Stupid_fast Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Yes I searched, I didn't get the answer I wanted. There are two headers on ebay that fit an L20, one is for a 510, one is a "shorty header". Question: Which one will I want to be sure I can get my car as low as I want(Probably wont be THAT low... on 13"s) and not have to worry about the header? Either? 510 headers, http://cgi.ebay.com/...#ht_1273wt_1167 shorty ones, http://cgi.ebay.com/...#ht_1102wt_1167 I'm in no hurry, planning to get it in the next few weeks. Thanks. :D Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 you want the 2nd one if you really need headers. But they are $150 at Top End performance PS spend another 100 and get them ceramic coated. Fuck Bills datsuns!!!!!!!!!! Nothing wrong with a L16 non smog injected exhaust manifold. Just get a 2in Y pipe made. I have the shorty header but havent used it yet. Unless you have a full race motor most HP gain is in your mind. I only suggest this header if you have a later L20 nasty exhaust manifold you want to get rid of. Quote Link to comment
Skib Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Fuck Bills datsuns!!!!!!!!!! I second this motion. Joque is a grade A shister Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 you want the 2nd one if you really need headers. But they are $150 at Top End performance PS spend another 100 and get them ceramic coated. Fuck Bills datsuns!!!!!!!!!! Nothing wrong with a L16 non smog injected exhaust manifold. Just get a 2in Y pipe made. I have the shorty header but havent used it yet. Unless you have a full race motor most HP gain is in your mind. I only suggest this header if you have a later L20 nasty exhaust manifold you want to get rid of. Cool, thanks. They have the top end performance one on ebay for $20 more than their shop, but its free shipping. http://cgi.ebay.com/...s#ht_2601wt_941 Where to get it ceramic coated? I looked it up, and I don't have a spare oven to cure the paint if I do it myself. The stock manifold is a square-port L20 without the smog stuff though I have to get the exhaust welded back on anyways, so I think a header would be worth it. I'm building for a street prepared autocross/weekend fun car. I'm probably going to tow it to an exhaust shop to get it welded, unless someone from the bay area will do it for me on the street in front of my house on cheap jackstands. :D Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Why do you want a header thay leak are loud and they make the inder hood temps hotter . Are you building a monster l20 or larger? Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 I was told the early L exhaust manifolds are better then headers..... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 The stock manifold is a square-port L20 without the smog stuff though I have to get the exhaust welded back on anyways, so I think a header would be worth it. I'm building for a street prepared autocross/weekend fun car. I'm probably going to tow it to an exhaust shop to get it welded. thats the onee to get rid of.!!!!!!! yes then get the header. PS you find a place that get headers ceramic coated. Look in yellow pages or the web near you. No spray can stuff.!! That header dont use that reducer just get pipe that mates with the downspout and reduce to 2in should be fine Quote Link to comment
nismo dr Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 I was told the early L intakes are better then headers..... they lied.... now exhaust manifolds..... and a big :fu: to Bills Datsun as well - without the smile Quote Link to comment
skunk Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 they lied.... now exhaust manifolds..... fixed........ im baked my bad Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 ^Hawr, thanks for comments. The stock manifold is a square-port L20 without the smog stuff though I have to get the exhaust welded back on anyways, so I think a header would be worth it. I'm building for a street prepared autocross/weekend fun car. I'm probably going to tow it to an exhaust shop to get it welded. thats the onee to get rid of.!!!!!!! yes then get the header. PS you find a place that get headers ceramic coated. Look in yellow pages or the web near you. No spray can stuff.!! That header dont use that reducer just get pipe that mates with the downspout and redec to 2in shooould be fine There is a reply button btw, it puts my message in nice little quotes. Thanks, I'll definitely pick this up then. Just the clutch, header, crossmember and I can drop the engine in! fun. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 i STRONGLY SUGGEST you get them coated. That blk paint rust on about 6 months it makes a nice motor look like SHIT!!!!!!!! http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 i STRONGLY SUGGEST you get them coated. That blk paint rust on about 6 months it makes a nice motor look like SHIT!!!!!!!! http://www.performan...com/index2.html Yeah I just used google and found a few places that do it. Don't worry. :D Did you see my 7MGE exhaust manifold on my yota? I definitely wont let that happen to my 510. edit, Why do you want a header thay leak are loud and they make the inder hood temps hotter . Are you building a monster l20 or larger? They give me slightly more HP, they probably sound nicer? I have to weld the exhaust already? I have an L20b. Funny there are some new earplugs in the ash-trey from the previous owner, along with some coins(rebate!) a hex socket(12mm?), a lighter, a sea shell, ect... OH and there where sunglasses in the glove box! My point is, I don't care about the noise level as long as its legal. My Toyota can be for when I want a quiet car. Quote Link to comment
datsunz Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Too bad the left coast wasn't closer to the right coast. 8) I just finished a set of headers before I logged in. I do a lot of ceramic coating and powder coating. The underhood temp is reduced by the gases flowing out versus the metal absorbing the heat and at high rpm's (where the HP increase kick's in). Good luck My Site www.srpowdercoating.com Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Too bad the left coast wasn't closer to the right coast. 8) I just finished a set of headers before I logged in. I do a lot of ceramic coating and powder coating. The underhood temp is reduced by the gases flowing out versus the metal absorbing the heat and at high rpm's (where the HP increase kick's in). Good luck My Site www.srpowdercoating.com I would go through you but I could not afford the shipping, sorry. <Ahh.. The ratsun salute. Quote Link to comment
Z-train Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 If you are not going to be turning some serious RPMs on a regular basis,the manifold is the way to go. Quote Link to comment
datsunz Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 If you are not going to be turning some serious RPMs on a regular basis,the manifold is the way to go. True, and I can coat them also. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 If you are not going to be turning some serious RPMs on a regular basis,the manifold is the way to go. This is why I bought this car, so I can have something that I can push yet never have to worry about breaking my parents stuff. :D So 8k RPM pulls and clutch drops all the time should not be a problem? True, and I can coat them also. Sorry dude, shipping would probably be too much. I'm on a budget! :( Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 I'm on a budget! :( Another reason to run stock manifolds. Or at least an L16/18. Say $100 header + $100 to coat. That's $200 to maybe gain 3-4 hp at 4K to 6K. Cost $50 per hp. Free or $20 L16 manifold with maybe 2-3 hp gain above 4K. Cost free or up to $10 per hp. and better mid range. Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Another reason to run stock manifolds. Or at least an L16/18. Say $100 header + $100 to coat. That's $200 to maybe gain 3-4 hp at 4K to 6K. Cost $50 per hp. Free or $20 L16 manifold with maybe 2-3 hp gain above 4K. Cost free or up to $10 per hp. and better mid range. Headers are louder. I can afford them. They look nicer. I have to weld my exhaust anyways. I am going to be doing more top end work on the engine after I get it running, maybe dual carbs and a nice cam shaft, valves, port it, ect... The higher flow header will help a little bit more every time I mod something else, correct? Every little bit counts. When we are talking `156whp or 160whp... Its... more... Quote Link to comment
DISLEXICDIME Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Headers are louder. I can afford them. They look nicer. I have to weld my exhaust anyways. I am going to be doing more top end work on the engine after I get it running, maybe dual carbs and a nice cam shaft, valves, port it, ect... The higher flow header will help a little bit more every time I mod something else, correct? Every little bit counts. When we are talking `156whp or 160whp... Its... more... If yourf trying to get that amount of power from a l20b header is the least of your worries you are about to spend a lot of money Quote Link to comment
Stupid_fast Posted August 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 If yourf trying to get that amount of power from a l20b header is the least of your worries you are about to spend a lot of money Yes I know, more like 100whp would be nice to start out with, I'm talking about the future... Whatever I'm getting the damn header. lol. :D 50mm carbs would be nice... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 he has his mind made up allready. You wont change it. This is common on New datsun owners when they want something. I would spemd money on Head,cam match port, and find a dueal carb set up w/1.5in ports. But the way I look at it, if he buys the header they will still make them cause there is a demand. I want to see the car running first. Then spend money on other stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 Been working on my truck since Jan of this year when I got it, just put the header on about 4 days ago and I am still tring to work the kinks out. It is still buzzing the torsion bar every now and again. I am about to rip the damned thing off and put the stock mani back on. :angry: Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 It took one experience with installing a 521 header back in the 70s to teach me a lesson. I thought it would secretly unlock 'hidden' power in my L20B motor. I was so disappointed with it, but had already spent the whole weekend getting it on and had cut the down pipe. For the next several years I had to listen to exhaust leaks and tighten bolts. Fuckit I say. Every generation has to learn this lesson.... you can tell them and they won't listen. So I sit and watch, hoping for the best. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 (It is still buzzing the torsion bar every now and again) yes they do come close. Nice to prefit them, then message the pipe if possible. the headers are not that bad. better than than later L20 manifolds that make the lower intake/exhaust bolts hard to get to. I have 3 L16 ex manis and cant get rid of them. 1 Quote Link to comment
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