KAZ24 build thread / compression questions / cam / header / DONE!!

[HRH]

Okay, getting ready to eat some breakfast and then heading out to the garage. Have my list of stuff left to do:

 

Lengthen dist. connector

Install diff, driveshaft.

Install radiator, fill and flush with water first.

Wire in new electric fan switch using the dealer installed AC switch (raises rpm 200 to offset load)

I got a new 84-89 Maxima/Stanza fan switch (in the top of the radiator kind part no. FS157 at NAPA) This one was from the wrecking yard since they are usually good for the life of the vehicle and I'm poor between paychecks.

Reattach air cleaner and temp sens connector.

Start truck and pray!

 

 

Provided all is well, going for a 100 mile drive today or tomorrow with varied speeds and continual loading but low rpm.

[datzenmike]

... well not too low. Keep revved up so it has max oil pressure, 2-4K and lean on it a bit. Avoid prolonged idling. Try to be either accelerating or decelerating all the time. (I can't wait)

[HRH]

Yeah, I have a route I take that goes up and over the palouse with lots of curves and uphills/downhills and chances for gear shifting to keep the rpm shifting around. Then after 75-100 miles of easyness (over an hour sustained driving) then it's balls to the wall. I can't wait either, but I'm having a hard time mustering up the courage to go out to the garage. It's still only 38 degrees right now. Going to have to put on the overalls.

[HRH]

Okay, one more thing. While opening up the CAS/dist wiring, it became evident that it was shrouded in steel wire for radio interference purposes. So now I've cut the shielded cable and the thought was to go to the wrecking yard and snip another portion off another car and use that. Seeing as that ruins my timetable and I don't want to go to the wrecking yard for a piece of wire, I have a piece of monster cable that has very fine strands. Think I'm going to cut the insulation off and wrap that around the wires to make a suitable barrier for misfiring due to interference. Hopefully it works.

[datzenmike]

Then after 75-100 miles of easyness (over an hour sustained driving) then it's balls to the wall.

 

Easyness? You want the rings thrust hard against the rough cylinder wally to wear them in as fast as possible before blow-by forms it's own path down beside the pistons. Drive it hard as you like for the first 50 miles, more is better. Going easy does not do it any favors. Exercise builds muscles. :)

[HRH]

EDIT:

 

The guy who did my block work confirmed your idea Mike. 0-70 as fast as you can, downshift through the gears back down. Do that 10 times, good to go.

[HRH]

Okay, here's the progress so far. Going to eat lunch here. This shows the progression of the distributor wire lengthening with shielding wrapped in place. Cut the insulation off some monster wire to use for this. Joe (Datsun guru) did the water outlet for me to mount the new fan switch. Next will be installation of the differential, then back topside for the radiator/fans and fan wiring. Then exhaust pipe goes on and gets attached in some fashion. May just use a big clamp. After that we should be ready to go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[HRH]

 

 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

Excellent.Hey I worked outside on my strut mods in a t shirt! :)

[HRH]

So u-joints are supposed to swivel, right? ;) I went to put the front driveline back in and moved the u-joints back and forth, for some reason they were fine when pulled. Apparently sitting on the floor for 6 months wasn't very happy because I almost couldn't move the one. Just went down to the main store and got two 369 u-joints. Same as a Chevy, go figure. I'll probably inspect the main driveshaft too, but after I get her all back together.

 

Diff is in, everything except the driveshaft is buttoned up. And if you were wondering why it's such a pain, I weighed it. The front diff is right at 90 pounds. The easiest way to get in and out without jacking up the engine is to remove both forward (rear of diff) mounts and their brackets, then the rearward crossmember mount bolts, then the crossmember, then drop out the diff. Have a jack handy or get the truck high enough where you can use your knees to brace it. It sits off-kilter with the extension shaft housing and is a right handful to maneuver without dropping on your belly or the ground.

 

Back out to the garage.

[datzenmike]

C-200 right?

[HRH]

I'm pretty sure it's a C200 in the front. I think the early hardbodies with the Z24 had the R190 still, not positive on that. I took pictures, just finished one u-joint, going to go do the other now. I was going to wait but I'd rather be done on the underside of the truck. Got the exhaust on with a big band clamp, it'll work fine for right now, especially if I change to a header later.

 

The crappiness of my u-joints was pretty evident as two of the bearing cups housed dust, not grease. I'm thinking I may pull off my main driveline and replace those joints as well. That will be after the test run though. Which is looking like tomorrow seeing as I haven't gotten everything hooked up yet. Still have the throttle cable, radiator, fans, fan wiring, and I think that's about it. Should be wrapped up tonight, we'll see.

[HRH]

And here are some pictures. Just need to grease the front diff and put it back in. Ate dinner, man this truck is kicking my ass. Feel like I've been at the gym all day.

 

 

 

 

[Sealik]

30lb more than the 720 front diff

[datzenmike]

R-180... 60 lb

C-200... 90 lb

 

Got it. I sent an R-180 4.375 by bus to a 510 owner and 60 sounds right. He was going to add an LSD to it.

[Sealik]

R-180... 60 lb

C-200... 90 lb

 

Got it. I sent an R-180 4.375 by bus to a 510 owner and 60 sounds right. He was going to add an LSD to it.

 

Ya.....before I swapped a low mile 82 diff for Merlins 200sx EFI, I weighed it.....60lbs

It was going to the States....but...ended up at the coast....?

Destined for a 510...I believe

[HRH]

12:09am: She runs. Had the dist 180 degrees out, apparently it's not 180 degrees out like I originally thought when setting it up. My adjustment is off the charts though. I'm almost wondering if it's just one position off. I'll dick with it more tomorrow. Verified it with the timing light, she's set at 8 degrees btdc now.

 

Also, she made a squealing noise much like when my dishwasher starts the impeller but doesn't have water yet. Rather disconcerting, but it went away after a half second, so I'm hoping it may have been a little leftover water in the alternator. I didn't clean it out well and it had some antifreeze residue. I can't imagine anything internal making the noise as it was fairly loud and high pitched and definitely a squeal like a belt, but moreso, which leads me back to the alternator. The bearings are a little old in it, they might have just had an issue running again.

 

Didn't hook up the electric fans for tonight's start. Will hook those up tomorrow. Definitely had some rattles that were fairly loud, then seemed to get quieter, I imagine it was just the new lifters clearing air. It's smoking from some "high heat" paint on the manifold, so much for that stuff. Other than that, she doesn't make the icky noises the other motor made, but it's too soon too tell anything.

 

I did however look under the truck and there doesn't appear to be any fluid leaking, oil or antifreeze, so that's a good sign. I'm freakin' beat. Going to go to sleep.

[HRH]

EDIT: Called Sunwest this morning on break-in procedure, told 0-70 as fast as you can, downshift back down. Repeat 10 times. So that's what we'll do.

[HRH]

Took her for a test flogging just now. Seems to be running all right. Idle is a little low, need to grind the adjustment on the distributor. Have it set at 6 degrees btdc right now, that's the end of adjustment. Needs a little more advanced, hard to tell if that's initial advance or if I need to move the cam gear to 3. I have it set on 2 to start with.

 

No rattling. Lifters quieted down now, at least the motor is nice and quiet save the turbo whine. What? :D No, the motor has a whine like a turbo, but it was with the other motor also, I'm pretty sure it's the alternator starting to not like it's bearings. May switch that out next pay period.

 

So I'm going to dink with it a little more then get in for the night. I'm way the heck tired after this weekend's fun. Need to do some laundry and I really need to clean up the garage. It's a freakin' wreck. Almost every tool I have is on the ground. I piled stuff out of the way just to drive the truck out. I'll try and take some video here in a bit.

[datzenmike]

Vid? Get r done.

[Sealik]

Vid? Get r done.

 

 

Drum roll please.................................... :D

[HRH]

Video is uploading to youtube right now. Stupid thing made me link to a google account. Anyway, here's a picture. I'm out to go get a movie and test the truck a little more. Set the timing at 11 degrees btdc, she seems to like that a lot more than 6. Probably will have a little bit more pep off the line too.

 

[HRH]

Okay, here you go. PROOF that the KAZ24 build is finished. Took her up to the movie store just now, 11 degrees timing helped quite a bit. Still think it would be a good idea to re-gear, but that's a ways off. I'm going to take her to work tomorrow, probably going to have to oscillate speed on the freeway. I may take extra long and go the slow way to Post Falls on the back roads to get the most up and down pattern for the motor and to put on some more miles so I can change the oil at the 100 mile mark.

 

 

 

Why is youtube being a turd-bucket? I had to look at an older post and edit the "share" code. I wonder if they're setting them all up like that to save space or something? Got it to work finally.

[HRH]

One more issue to address with the electric fan switch setup. It's in the lower radiator hose housing, after the thermostat. It's on the cold side apparently, as the temperature gauge gets almost to the little line before the end of the gauge with the H mark before it kicks the fans on. I talked to Joe about that tonight as his truck is set up the same way. There are two options to fix that.

 

1. Put in a lower temperature switch. I'm using an FS157 which turns on at about 192 degrees. An FS156 is the same switch and connector but turns on at 182. Ten degrees difference makes a good amount, but I suspect it will still not be enough. The gauge is probably going to still read at least 3/4s hot before the fans turn on.

 

2. The other fix is to get another pipe coupling as found stock on the lower hose of the KA, and cut the upper radiator hose, installing the fan-switch-equipped coupling on the upper hose and replacing the lower unit.

 

While going down the road, there isn't a need for the fan to turn on much, and it doesn't at all with the 45 degree days we've been having. Idling is another issue and climbing a hill in the middle of summer certainly brings to mind the need for having the fans operate at a lower temperature. I may do both options and get the lower temp fan switch and install in the other hose.

[HRH]

And follow up:

 

 

Youtube is still being retarded. When you link to something now, it's only a hyperlink. BULLSHIT to that I say!

 

Motor still seems to be running pretty damn well. Definitely more power. I actually out ran a Toyota Corolla up the on-ramp this morning, and was almost to 60 at the top! Holy crap, in the world of slow, it's faster now! (Still dirt slow comparatively to the NX or 510, but quicker than it used to be.)