting needed to open the butterflies on the carbs) to the left by the distance of one attachment point. (the bellcrank has two bolts to the firewall. Remove both bolts. Re-attach the bellcrank to the firewall using the left firewall bolt hole to the right bolt hole on the bell crank. Drill for new left side bolt hole. This will now align the throttle on the SUs with the bellcrank and remove the 'kink' you describe. Re-attach the throttle actuator with your (found) 240Z throttle acutator. You will now have full pedal response (actually you will press the accelerator to 85% of the original pedal travel to get 100% open butterflies on the SUs. I know what you're thinking: Why did I have to do this modification? I have had the luxury of seeing SUs installed from the factory on one 180B, and it came from Australia. The throttle linkage actuator rod is about 16 inches long. This is because it is Right Hand Drive and installed where SUs were smog legal. NO LHD 610 ever delivered to the United States had SUs, so why give it a longer actuator rod? The cars were set up for downdraft carbs only, and now that we are smog exempt, we have the power to add SUs freely without reprucussion from the Smog Check shop. Now we have to mod the cars in ways Mother Nissan never had in mind when the cars were born. Hope this all helps. I think I have solved this without so many steps. Although my car isn't exactly running to get a good test out of it. I got two longer but different sized bolts for the bellcrank, and put a spacer over the bolt closest to the driver's side and bolted it back up. It really just leaned the bellcrank over come, but it was enough to get rid of the kink, and I don't think I lost a whole lot of peddle travel in the process. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of stress on either of the mounting points either, so it looks like it'll work out okay. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts for or against this. Scott Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted March 11, 2010 Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 I think I have solved this without so many steps. Although my car isn't exactly running to get a good test out of it. I got two longer but different sized bolts for the bellcrank, and put a spacer over the bolt closest to the driver's side and bolted it back up. It really just leaned the bellcrank over come, but it was enough to get rid of the kink, and I don't think I lost a whole lot of peddle travel in the process. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of stress on either of the mounting points either, so it looks like it'll work out okay. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts for or against this. Scott Pics, or it didn't happen...! J/K. But seriously, show some pics. I did mine that way I described. What a difference! I have to adjust a couple of other things (nothing major), and I am well underway. Quote Link to comment
610SSS Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 180B/610 SSS J line badges :cool: Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted March 16, 2010 Report Share Posted March 16, 2010 180B/610 SSS J line badges :cool: Hmmm. How much for these...??? :D Quote Link to comment
610SSS Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 Hmmm. How much for these...??? :D I got them with my $120 parts car. :cool: Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted March 17, 2010 Report Share Posted March 17, 2010 I got them with my $120 parts car. :cool: Oh, the luck... :) Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 attention 610 owners !!!!! i spoke to david pare of pare composites https://www.parecomposites.com/browse_parts.php?gid=3&mid=6&moid=3 about a carbon fiber hood for the 610 and this is the email responce i got First of all i would need a perfect hood,both sides it the mold would cost $500 and a part would cost $ 250, but the hood mold would be sturdy enough you could get a 100 runs out it. D.P. so anyone interested in a carbon fiber hood for there 610? i think if we all got together adn split the cost of the mold we could have afordable carbon fiber or fiberglass hoods so im trying to see if theres an interest i want one but 750 for a hood is steep especially considering that the mold will make 100 or so hoods Quote Link to comment
610SSS Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Thats alot of cash just to save alittle weight, For 750 u could turbo the l series and have x10 the fun. :cool: Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 lol yeah i know thats why im trying to see if other 610 guys would be interested the more people in on it the lower the price per hood goes and im not interested in it so much for weight savings i like how it looks and it would save me alot of body work in the future Quote Link to comment
SublimeDatsun610 Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 carbon fiber = rice down here in F'ed up So Ca. i'd have to have a Moby Dick whale tail to go with it. :lol: Quote Link to comment
ser240z Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Sorry think I'm gonna have to pass on the CF hood. Glass fenders and bumpers would be kinda cool though. Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 theres a shit ton of glass fenders on ebay right now i wanna get a left one so i have the early front end on the car Quote Link to comment
zerow Posted March 24, 2010 Report Share Posted March 24, 2010 theres a shit ton of glass fenders on ebay right now i wanna get a left one so i have the early front end on the car Its a problem finding a straight enough example of a stock hood for a mold. Couple that with price for the initial group of hoods. I'm not saying its a bad idea, but the cost is extreme. After paying (lets say) $250 for a hood, and thats after getting 5+ people in on it, you could have spent a lot less to have someone knock out the dents and straighten a stock metal hood. Or go for fiberglass... Also, with all these cats running around putting Rising Suns on the hood, yeah, a carbon fiber hood would be something different. If I already didn't get body and paint done, it would be a nice add for the sedan. There is one more nail in the coffin. I am sure our friends down under would love a carbon fiber hood, but the shipping costs along with the need for guaranteed insurance would be a f-ton of money. Lets count total 610s on this site, and imagine that everybody got one. We're still, what, lemme take a wild guess, at 25-30 hoods total? And we already have votes against? Love the idea, but the cost outweighs the advantage. Quote Link to comment
610SSS Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Half the 610s are in Australia making it more $$$$ for us aussie 180Bers. :cool: Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 eh just an idea figured i would see what kinda feedback it got i was just thinking about it and thought it might be cool and yeah i agree with william the cost is high we would have to get alot of people in on it to be a manageable price Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted March 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2010 heres some 610 ac porn for you guys Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted April 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 wake up 610ers where the hell is everyone lol Quote Link to comment
nbesheer Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Well I'm working on my 610, if that matters. Quote Link to comment
SublimeDatsun610 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 well the list of minor mods and repairs is huge here. everything from, under dash lighting and high intensity lED lighting in the trunk, new sway bar bushings. tach install, replaced my horribly cracked dash pad. even polished my T-stat housing and fuel pump. i made the tach, here is the info on it. i disassembled a dash cluster from a 79-80 b210 carefully removed the tach and the pig tail wire connector. the tach fit perfectly inside the housing for the clock from my 610, no drilling just slight trimming. i made a construction paper backing for the gauge to block the lights. hooked up the black wire to ground and the green to the neg. side of the coil. the existing lights for the clock light up the tach bright, so no worries there. my tach cost me 13 bucks!!!! Quote Link to comment
bonvo Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Well I'm working on my 610, if that matters. good to hear man post pics man well the list of minor mods and repairs is huge here. everything from, under dash lighting and high intensity lED lighting in the trunk, new sway bar bushings. tach install, replaced my horribly cracked dash pad. even polished my T-stat housing and fuel pump. i made the tach, here is the info on it. i disassembled a dash cluster from a 79-80 b210 carefully removed the tach and the pig tail wire connector. the tach fit perfectly inside the housing for the clock from my 610, no drilling just slight trimming. i made a construction paper backing for the gauge to block the lights. hooked up the black wire to ground and the green to the neg. side of the coil. the existing lights for the clock light up the tach bright, so no worries there. my tach cost me 13 bucks!!!! nice work sublime this is similar to what i did with an autometer sport comp tach and the blanking plate Quote Link to comment
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