inline4 Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 This is Ratsun!!! Why go buy the bling, when you can do your own thing. Seems like spending big bucks on something like that is unnecessary, and pointless. Other than spending the time to drive to the store, I can't see this project taking you more than 30 minutes. Maybe you can post OIC's of your progress, and gain back all that negative rep you got in, what I believe to be, your simple dilemma. the plan is to hand over the cash and hop in the car and drive off into the noon'set? Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 between the carbs and your stacks. placing them there will interrupt the flow. they need to be on the stack inlet. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 placing them there will interrupt the flow. they need to be on the stack inlet. That is why I would recommend just using the foam between carb and stack, rather than multiple screens. With such low powered cars, is it gonna make a difference? I wouldn't think so. Something a little more beefy? You bet. No matter which way you look at it-it's still sucking air. On the original thread I read about this mod-Owner did dyno's between filters, the foam/screen mod, and open stacks-no change. And this was a 20valve 4AGE in a hachi. Guy was running 175ish bhp. Very small change in both hp and tq. When I say little, I mean like 0.3 +/-. But really, I'm just sayin-there's a way to this with out spending $100 dollars. That money could go else where...like road trip expenses! Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Flat cat i would have to disagree,, while there MIGHT be no noticeable difference at wide open throttle ( which on a 4A-ge is WAY up there) I think trying to sync up carbs with a bunch of screen, foam and whatnot down the stacks at idle may be close to impossible.. And after all the car has to idle just to be driveable..Just my opinion anyway. Quote Link to comment
Shagy Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 on my SU's I made a two tubes that were equal length and put some small VW cone filters on there. This was back in '98 so I'm sure I dont have photos. Someone from the BB list might have had them saved just due to being original. On the 44 mikunies, they had the long stacks and I could not find a single type of filter that would work. the last stack was about 1/4" from the bleeder valve. Ended up cracking. Short stacks....maybe make a box similar to the Z OEM one? Quote Link to comment
Duke Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 I would recommend a "proper" filter like a K&N, Pipercross, or ITG. Filtration and performance will be superior to any kind of slip over type filter. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Flat cat i would have to disagree,, while there MIGHT be no noticeable difference at wide open throttle ( which on a 4A-ge is WAY up there) I think trying to sync up carbs with a bunch of screen, foam and whatnot down the stacks at idle may be close to impossible.. And after all the car has to idle just to be driveable..Just my opinion anyway. Touche'. I'm still new to the whole Datto thing. I keep forgetting the MAP/EFI vs. carbs. I'll get this shit soon enough. Ha. :P Never owned anything with a carb. At least never owned something with carbs I ever gave a shit about. Quote Link to comment
benzo Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 I agree to get a good filtration system but as to which is superior it can go on for days there have been so many claims on whose is better. K+N and pipercross and ITG have been around for a long time and have done many tests to verify that for running such high flow filters they do pretty well keeping things clean. Now I went with my slip overs per my given situation as I wanted that particular look and also for me it was nice and easy. so far to date it is working out nice. before I had the slip on's my velocity stacks would have build up on them and would have to clean them off but so far with the slip on's there has not been build up or it may be taking longer for buildup to happen. as for making filters any low budget idea that can work is great but one thing to remember it is based on your application. some webers do not have horns that screw or bolt on with a flange they slip into the carb so it would be hard to make a filter for those so this is why some people get slip on's like the ones Pierce manifolds or Wolf creek sell where they can go over the horn. Ideally if possible I would rather have a airbox with a filter inside and ducted to cool air. this is nice on L motors as the air box can block out heat to the carbs from the headers which are right underneath and also from some of my dynoing I have done in past a airbox moves the power band or torque sooner for street cars and the longer intake from a intake tube increases when power is happening. that is why now at days you see kits like aem's cold air intakes and also K+N make air boxes with their elements to keep heat out. I have even seen filters that were too restrictive and it hurt performance or hence like the above comment mess up idle and or idle tuning. you will be surprised a lot of research and engineering go into making a filter. I would not mind testing my slip on's though to see the actual test #'s for filtration performance Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Make a fiber glas plenum that bolt on over the stacks and put a cone filter on the end Quote Link to comment
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