68Datsun510 Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Yanked out the engine today, blasted off all the crab and split the trans off the block. WHat an enormous mess. THe bellhousing is slicked in oil, and shiny. The clutch is BRAND NEW looking, as is the disc, but its oil soaked, so its garbage >:-(. Stupid shits replacing a clutch and not the main!!! Also finding a LOT of weird bolts on this, 11mm, even a lot of SAE bolts. Redneck mechanics at their worst. When i pulled the trans plate off the back of the block, a lot of oil was trapped in the webbing. Made a big mess. Gotta live the wire wheel'd flywheel too. Another joker fix was installing an electric fuel pump run UNFUSED off the coil power wire. Why not get a new mechanical pump!???!!!? With the DGV, im almost certain the pump pushes too much fuel pressure, hence the carb being a complete mess... Anyway, need a new disk, and a crash course in rear main seal replacement.. ANy other internal parts i should swap while im in there? Rod bearings??? Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Compression tested too today, 135, 100, 90, 120...good enough... lol Assco clutch disk, hahaha... Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 5, 2011 Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 lol@assco Might be a good time to drop the tank out and clean/seal it while your ahead... Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Tank seems ok, fuel filter is see thru, and is decent. Probably will do it anyway =) Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 More redneck engineering, all the bolts that hold the trans plate to the block are retapped to 3/8-24!!! Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2011 Not happy...every damn 8mm hole has been tapped to 1/2" head bolts. What fucking mechanic does this!? Even the 6mm bolts are now 7/16. Looke l ike he used an entire tube of orange RTV as well. Now onto the real issue, the water pump pulley and fan ARENT FOR THIS ENGINE! Whoever did it just drilled a matching pattern of holes into something else. The have massive runout. ANYONE HAVE A J13 WATER PUMP PULLEY AND FAN??? I then move on to the oil pan, which has no gesket, and about a pound of RTV, pull it, get in the rear main, and as suspected, the seal is toast, but i didnt expect to see the bearings worn down to copper! NEED OPINIONS! Can I just toss in new bearings and hope for the best? SHould i bother? Or should i abandon ship now, get L mounts, and go from there? I really wanted to run the J, but this thing needs a LOT of work i think... =( OICS to follow. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Well im a dummy. Turns out J13's are SAE. Who woulda thought? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Well im a dummy. Turns out J13's are SAE. Who woulda thought? Anyone who ever worked on a pre-67 Datto. ;) I know they came stock with L-series engines, but any thoughts about an A14/A15? It would look stock at least... :P Quote Link to comment
Abe Froman Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Turns out J13's are SAE. Who woulda thought? I was reading your thread and just about to tell you that, till I got to the bottom of the page. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 521 could be half SAE or Metric. Lots of 11mm!!!! Asco makes good clutches. I used to use the Roadster version of this brand. Very good dont know where to get them now, never lookd. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 This 11mm ive been finding everywhere! A 7/16 socket works just fine tho. Any opinions on what i should do? Toss in some new bearings? Hope it lasts long enough to get the mounts for an L? It ran perfectly before i tore it down... Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 It ran perfectly before i tore it down... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :blink: Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Hahahah, well, It DID! But, i cant drive it when the bellhousings full of oil!! Bad rear seal :P Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Here are the pics of the ghetto fan and bearings etc. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I think maybe the fan could be backwards, I could be wrong though, maybe it's a modern upgrade design.:lol: :lol: Putting a new rope rear seal in takes some thought, I did a R16 roadster one several years ago, wait, maybe a couple decades, :unsure: I decided to pull it apart after I had put the rear seal in, to see how I did, I was very surprised at what I found, there was a gap between the upper and lower seal ends, :( needless to say I was very glad I was curious about how I did. wayno Quote Link to comment
qship510 Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Cody, I don't know if anyone chimed in on putting an L in a J truck. A buddy of mine did it years ago, and if I remember correctly, the welded-on mounts on the frames are different between L and J trucks. He swapped frames to get around this, but kept the J truck one piece driveshaft. Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Jerry the fabricator suggests a frame swap??? LOL I suppose it could be done, i have a line on an L truck... Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Anyone notice the bent crank pulley? Check the pics ^^ Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 If you have done a frame swap before and have a plan it is easy, if you have never done one before, then it can be overwhelming. It's easier to switch the cab over than welding all the mounts, and the L block truck would have the L block wiring harness with all the wires where they belong. Also you would get the radiator you need. But if you have a L block truck, why would you need to switch anything? :unsure: Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 Cody, check this truck out and what engine its sporting! Looks good to me! http://www.minitruckinweb.com/features/0807mt_1979_datsun_620/index.html Oh yeah, it saves on gas too. Seen the prices lately? Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 I have a line on an L truck thats mostly stripped, theres a Cab, with a BADly rusted roof, rusted floors, and missing maaaany parts. Wirings no issue as im very familiar with datto color coding and such. Frames in good shape though. I just like to have a backup plan for whenever the J13 blows up or i get sick and tired of 50hp or less. Swap frames, a little wiring, BAM, L truck. Im liking this idea... Of course then you have to ask, what OTHER frames fit under a 521 body EASILY? 79 620? 80 720? Definitely wanna stay L though... Quote Link to comment
68Datsun510 Posted April 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 John, hes rockin the J15! With a hitachi? Nice! Fuel cost is why im not DIRECTLY swapping to an L motor. Canbys gonna cost a )*(%&*%&$ fortune!! Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted April 9, 2011 Report Share Posted April 9, 2011 John, hes rockin the J15! With a hitachi? Nice! Fuel cost is why im not DIRECTLY swapping to an L motor. Canbys gonna cost a )*(%&*%&$ fortune!! I got around 32ish mpg in my 521, rebuilt L16, weber carb, a87 head. Would think the smaller engine would get decent mileage too Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted April 9, 2011 Report Share Posted April 9, 2011 I got around 32ish mpg in my 521, rebuilt L16, weber carb, a87 head. Would think the smaller engine would get decent mileage too I would like an L16 to get that mileage all the time. I have had several L series engines and not a one of them got 32mph! Even with the stock carb. Maybe it was my driving style? Sometimes it was. But when I tried to get good mileage 30 was the best I could do and I had to drive like a grandpa to get it. Usually slower than the speed limit. Maybe an A-15 would do better? Quote Link to comment
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