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Oil type on 1980 datsun b 210 a14 engine


el hevs

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I would not use synthetic oil in your engine, ESPECIALLY if it's not a newly rebuilt engine. The synthetic molecules are smaller, and will find their way through tighter spaces and you'll develop oil leaks you never had before.

The viscosity(weight) of oil you use is completely dependent on the environment in which the vehicle is run, mileage on engine, and what you're doing with it(city driving, highway, racing, etc..).

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I would not use synthetic oil in your engine, ESPECIALLY if it's not a newly rebuilt engine. The synthetic molecules are smaller, and will find their way through tighter spaces and you'll develop oil leaks you never had before.

The viscosity(weight) of oil you use is completely dependent on the environment in which the vehicle is run, mileage on engine, and what you're doing with it(city driving, highway, racing, etc..).

 

Ok thanks, Im in Texas so ill just stick with Valvoline 10w 30 and mostly highway/city

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I'm in Oregon and I run 10w-40. It's a little thicker for on the highway.. but that's just me. I imagine it's warmer down there than it is here, so a little thicker might not be a bad idea.. I'd think you guys would run atleast 10w-40 down there...

 

+1 ^^^ , You get +1 positive rep point Micro :lol:

 

Summer I run = 10w-40 Valvoline ( white bottle )

Winter I run = 10w-30 Valvoline ( white bottle )

 

Highway = 10w-40 as well ;) :D ( unless pretty cold )

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Up here in the NW, we run 10W-30 or 10W-40 mostly. If your engine runs over 230 degrees, use a higher multiweight like 20W-50.

 

 

Nissan recommends these multweight oils for the A-series engine and the Datsun 210:

5W-40

20W-50

10W-40

10W-30

5W-30

The outside temperature only matters for starting a cold engine, and is the first part of the multiweight number: 20Ws are good down to freezing, per the owner's manual chart, while 5Ws and 10Ws are good for colder climates.

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That is a common engine temperature. Since the 1970s many cars are fitted with 212 degree thermostats. And engine oil in most engines runs about 20 degrees hotter than the coolant.

 

Hopefully yall have 180 degrees thermostats, to keep the oil below 200 degrees so that you don't need an oil cooler.

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That is a common engine temperature. Since the 1970s many cars are fitted with 212 degree thermostats. And engine oil in most engines runs about 20 degrees hotter than the coolant.

 

Hopefully yall have 180 degrees thermostats, to keep the oil below 200 degrees so that you don't need an oil cooler.

 

I haven't seen many thermostat's above 195 at most , but am listening to what you are saying :D

 

But again , haven't worked on as many models as I liked to have ;)

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Old time Datsun guys will tell you Fanta Injection is better than Dr. Pepper. But the old Dr. is good for a low pressure drip system, so I don't knock it either.

 

Fanta injection? Grape or Cherry?

 

I hear they have problems with muffler bearings going from the intense heat produced by the sexiness of the cow farts in the combustion chamber. Thats why I run low octane Dr.Pepper.

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Err, I was thinking about the 195, good correction. Trying to do metric conversions in my head is difficult Also thinking about 230 degree underhood temps. That's what killed the Nissan Van.

 

:lol: ,,,, no worries ,,, me understand brainfarts better than most ;) ---> cured with MetalMonkey's Drink of choice ! Da Dr. Peppa ,,,, MetalMonkey47's Dr Pepper paint-job of 2011 ( coming to a Ratsun near you ) :D !

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I use 10W 40 for the Summer time and 10W 30 for Winter time.

 

And if you guys are worried about over heating, then you can always run the car without a thermostat. It works great. My A15 stays at a steady 160 F all day. I am also running an Electric Fan instead of the Stock Radiator Fan.

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I hear you either like or dislike Dr. Pepper. Haven't tasted it since Kennedy was shot. Seems I remember it tasted like Swiss Cream soda? I'll have to try it again. Tastes change with age. I used to hate hotdogs, figs, dates, celery, cucumbers... now I like them.

 

Is there an Dr. Pepper Classic? or is it still the same?

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READ THE FSM!!!!!For my area the FSM says 20/50.Texas,unless you're up near Amarillo-i'd stay with 10/40.And no T-stat is really not a good idea.

 

:blink: calm down man :lol: ,,, I will agree with the no T-stat not being a good idea though , really depends on the situation/area as well :D

 

Don't switch brands back and forth ,,, not really a good idea in theory :D

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:blink: calm down man :lol: ,,, I will agree with the no T-stat not being a good idea though , really depends on the situation/area as well :D

 

Don't switch brands back and forth ,,, not really a good idea in theory :D

 

I am perfectly calm.and in any situation,an "empty waterneck" is NFG.

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:blink: calm down man :lol: ,,, I will agree with the no T-stat not being a good idea though , really depends on the situation/area as well :D

 

Don't switch brands back and forth ,,, not really a good idea in theory :D

 

Whats the problem with no Thermostat? I really wanna hear these answers :D

I've had mine taking off for 3 years now and not one problem. I only put it on during the Winter.

In the summer I take it off.

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The main problem that occurs with a lack of thermostat is overheating, especially during the summer. The thermostat closes and opens to exchange hot for cold coolant between engine and radiator. If said thermostat is removed then ALL the coolant heats up(fairly) evenly, so if the engine starts to overheat theres no cool coolant to lower the temp. In other words if too hot the system may get hotter and hotter, for the lack of a thermostat to let half of the coolant spend some time in the rad cooling down! Along with the of meaningless work putting it in and taking it out twice a year for NO Reason!

 

Is there a reason you take it out every year? Was it giving you problems?

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