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78 datsun 4x4 build thread


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Hey guys! Picked up my first Datsun yesterday for 300 dollars. bought it up from a guy i believe is here on the site, ( i assume because he is the one who pointed me here) Im not new to forums and understand the search function very well! this is my first datsun/nissan as i have been a honda guy untill i found an old picture of my dad from the early 80's with a 620 show truck. all about old school. the truck is not currently running but i feel it had enough pros to justify the purchase. Its rockin a dana 30 SAS from a jeep. decent lift, and nice tires with decent tread. Goals are to clean up the wiring, little interior work and performance as always..... now for some pictures

 

datsun1.jpg 600 dollar price tag got it for 30!!

 

datsun2.jpg

 

datsun6.jpg needs starter,coil, battery, ignition lock, and who knows what else

 

datsun3jpb.jpg

 

datsun5.jpg

 

datsun4.jpg shot of the sas

 

there she is, i hope to have her running by the 6th seeing as the 5th is payday! let me know what you think opinions good and bad welcome

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dude this is bad ass. i kind of was thinking about doing this to a 74 std cab i got last month. if you could post some more pics of the underside (front susp. transer case ect) would be much appreciated. bob that bed, we did it to a kc an it looked sick. good luck with the build ill keep an eye to see the progress.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You got any info on the SAS history?

 

When the swap was made, who didi it, any proble-matic details?

 

Oics?

 

I took possesion of an 81 Kc and have been seeking OEM parts

after the earthquake in the orient. Realy looking to keep it

stock, mechanicly but I am open to options.

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The 4x4 conversion was done 'back in the day' probably through the dealer. New 620 were delivered to one of several east or west coast shops that did the conversions using a 'kit'. Datsunaholic know much more about this.

 

The 720 was a factory 4x4 and much different, featuring front IRS. I doubt you will find many Nissan parts over there as old vehicles are removed from use when they reach a certain mileage. (or so I've heard) Best bet is to buy one here for parts or swap your body onto one. Preferably a later '83+ with the larger brakes.

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The 4x4 conversion was done 'back in the day' probably through the dealer. New 620 were delivered to one of several east or west coast shops that did the conversions using a 'kit'. Datsunaholic know much more about this.

 

The 720 was a factory 4x4 and much different, featuring front IRS. I doubt you will find many Nissan parts over there as old vehicles are removed from use when they reach a certain mileage. (or so I've heard) Best bet is to buy one here for parts or swap your body onto one. Preferably a later '83+ with the larger brakes.

 

 

Thanks King.

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It might be A Low Manifacturing conversion. I have discussed Him on other threads. His shop was in Monrovia. Look at the search feature . His trucks had a plate or sticker inside the door by the VIN. Nice find!!!

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That doesn't look like a LOW mfg conversion, though it probably uses LOW hubs (which are now made of Unobtainium). There were a dozen or so converters (they also converted Toyotas, LUVs, and maybe even Couriers in addition to Datsuns), one of my 2 was done by 4WD Engineering (long gone) and looks similar to that, though mine is a '78 so has disc brakes. My '76 has drums. Both used (different) LOW mfg conversion hubs to retain the original Datsun brakes on a Jeep axle. My '78 has a kind of kludgy weld job on the spring perches, the '76 is really nice but the cab was swapped at one point and the conversion dataplates are gone. Every truck I've seen that was professionally converted HAD a conversion plate, either on the doorframe or under the hood. But many have lost the plates.

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  • 3 weeks later...

alright i am a little confused on the wiring for the coil. does anyone have any tips on how to do it or maybe a picture? i have the ground going to the truck body, should it be going to the battery??? i dont think it matters as long as it is grounded well enough.

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Don't ground the coil.

 

Power from the ignition key (in the run position) goes to the ballast resister which drops the voltage to about 8 and from there to the positive side of the coil. The negative side of the coil goes to the points inside the distributor which when they are closed, goes to ground. When starting, there is a separate wire from the ignition directly to the positive side of the coil which by-passes the ballast and gives a full 12 volts to the coil for extra spark while cranking. When the key returns to the Run position after starting, the coil runs on a reduced 8 volts through the ballast resister to reduce arcing and prolong the life of the points.

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  • 3 months later...

Ok so I have been gone for months because I felt like a failure... I just couldn't figure out why it wouldnt start. I now know that it is the ic ignition unit......... Only problem is I can't find one for sale anywhere! Did anyone have a source for old parts and can hook it up? I'm dragging craigs lost like crazy but no luck

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You should be able to get an ignition madule from any parts house...

 

rockauto.com list these.

 

 

1978 NISSAN 620 PICKUP 2.0L 1952cc L4 2BBL (H) [L20B] SOHC : Ignition : Ignition Control Module (ICM) Wiki Price

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # LX513 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers12334610, 22020H7281, D302, E1909} Intermotor

 

Choose: [Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty] ($125.79)[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] (Only 4 Remaining) ($125.79)[Regular Inventory] ($232.79)

$125.79

Add to Cart See Options at Left

ULTRAPOWER Part # LX513

Ignition Control Module/Unit GENUINE INTERMOTOR QUALITY

 

$126.79

Add to Cart

AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 6H1202 {#22020H7281, 88921666, JA114}

Distributor-Breakerless ignition

 

* Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days

$255.79

Add to Cart

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I'm confused

 

Its not the module though

 

But you said

 

Ok so I have been gone for months because I felt like a failure... I just couldn't figure out why it wouldnt start. I now know that it is the ic ignition unit......... Only problem is I can't find one for sale anywhere! Did anyone have a source for old parts and can hook it up? I'm dragging craigs lost like crazy but no luck

 

 

Do you mean the magnetic pick-up in the distributor then? In that case I don't think the part is available separately you would need a complete distributor. That being said it is very rare for a mag pick-up to fail.

 

Ignition module failures are much more common. The bitch about that is the 78' ignition module appears to be a single year part in the 620. That makes it expensive($260.99 at Autozone) and hard to get(Special Order only). I have 2 78'620s and a CA emissions 77' which is also an electronic system. The 77 module was mounted in the same place but uses a different connector making it even more rare(probably).

 

I won't part with any of these since they are in or are for running trucks, but once upon a time I had swapped a 78' distributor and module into my 79' truck because my matchbox module had died and I had it laying around. I have since gone back to the correct matchbox in my 79'. If I can find that extra 78' setup I would be willing to sell it. Here is the problem, it was running when I pulled it out but that was about 15 years ago. Datsun Gremlins may have eaten it since then.

 

My advice to you is to first test the magnetic pickup in your distributor. Here is how.

 

1. Disconnect the red and green wires that come from the distributor where they meet the junction block(usually mounted to the radiator)

 

2. Hook up a Digital Multi Meter to those wires. Polarity is not important because you will be measuring AC voltage.

 

3. Crank the engine while watching the voltmeter display. If the pickup is working you will see a voltage signal. I don't know the spec off the top of my head but as long as you are registering an AC voltage signal you should be good.

 

Next test the coil with the multi meter.

 

1. From negative to positive terminals you should read about 1 Ohm resistance with the coil disconnected from the harness.

 

2. From the negative terminal to the coil wire terminal should be between 7k-11k Ohm resistance.

 

3. Sometimes a coil will pass these tests but still won't run(they fail at a higher current level than the meter tests at). As a professional wrench I have been bit in the ass by this more times than I care to admit. If possible perform a third test by installing a known good coil or by installing your coil into a known running vehicle.

 

4. Coils are typically pretty inexpensive. If there is any doubt just replace it.

 

Once you have verified that you have a good distributor pick-up and coil that leaves the ignition module and related wiring. I assume that money is an issue, so the cheapest, easiest way to get her running is to s#!t can the stock stuff and hook up a GM H.E.I ignition module. $28.99 at Autozone with lifetime warranty and ALWAYS in stock. Add about $10 for wire, some zipties, a few connectors and a roll of electrical tape. Less than $50 to do the job. Here is how to do it. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/17444-electronic-ignitions-for-l-motors-4-cyl/page__p__238815__hl__%2Bchevy+%2Bignition+%2Bmodule__fromsearch__1#entry238815

 

Good luck

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