HRH Posted February 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2011 Didn't get around to welding the oil pan this weekend. But after two or three hours after work, here's what the hardbody looks like. I managed to forget the 02 sensor was attached too, broke the shit out of that. Oh well, it's a 1 wire, cheap anyway. I'm rapidly finding items to remove yet make sure the smog Nazis don't notice it's missing. They're pretty dumb in Spokane though. They didn't even pop the hood last time and they smogged it as a V6. So nuts to them if I bypass a few things that annoy me and take up extra engine bay space. Mainly that stupid air tube that feeds to the exhaust. It's going bye-bye on re-installation. Probably going to block off the EGR too, since I may not have the tubes in the correct arrangement since I'm using the Z24 bottom with the different block breather. And then I also realized without the KA timing cover, I don't have a thermostat housing. So there's all sorts of bullshit that I didn't think of that is making life difficult.I'm beginning to wish I would have just done a Z22/20b setup and retroed the 200sx EFI onto it! Oh well, gotta get the thing running somehow or another. Barely had enough room to get the motor out too. Flattened both tires completely, still had to weasel it over the core support. Damn low ceilings! 7' high. Refilled in the pic of course.Does anyone know if the car KA dohc or sohc use the metal bracket that bolts to the block and attaches to the manifold? I think I'm going to leave that off as it seems like overkill and makes getting at things a bitch. Quote Link to comment
medengines Posted February 17, 2011 Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 Damn just found this thread...Great info and pics! This is my kinda shit here! What did you use to weld the cracks in the block, looks wire fed. What welder and settings if i may ask? I have ran into blocks that have same problems, would like to repair them. I was thinking of using Tig w/Nickel 55 rod with flux knocked off. Never tried it yet though. Also like the combustion chamber welding deal! I've done the same with a Napz24 head, Alot better power! Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2011 I actually didn't weld the block, my Datsun guru did, not sure what material he used. Did it early before work one morning and didn't pay attention. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 19, 2011 Report Share Posted February 19, 2011 Also like the combustion chamber welding deal! I've done the same with a Napz24 head, Alot better power! You wouldn't happen to have a picture would you? Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 Okay, here's some pictures of the next problem, which actually seems to be easier than I thought. Going to cut off the KA thermostat housing and re-weld where the water neck is on the Z24. Looks like it will work fairly easily. Also have to re-orient the distributor housing. Will have to make the KA dist work and reorient mounting, or use the Z24 body and stick in the KA guts. Haven't investigated that fully yet. Flange appears to be in the same spot for both covers, so drive gear shouldn't be a problem. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey7tGRFLpPE Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 WHOOHOO! Productive day. Went over to mom and dad's about 11am, brought both timing covers and both oil pans. Lucky for us, a good friend of our family who winters in Texas let dad store a plasma cutter for him and of course we're welcome to use it. Nice Lincoln jobbie. We used that to cut the oil pan bell out of the KA pan, then stick it on the Z24 flange. Ended up working out pretty well.Then welded the KA thermostat housing where the old water neck used to be on the Z24 timing cover. Ended up taking about 5 or 6 hours of work. Then as I was heading home I stopped by the Datsun guru's to see if he was working on my new manifold for the 510 and showed him the pan. Dad and I checked it over really carefully, but Joe grabbed some soapy solution and hit the backside of the welds with the air hose! Found 4 leaks. Very small, but Joe welded those up. I can't believe dad and I didn't think of that, but just goes to show, have someone check your work just in case.So now my pan is sealed, going to clean out the little bits of metal and stuff tomorrow, then fit the pickup tube and see if everything goes on nicely. If it does, we'll seal that up and fill with oil, then go about priming the motor. Also need to check the alternator bracket and see if I can use the KA alt on the Z bracket, and if the thermostat is in a good position. It should be dead nuts right between the alt and the intake. Better to fit before the engine goes in though! And here's the oics! Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Okay, and here's the next problem:Going to chop off the rear mount on the KA pickup tube, and reweld the Z24 mount onto the back of it. That will give me the correct depth and secure mounting. I'm not even sure if it really needs a third mount, but seeing as it's an important piece, I think I'll leave that on. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted February 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2011 Okay, didn't get quite as far as I thought today, but made some good progress. Here's a video for you! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoVhdGJEw7c Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 So here's why you should get everything clean before you start assembling. I wasn't going to clean the rest of the dirt off the timing cover but thought maybe I would tonight. I was actually planning on sealing the timing cover tonight and getting the pickup tube and pan on in preparation of pre-lubing the motor. Was cleaning the timing cover off and got to the bottom where there was a little chain gouging, and didn't think anything of it until I found this: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 1, 2011 Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 Better to find now... weld er up if it's that thin. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2011 True that but no aluminum skills or wire. Have to take it to the Datsun guru tomorrow before work. Two steps forward, three steps back! Gracie II better run like a raped ape when I get done with this project! On a side note I saw Gracie I at the store the other day. Stopped the guy, talked to him for a bit, she's still running. I almost thought of buying her back just so I could send you the mileage option Z20 head Mike! ;) Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Yay! Fixed! Oooo! It's my day off, I'm going to try and finally get this motor all put together. Been sick for the last week with a nasty cold, finally feeling better. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 I know the copper rtv isn't the prettiest, but I always use it because it seals the best besides the Right Stuff. I use that for the oil pan and other gaskets. Had blue, but just don't want that shit coming off. I'd rather have an extra 20 minutes of cleaning should removal be necessary. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Well, you guys'll like this. I have a funny video of pre-lubing. It's uploading to youtube as we speak. Here's a pic of the motor in pre-lube state to tide you over. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 haha I know nissan recommends the gray rtv, so i try and use that. I used some napa black rtv on my intake mani, worked fine Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Alright, need to get to sleep so I can go to work tomorrow in the AM. Here's my amusing video of pre-lubing. I'll pick up a few parts when I'm at work tomorrow. ;) Quote Link to comment
I'm BLUE Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 :lol: it happens :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Sealik Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 Was thinking you were also going to 'Exxon' Molly....lying in the fringes.... :lol: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Yeah, I picked up some parts at work today. Second time should go better. Molly escaped, she gets all spooky around big metal objects. ;) Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 The pump would turn the same as the dizzy. :P I thought it was doing to come out the top by the rockers. That was way better. :lol: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Yeah, I was turning it the wrong way to start. Figured it out when I started to use the impact. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Here's a video for the special Datsun pre-lubing tool! :D Sorry Mike, I wanted it easier than your reworked distributor, though it certainly had more cool factor. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 6, 2011 Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 Definitely doing it your way next time. Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted March 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2011 So here's the next problem:The KA dist housing has a larger base to fit the larger sealing width of the KA distributor. Everything else is the same for LZ application. Depth is the same, main shaft diameter is the same. They just decided to make one little change so you can't just stick it in and go. So using a Z24 distributor is out of the question being the 8 plug mess won't work with the 4 plug KA.I can easily use a matchbox 20B distributor I'm thinking. Pretty sure the Z24 dist length is the same. One of the big annoyances is the 4 plug connector of the KA dist though. I'm not sure what all is needed by the ECU to run, if any. Or it may be that the ECU can no longer change timing if using an older model distributor. I'm not opposed to this, but hope it's not too tied into the fuel mapping where I may have detonation issues.So I'm going to go get some helicoils for the valve cover bolts and do a few errands. If anyone cares to pontificate on a suitable fix for this problem while I'm gone, definitely let me know.EDIT: Stopped by my bodyman's house and he said, why don't you just lathe the KA dist down? If there's enough material, that will work freaking awesomely, so we shall see! Quote Link to comment
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