Where have all the 70's 200sx's gone?

[amarine1]

Sorry it has taken me several days to answer your post. I'm busy doing everything except working on my cars. You may be the only other guy on Ratsun actually driving a 1st gen SX. It is nice to have some company!

 

An early SX may be a difficult thing to sell. Love of them is somewhat an acquired taste, or maybe weird fetish, or something. Believe it or not, many otherwise loyal Datsun fans actually hate them (along with the F10). But you only need to find one buyer. I have an idea any model Datsun is more rare there in the midwest than out here on the west coast. So fewer people are searching CL for Datsun, and not seeing your ad. Is there a Wheel Deals type car ad paper in your area? Maybe people don't look at them much anymore now that CL is taking over. Running it on eBay is a possibility, but will cost you a bit of money, even if it doesn't sell. I suppose you saw on the other SX thread that the really nice SX from Vancouver WA sold on eBay for $3240. But it was a super nice one with only 41K miles. I don't think your asking price is bad, but I have no idea what someone in your area might actually pay.

 

The one thing I think may help sell it is bleed the brakes, so you can advertise it as drivable. I suspect being able to test drive it, and drive it home, and not mess with renting a trailer, etc. would be a huge factor for many people. Are the brake bleeder rusted so you can't open them? Vise grips, or maybe you can rig a 6-point socket on an impact driver to get them loose. Replace them with new if they are too rounded off. Even if the master or wheel cylinders are leaking, you should be able to get it bled enough so someone can drive it away - so long as they understand they need to work on the cylinders if they are leaking.

 

I don't know what is involved in posting better quality pics on CL. That might help sell it too, if you can post larger, sharper pics with your CL ad. Your test info is great. Much better than 99% of CL ads. Good luck with your sale.

 

Len

 

Hi Len: I just traded the other 200sx to a guy with a 1979 Ford F150 SuperCab XLT w/ a 351m, 4wd, automatic, and a/c (he was selling it for $1,695.00). :-)

 

Now I have a truck that can haul anything that I need hauled. He is going to fix it up through a friend and it will be his wife's local putt around car (so it will get daily use again). Now I can concentrate on fixing the rockers and dog legs of the front fenders on the blue one (that is running like brand new).

 

I will be getting a video done soon of the one I am keeping (of its running). I am looking forward to driving it this year.

[amarine1]

Hi Len: I just traded the other 200sx to a guy with a 1979 Ford F150 SuperCab XLT w/ a 351m, 4wd, automatic, and a/c (he was selling it for $1,695.00). :-)

 

Now I have a truck that can haul anything that I need hauled. He is going to fix it up through a friend and it will be his wife's local putt around car (so it will get daily use again). Now I can concentrate on fixing the rockers and dog legs of the front fenders on the blue one (that is running like brand new).

 

I will be getting a video done soon of the one I am keeping (of its running). I am looking forward to driving it this year.

 

I just drove the S10 into work this morning (wow, the gearing is interesting on the automatics). Almost 4 grand re: rpm's at 65 mph. But it drove smooth with the new shocks (and cost $55.00 to fill up a little over 12 gallons of gas). A shocker when compared to what was expensive in 1984 (around $1.20 a gallon in Southern California) and it costing about $15.00 to fill up at that time. However, I am looking forward to the decent gas mileage of 26 mpg (while many stare at the car while I am driving by..... as in WTF is THAT?????). :-)

 

I spent part of yesterday having the car's front on ramps while checking the starter. Lo and behold, the problem was with the battery (one and a half yr. old MAXX battery from Walmart). Replaced battery under its 3 yr warranty, and it started right up when I installed it. The beautiful thing is, it runs so good, I don't need to touch the gas pedal to start it. (stunning).

 

Immediate issues to contend with:

• The headliner is drooping. There is a flat bar going across the headliner (bendable) that is keeping it up for the most part. I am debating putting in a sun roof.
• The rot / rust on the bottom of the car at the rockers. I need to find someone who will cut metal, shape it, and weld it into the same area so the rockers are solid. Trying to find someone in the Chicagoland area who can do the work on the thin Japanese metal and for a price that won't push me over a cliff.
• I wonder if there is a 4 speed tranny that will fit this car (ties into the L20b) so I would have an overdrive and the revs would be lower at Highway speed.

The brakes work wonderfully. The interior looks like it is less than 5 years old (not bad for a car that came from Alaska). The tires are good, the drivetrain pulls and gets to speed fast, and the looks of the car get stares. SO, for the most part, I am a happy camper. I just need to ditch the minor rot and paint the lower part of the car a matching blue so it looks 100% and won't be an embarrassment at old School car shows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[LenRobertson]

I just drove the S10 into work this morning (wow, the gearing is interesting on the automatics). Almost 4 grand re: rpm's at 65 mph. But it drove smooth with the new shocks (and cost $55.00 to fill up a little over 12 gallons of gas). A shocker when compared to what was expensive in 1984 (around $1.20 a gallon in Southern California) and it costing about $15.00 to fill up at that time. However, I am looking forward to the decent gas mileage of 26 mpg (while many stare at the car while I am driving by..... as in WTF is THAT?????). :-)

 

I spent part of yesterday having the car's front on ramps while checking the starter. Lo and behold, the problem was with the battery (one and a half yr. old MAXX battery from Walmart). Replaced battery under its 3 yr warranty, and it started right up when I installed it. The beautiful thing is, it runs so good, I don't need to touch the gas pedal to start it. (stunning).

 

Immediate issues to contend with:

• The headliner is drooping. There is a flat bar going across the headliner (bendable) that is keeping it up for the most part. I am debating putting in a sun roof.
• The rot / rust on the bottom of the car at the rockers. I need to find someone who will cut metal, shape it, and weld it into the same area so the rockers are solid. Trying to find someone in the Chicagoland area who can do the work on the thin Japanese metal and for a price that won't push me over a cliff.
• I wonder if there is a 4 speed tranny that will fit this car (ties into the L20b) so I would have an overdrive and the revs would be lower at Highway speed.

The brakes work wonderfully. The interior looks like it is less than 5 years old (not bad for a car that came from Alaska). The tires are good, the drivetrain pulls and gets to speed fast, and the looks of the car get stares. SO, for the most part, I am a happy camper. I just need to ditch the minor rot and paint the lower part of the car a matching blue so it looks 100% and won't be an embarrassment at old School car shows.

 

Trading for the Ford PU was probably the wise thing to do, since it sounds like you have a use for it. Likely easier to sell than the SX, if you ever need to.

 

Good you figured out the battery was the problem, before you replaced the starter. If you ever need to replace the starter, consider the gear-drive version used on Maxima and 280Z. They spin the engine over a lot faster, something worth having if you plan to drive the SX during cold weather. A Datsun starter quirk you may not know about - if you ever turn the key to start, and absolutely nothing happens, not even a click, it is worth checking the wire going to the solenoid on top of the starter. It pushes onto a blade type connector, and sometimes this gets loose, or a little tarnished. Cleaning the connection and crimping the fitting so it is a good tight fit on the blade will probably fix it.

 

The fabric headliner is gone in my SX. Mine has a thin molded foam piece the headliner was glued to, and this foam has sagged down from the roof. I need to try gluing it back to the roof, although it will be hard to get it down to glue behind without breaking it. I may just remove it and glue white bead-board insulation to the roof. I did this in a Chevy van I had and it lasted for years. My SX is so shabby inside I don't care about the looks.

 

I'm not sure what you should do about your rust. Considering the value of an SX, you want to think about how much to spend on it. But if you love the car, and the rust really bothers you, you may need to have it done. Or buy a wire-feed, and start learning to weld sheet metal.

 

When you mention a four-speed trans, were you thinking four-speed auto? I don't know if there is such a thing. Maybe an option on the later 280ZX? Of course there is the 5-speed dogleg manual trans that came in the SX, but mine in 5th gear at 60 MPH is turning about 4000 RPM, so I don't know you would gain enough to be worth the trouble and expense of the swap. I don't know if there are optional rear end gears available to reduce highway revs. I suppose the SX uses the same rear end as the 510s of that era, but not sure if it is the same as 620 pickups. Probably not.

 

If you plan to do much work on your SX, it is worth getting a factory service manual off eBay. Usually you can find one on there for $5 to $10, but the only ones I see right now are more like $20. You might watch eBay for a few weeks and see if a cheap one appears. Be sure to get the Service Manual, not the Owners Manual. Both are on there. If you find a cheap one for an SX, it isn't likely anyone will bid against you. The factory manual has way, way more info, especially detailed wiring diagrams, compared with Haynes of Chilton books.

 

Len

[amarine1]

LR: Trading for the Ford PU was probably the wise thing to do, since it sounds like you have a use for it. Likely easier to sell than the SX, if you ever need to.

 

amarine: What was cool about it, is that the person who traded for the 200sx is now going to fix it up for his wife. I still have my 200sx I am keeping, and we get another 200sx owner who will reconstitute his car. A win/win.

 

LR: Good you figured out the battery was the problem, before you replaced the starter. If you ever need to replace the starter, consider the gear-drive version used on Maxima and 280Z. They spin the engine over a lot faster, something worth having if you plan to drive the SX during cold weather. A Datsun starter quirk you may not know about - if you ever turn the key to start, and absolutely nothing happens, not even a click, it is worth checking the wire going to the solenoid on top of the starter. It pushes onto a blade type connector, and sometimes this gets loose, or a little tarnished. Cleaning the connection and crimping the fitting so it is a good tight fit on the blade will probably fix it.

 

amarine1: I will check into what you indicated. Invariably, I have taken the tire iron to the starter to BFH it into starting the past 2 days. :(

 

LR: The fabric headliner is gone in my SX. Mine has a thin molded foam piece the headliner was glued to, and this foam has sagged down from the roof. I need to try gluing it back to the roof, although it will be hard to get it down to glue behind without breaking it. I may just remove it and glue white bead-board insulation to the roof. I did this in a Chevy van I had and it lasted for years. My SX is so shabby inside I don't care about the looks.

 

amarine1: My interior is almost mint. The seats in front need recovering, so I plan on getting with a local furniture repair person to take the seats and stitch new covers for me (front and back) using "pleather". :) Regarding my headliner, the one in the other 200sx I just traded away was a one piece (should've swapped 'em). SO the one I have right now is "hanging". I'll have to take it off and rub off the "crap" in order to use a good adhesive to get it to stay in place.

 

LR: I'm not sure what you should do about your rust. Considering the value of an SX, you want to think about how much to spend on it. But if you love the car, and the rust really bothers you, you may need to have it done. Or buy a wire-feed, and start learning to weld sheet metal.

 

amarine1: The rust will need to be dealt with. I am going to my local repair shop and will see about them taking the F150 in trade for the work replacing sheetmetal and repainting the parts replaced.

 

LR: When you mention a four-speed trans, were you thinking four-speed auto? I don't know if there is such a thing. Maybe an option on the later 280ZX?

 

amarine1: I have a 3 spd auto, I am looking for an electronic overdrive option (if it is possible).

 

LR: Of course there is the 5-speed dogleg manual trans that came in the SX, but mine in 5th gear at 60 MPH is turning about 4000 RPM, so I don't know you would gain enough to be worth the trouble and expense of the swap. I don't know if there are optional rear end gears available to reduce highway revs. I suppose the SX uses the same rear end as the 510s of that era, but not sure if it is the same as 620 pickups. Probably not.

 

amarine1: I'll need to find an old Datsun fanatic who would know such things. ;)

 

LR: If you plan to do much work on your SX, it is worth getting a factory service manual off eBay. Usually you can find one on there for $5 to $10, but the only ones I see right now are more like $20. You might watch eBay for a few weeks and see if a cheap one appears. Be sure to get the Service Manual, not the Owners Manual. Both are on there. If you find a cheap one for an SX, it isn't likely anyone will bid against you. The factory manual has way, way more info, especially detailed wiring diagrams, compared with Haynes of Chilton books.

 

amarine1: Already have them (got off ebay last year) in addition to my books I've had for over 28 yrs.. :)

 

PS: Thanks for the response.

[LenRobertson]

I had this page on trannys Bookmarked: http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/datsun_transmissions.htm

It shows a 4-speed auto for a Maxima RWD with an overdrive 4th gear. This should bolt up to your L20B, although there may be something with the torque converter that would be a problem. Post a question in the Drivetrain category and datzenmike will no doubt know if it will work or not. Or search that category. Maybe the question has been asked already.

 

I have no idea if this is a rare trans. Maybe all the rear drive Maximas used it, or maybe an option. It may be this trans is longer than the 3-spd you have, and you will need to have the drive line shortened. Probably need to fiddle with the trans crossmember too.

 

Len

[amarine1]

Well Len, the decision may be made for me. I've put over 1,500 miles on the car since I first picked it up last year....... and on my way home last nite, my rear end sounded like it was vibrating at 60 mph. I put it into neutral, and the sound and vibration went away. I put it back into drive, and the vibration was back. At 50 mph, no vibration.

 

I suspect the u-joints or bearings (but it could be the gears in the rear end under "load").

 

So the car will sit until I can find a shop near me that can take a look at it.

 

~the trials and tribulations of a 33 year old car :(

[LenRobertson]

Well Len, the decision may be made for me. I've put over 1,500 miles on the car since I first picked it up last year....... and on my way home last nite, my rear end sounded like it was vibrating at 60 mph. I put it into neutral, and the sound and vibration went away. I put it back into drive, and the vibration was back. At 50 mph, no vibration.

 

I suspect the u-joints or bearings (but it could be the gears in the rear end under "load").

 

So the car will sit until I can find a shop near me that can take a look at it.

 

~the trials and tribulations of a 33 year old car :(

 

Bummer, as we once used to say, long, long ago. Possibly nothing too serious. If it is U-joints, reaching under the SX and wiggling on the driveline may tell you something. Probably enough play in the rear end that you can rotate the driveline a little bit, but if you can move the shaft up and down or side to side, that is probably U-joints. If you read back posts in the Drivetrain section here on Ratsun, you will find info on various vibrations. Usually a bad U-joint makes a clang noise when you put it in to gear and the driveline first has pressure on it, but this may not always happen.

 

Another possibility would be one of the rear wheel bearings, just inboard of the rear brakes. I would think if one of these got bad enough to vibrate, there would be noise too, but again, maybe not. Changing a rear wheel bearing is a little bit involved. At least I wouldn't trust the corner gas station shop to do it right. Unless it is run by some old guy who grew up changing rear bearings on Chevys.

 

It wouldn't take much time to jack up the rear of the car so both rear wheels are off the ground (good blocking or jack stands, of course), and run the car in gear at various speeds. Maybe something will be obviously wrong. Keep us posted on what you find out.

 

Len

[LenRobertson]

I found a page with a list of different rear end ratios for Datsun H165B rear end, which is supposed to include the S10 200SX. I have no idea if it possible to find the gear sets, but thought you might find it interesting to see what was available.

 

http://www.justanswer.com/classic-cars/3c62w-1979-datsun-200sx-possible-change-rear.html

 

Len

[amarine1]

A purty '78 200sx for sale in AZ. Ayeeeeee......... carumba......

 

http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/2461011860.html

 

 

DATSUN 200 SX AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 2.0 ENGINE 4 CILYNDERS NO ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS,NEW BRAKES,NEW MASTER CILYNDER,NEW TIRES,NEW WATER PUMP,UPHOLSTERY REDONE,FRESH PAINT JOB RECENTLY TUNE-UP ,VERY RARE CAR,I'M SELLING IT BECAUSE I NEED TO BUY A FAMILY CAR,ASKING 4100 O.B.O. QUESTIONS @ 207 3563

[amarine1]

It was posted on 6/30 so I figure the link will not work soon (hence, my adding the ad info onto the post).

 

The 200sx looks phonomenal..........

[LenRobertson]

It was posted on 6/30 so I figure the link will not work soon (hence, my adding the ad info onto the post).

 

The 200sx looks phonomenal..........

 

I happened to stumble onto that CL ad a couple of days ago. Yeah, WOW. I wonder if it is a nice in real life as it looks in the pics? I'd also like to see it beside the pale yellow car I posted pics of that ended up selling on eBay for $3200 or something near that.

 

It sure is too bad there isn't an easy replacement for the bumpers on these. Of course any old style chrome bumpers that would look good would be hard to find in decent condition.

 

Len

[ggzilla]

those bumpers are totally sick. looks like a life-size Hot Wheels car

[amarine1]

We all have those bumpers.

 

I wish I could get ahold of the Silvia parts to streamline the front and rear end of mine.........

[fishhead]

ANY INFO ON 1977 - 1979 200SX'S FOR SALE VERY MUCH APPRECIATED.

 

Still interested in info of 77-79 200sx's for sale.

 

Thanks Guys.

[LenRobertson]

Dan - I'm sorry I haven't replied to the email you sent. Summer is busy time. I really, really hope you can find a better SX than mine. I'll try to send you a list of all the problems mine has. In summary, a certain amount of body work, including some rust repair, and pretty much everything in the interior needs to be redone. I'd feel bad selling it to you, because of the shipping cost you will need to pay. I was going to suggest you put a Wanted post here on Ratsun, and you came up with the same idea. Maybe someone will know of a backyard SX and let you know.

 

Did the WY SX deal fall through, or is it in poor condition? If you did get it, it might be worth post pics, so we can see what parts you might need.

 

Len

[amarine1]

I'd sell mine for $3,000.00. I just replaced the starter with a rebuilt (and keep a spare in the trunk just in case since rebuilts for old Datsuns seem to go south at the weirdest of times), I had an oil change (and had the rear differential fluid replaced which cleared up the slight vibration at 60 mph). The miles is 123 K.

 

I am finding out that my son claimed interest in car shows, but instead cannot find the time to actually go with me to them (and having our Class A RV takes up weekends already). Since I am crazy busy at work, I have no time to drive it like I want to (except on the weekends).

 

The car needs:

 

• Lower rockers cut and metal shaped to fill (the only rust on the car mind you).
• Front fenders lower dog legs metal replaced (in conjunction with the rockers.
• Ceiling vinyl reglued to headliner (it is slightly loose).
• Strong rubbing compound and wax job (paint is still decent, it needs to shine).
• Slight rips in front seats, just needs an ulpholstry shop to repair (take both seats out, drop 'em off, spend $200, and they'll come back smokin')

The car other wise has the following positives:

 

 

1. It is a VERY clean 200sx. The dash and interior is in great shape. Everything WORKS. The car is STRAIGHT.

2. Drivetrain is solid Engine purrs like a kitten and maintains correct idle (carb is GREAT). Tranny shifts great. Car drives straight and at speed. Engine temp / cooling system stays at norm (no overheating).

3. Solid newer Firestone tires.

4. Solid Brakes all around.

5. Solid Exhaust (quiet).

6. Solid Struts and NEW Shocks in rear.

7. All fluids changed regularly (extensive work receipt history comes with the car).

8. Bumpers are unmolested.

9. All lights work.

10. Original AM-FM Stereo (with 2 rear original clarions and one front dash speaker that work great, no clatter).

11. It comes from Alaska (via South Dakota and then Minnesota). I am the second owner.

12. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it to California.

 

I am putting it out there as better running than the yellow one in Tucson (which has redone seats and perfect rockers, but mine is in better running condition and it is easier to get the few quirks resolve on mine than fixing the bumpers and misc. ideosyncrasies with the Tucson one).

 

Willing to trade for a Datsun King Cab truck in great shape (or better yet, a Toyota Dolphin RV in good shape).

 

Just putting it out there to see if any interest.

 

 

 

 

 

[amarine1]

The crickets, they be chirpin' :(

[fishhead]

The crickets, they be chirpin' :(

 

 

Did you sell the 200sx yet ? I was lookin at an old post on another forum you had a lot of pics and it looks like its in nice shape, especially the interior.

 

Was it an automatic? and u put a 5speed in it?

 

I have a 78 with lots of floor board rot too and i was wondering if thats why your selling yours?

 

Its not cheap to fix that but i cant seem to find one thats not rusted somehwere!

[Z-train]

http://tucson.craigslist.org/cto/2554071599.html

[tdaaj]

I actually have one I'm trying to get rid of, just a parts car though.

[amarine1]

http://chicago.craig...2558223132.html

 

It is a 3 spd automatic, not a 5 speed. As for "rot", its just the rockers (minor), not the floor boards (and being a larger guy, I can assure you that the seats are sitting on solid floorboards). Otherwise, it drives better than the one I had between 1983 and 1988. it literally starts up at the turn of a key (without touching the gas pedal).

 

I wouldn't hesitate driving it cross country. I'm selling mine because it is an extra 4th vehicle and due to the economy..... I need to reduce my monthly outlays/costs (and because my son has no time to help me on weekends and to go to car shows).

 

There is no such thing as a non Rusty 200sx (unless in Portland or Seattle), and those command prices of $4K and up. I was quoted $700.00 to repair the metal (I'd do the paint after the repair) The even harder part is getting a 200sx that is not rusty, doesn't have dry rot in the interior affecting wiring / plastic / dash, AND runs great. Mine has minor rocker rot, otherwise, is in fantastic shape regarding running condition and interior condition.

 

 

 

Did you sell the 200sx yet ? I was lookin at an old post on another forum you had a lot of pics and it looks like its in nice shape, especially the interior.

 

Was it an automatic? and u put a 5speed in it?

 

I have a 78 with lots of floor board rot too and i was wondering if thats why your selling yours?

 

Its not cheap to fix that but i cant seem to find one thats not rusted somehwere!

[amarine1]

http://tucson.craigs...2554071599.html

 

Upon closer inspection of those pics, it appears to have the following:

 

The dash does have cracks (you can see the dash doesn't "fit" correctly also, so most likely has been affected by the Desert regarding warping).

I do like the seats re: upholstry.

It is missing a couple of chrome trim pieces (rear right light / lower side) and the rear bumper has a small "pressed in" tweak. I am noticing the paint is covering certain locations that will peel after a certain period of time (such as door latch).

I love the alloys.

Front bumper slighly higher in front right (drivers side).

Paint does look good in these pics.

 

I wonder how it runs.......

[fishhead]

I noticed that stuff also and the trunk is out of line as well.

 

I would check it out but i feel he asking a lot for an aoutomatic and its not finished.(is it me or ???)

 

Anyway, Where are you located Amarine1? illinois?

[fishhead]

I actually have one I'm trying to get rid of, just a parts car though.

 

 

You have any pics?? you can send them to me @ fishhead55@aol.com

[ZMANChicago]

if you need me to inspect this car for anyone, this is less than 1 hour from my house... my direct email is buyaz2@hotmail.com send me an email with your phone number and i'll go check it out for you....

http://chicago.craig...2558223132.html

 

It is a 3 spd automatic, not a 5 speed. As for "rot", its just the rockers (minor), not the floor boards (and being a larger guy, I can assure you that the seats are sitting on solid floorboards). Otherwise, it drives better than the one I had between 1983 and 1988. it literally starts up at the turn of a key (without touching the gas pedal).

 

I wouldn't hesitate driving it cross country. I'm selling mine because it is an extra 4th vehicle and due to the economy..... I need to reduce my monthly outlays/costs (and because my son has no time to help me on weekends and to go to car shows).

 

There is no such thing as a non Rusty 200sx (unless in Portland or Seattle), and those command prices of $4K and up. I was quoted $700.00 to repair the metal (I'd do the paint after the repair) The even harder part is getting a 200sx that is not rusty, doesn't have dry rot in the interior affecting wiring / plastic / dash, AND runs great. Mine has minor rocker rot, otherwise, is in fantastic shape regarding running condition and interior condition.