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Doctoraudio's 1969 Snow White Goon


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I was looking at that, yesterday.

 

So, many things to do first.

Move the battery to the rear seat area.

I think I may, raise the center hump too.

Not sure.
But once I start doing the rear panel with fiberglass and the speaker spacers.
I need it to be pretty stiff, plus I need the speakers to point in a 15 degree angle.
Which will start the sound on the right angle for the bass to bounce around quicker.

Also I was looking, I may mount 1 4 way under each front seat. That would take care 8 speakers.
My hatch doesn't leak, anymore so putting a amp or two in the hatch should work.
I have to plan this out right the first time. Otherwise it will look like shit.
Can't have that!

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I am waiting for the Bump steer spacers to show up in the mail.
They have been made and should be here soon.

So I bought some books off of Amazon.
These are what I bought.

How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine

Honsowetz, Frank
Sold by HVF Books

 

51uxfT8vfUL._SY100_.jpg


Haynes Datsun 510 and PL521 Pick-up Manual, No. 123: '68-'73 (Haynes Manuals)
51QPHA77VXL._SY100_.jpg

 

I got all three books for 48 bucks!

 

Should help me figure some things out.

 

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Okay, I have been paying around with my carb.
I tried about 6 different sets of jets.

This is what I came up with!

 

--Primary Main Jet = 140

--Secondary Main Jet = 135
--Primary Air-Correction Jet = 165
--Secondary Air-Correction Jet = 160
--Primary Idle Jet = 60
--Secondary Idle Jet = 50
--Accelerator Pump Jet = 50
--Primary Emulsion Tube = F50
--Secondary Emulsion Tube = F6
--Main Venturi = 3.5 /26
--Booster/Secondary Venturi = 3.5/27

 

There is more power all the way thru and 3 and 4 feel more responsive than before and the acceleration is quicker.
I can pull up hill in forth.
3rd feels much stronger than 2nd.
I  am not touching this any more.
Also slapped a 20 mm spacer under the carb.

 

 

 

I also set the timing at 12 deg BTDC.

I have the 
PerTronix Electronic Ignition in this distributor.
# T3T20389
22100 11W11

I replaced my cap and rotor yesterday. Heck it was on the car for 4 months and it was ugly.
I noticed the pick up was rubbing against the shaft.

I took it a part and bent it back level.
And then put it back in.
There is a gap for sure, now.
There was a spacer for the gap. But I didn't get that from the person I bought it from.
So, I set it to .15.
I think it was more like .33, but I am not sure.

Maybe someone knows?

 

I would be hard pressed, to know that this engine has any more power to offer.

Super punchy.
Bottom pulls harder than before. Most likely it is because, the fuel mixture is higher.
She burns the tire pretty good in 1st and 2nd.
When shifting into 3rd, she pulls hard!
Pulling all the way thru the gear.
Shifting into forth is a continuation of third smoothly.
Fifth gear, holds strong.


 

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Yesterday!
I removed the radiator and all connected to it.
So I could replace my clutch fan/ waterpump.
It was a fail, because the fan does not fit the clutch.

Mother $^%$^%$^%#!

I think I will be switching to an electric fan for f-ing sure.

I will not be taking this off a forth time with-out converting to electric-fan.
Something is telling me to just move into this direction.
So it is written in stone!

 

So here is the fan, I am going to order on the 24th.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/61-62-63-64-65-66-67-68-69-70-71-72-73-74-MERCEDES-BENZ-/290846048724?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b7c681d4&vxp=mtr

$T2eC16Z,!zQFIcE+VLQuBSPOlOjg-!~~60_12.J

This place is in Camas, Washington.
Heck, I bet I can get it cheaper.

The relay setup, I will just build one for it.

 

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If your pedal is dropping while your are sitting, it may be time to upgrade your master cylinder.

Brake fluid is very corrosive and will develop rust on either end of its working area. When you bleed your brakes with an old master cylinder be sure not to achieve full stroke of the cylinder, otherwise you could make tiny slits in the leading cup resulting in a now faulty master cylinder.

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You mentioned the possibility of going through the entire brake system. Not knowing what you want to do, I would say start off with a 15/16 bore master and go from there. People like the ones from the ZX's. I think '79 on up. Check into it as I'm not certain.

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Oh ok. Just rebuild it and you should be good to go. Was it used when you put it on?

When honing the bore, be sure to quikly double stroke the ends of the cylinder with each pass. Otherwise you end up with a bore the shape of a football.

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Okay, I will rebuild it when I get the some other stuff to do it all in one sweep.

I want new lines.
And some other things, while I have it apart.
Also going to replace my water-pump and go electric.
Clutch is locked up and robbing power and fuel.
I am going to tell the wife I am having to double pump the brakes to stop.

So, I can dump a C-note on that section while I am doing the rest.

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