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dirt cheap junkyard 510 build


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five years ago, some friends of mine, asked me to build a fresh ass dime, so i started a build the other day, the body was shot and it went this way:

 

 

 

I found a 71 at the junk yard. no motor. body is pretty beat. already had a 5 speed from a 79 b210 or something idk. all the glass and trim was intact and dash was good.

$400 and a AAA tow home and the car was put in the garage

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first thing i did was pull the trans out, build a dolly for the chassis, and pressure wash the shit out of every square inch.

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now, i needed to source some parts. I called up my friend Larry Oka (of Larry Oka Racing for any of you CA SCCA and NASA members) and asked if he had any bits and parts I could put on this 510. Larry has a long history of track prepped 510's, so I didn't surprise me to find he had some extra bits laying around, since one of his racecars was recently flipped at a track event and is out of commission indefinitely.

 

heres the grab:

 

1.8 head

header

lynx sidedraft weber manifold

sidedraft dcoe 40 weber

carrera short struts for the rear

a slotted rear subframe

stiffer and shorter rear springs

shortened front struts with koni yellow inserts, eighbac springs and ground control sleeve and DPR camber plate bearing tops (without the actual plates, still on the wrecked car)

stock carb and manifold

2 unrusted undented fenders off a 69

good condition front valance

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also included was a rebello built, balance, blueprinted, windage trayd n crankscrapered 7K redline 1.6 with HD clutch and pressure plate, which i promptly bolted to my now white 5 speed

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and, I know this was suppose to be a cheap build, and i'm still keeping costs down.

Total money spent on all the parts and motor : zero dollars and zero cents.

yup, free. go ahead and hate me now.

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pulled everything out of the engine bay, gave it the rust treatment and welded up some big rust holes (not pretty but that's ok).

 

pulled about the clutch and brake masters and prepped N cleaned and checked all the seals and then hit them with matte clear and put em back together.

 

completely disassembled wiper motor and assemblies, unseized, cleaned, prepped, rust treatments and painted and lubed and reassembled

 

gave the engine bay a coat of almond. installed camber plates. realized i had to cut towers. cut the towers, gave the tops of the towers a black rust treatment and then later a coat of almond.

 

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pulled out the front crossmember and steering ect

gave it the rust treatment and painted it white.

 

installed engine + tranny + crossmember as one unit, from the bottom using a floor jack. the factory goes in from the bottom, why shouldn't we?

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thats it for now. It's been three weeks since I first got the car, and I feel the progress is moving quite well between school and work and life.

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new starter

new alt

got the engine completed and wiring sorted out. hooked up carb and set it up as best as possible at this point. built throttle and choke cables. put the wheels on and all the suspension bits and got the car off the dolly.

 

engine fires right up and sounds amazing. spits fireballs on decel.

 

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now I just gotta build the exhaust system and sort out the headlights and get the fenders and valance on.

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Totally dig the build!

 

If you don't mind me asking, What's the specs on the Weber, and how does it run. Chokes, idle jet, accelerator pump jet, main jet, things like that. I have the same set-up on my 620, but have been massaging out the flat spot for sometime now. Always curious about other Webers, and how they are tuned, especially ones running multiple cylinders per throat. Most tuning guides you can find are based one throat to one cylinder.

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Totally dig the build!

 

If you don't mind me asking, What's the specs on the Weber, and how does it run. Chokes, idle jet, accelerator pump jet, main jet, things like that. I have the same set-up on my 620, but have been massaging out the flat spot for sometime now. Always curious about other Webers, and how they are tuned, especially ones running multiple cylinders per throat. Most tuning guides you can find are based one throat to one cylinder.

 

well it's a 40dcoe so it's gonna be flat until the higher RPMs by design i think. and it's touchy as all hell. after I get EI for the dist, im gonna take it to a weber guy locally to really dial it in properly. The header and intake mani are more suited for peak RPM HP, as is the size of the carb. throttle response is no good until over 3k rpm prob. on this car, it idles at 800 with the idle screw barely cracked open. and the idle mixtures are about 1 turn or so. the split mani makes it a bit tempermental. But, this motor has a redline of 7k (7500 if you're feeling lucky), so it's sorta built to have a narrow power band.

 

After I get the tune dialed in by a pro I will let you know.

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