Braden Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 ok before i begin i want all of you to know that i already know how god damn stupid this was, you dont have to remind me, you dont have to make fun of me and i will already go and call myself a dumb ignorant fuck. now that thats out of the way heres whats up. i tore down my l20b today to get it ready for hot tanking and decking tomorrow i got it almost apart and i went to remove the freeze plug on the front of the block behind the timing chain, i didnt have any trouble on the other freeze plugs but because the #1 cylinder was so close i couldnt get any vice grips on the plug to pull it out, so i decided to use a slide hammer. using the slide hammer required me to use a drill and drill a hole in the plug to get the screw in. well long story short the freeze plug was backed up against the cylinder wall and i didnt feel when i drilled through and began drilling into the cylinder wall, well it didnt look to deep at first and it wasnt all the way through so i contined to take out the crank and the pistons, now upon inspecting the bore you can barely feel where the metal is pushed in towards the inside of the cylinder where i was drilling, it did not go all the way through but i am sure it is very thin there, now i have an l20b that didnt need any boring or cylinder work and just needed cleaned and reassembled. HERE IS MY QUESTION what are my options? here are a few i thought about 1 getting new block 2 welding up hole and remachining number one bore to spec 3 sleeving number one bore 4 sleeving all bores 5 welding up hole and overboring every cylinder 6 sleeving all bores with oversized sleeves 7 weld it up, hone it out a bit to knock the high spot down and say FUCK IT 8 definitely never ever do this again well boys i need the best advice you can give me, im on a budget so i need to keep the machine work to a minimum, i have standard size pistons with new rings so if i could keep the bore standard it would save me money on buying pistons. and once again i know im a retard. Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted June 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 more like epuke Quote Link to comment
SublimeDatsun610 Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Drill Bit Braden!!! lol sorry. see if a machine shop will weld it up and hone it. if it measures out you will be damn lucky. cast iron can be welded with ni-rod. worst case bore all 4. its not the end of the world. for sure chock this one up. good luck Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 JB. Fill file it and forget it. Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted June 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 JB. Fill file it and forget it. if the rings catch the bump in the cylinder the will break, if the dont catch the bump they will wear it off and presto ive got a big steam engine, im gonna take it to the machine shop tomorrow and see if they can either sleeve it or weld it and re bore it. more money than i wanted to spend but hey what the hell Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Why overbore? Weld and file down any lump. Smooth it and good to go. Quote Link to comment
izzo Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 yeah, file it down, use emery cloth a lil bit too. I used it on a z24 block and saved it from the scrapper :D Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 You guys are dirty :lol: X2 on the machine shop or find another block. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 2eDeYe' date='16 June 2010 - 09:09 PM' timestamp='1276747798' post='315503']....or find another block. What about ratsun ingenuity? chewing gum and bailing wire. Quote Link to comment
elmerfudpucker Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Drill Bit Braden!!! Thats gonna stick! :lol: Quote Link to comment
HRH Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Wow, that does suck. Haven't done that before, but I'm sure I've done things just as stupid. Weld it, bore it to match the other holes so you can still use STD pistons. Quote Link to comment
mr68gts Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Consider it a new location for that piston return spring you always wanted to install! :lol: Best bet is to sleeve it. weld it may warp the deck if it's close enough. At the very least the heat may warp the cylinder causing the piston to stick. If you can feel the bump it's thin. No easy way around it. When I was building engines, sleeves ran around 60 bucks a hole i think. (bore bigger, buy sleeve and installation of sleeve in that price along with resizing the sleeved hole) Generally may tighten up the hole next to it a bit depending on bore spacing. Betcha wont do that one again eh? hehe Paul Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Myself? find another block if in dought or say fuck it run the block as it is whith a built head as you plan and find another block on the side. when block goes put you built head on that and install in truck. when pullong out freezeplugs sometimes best to tap it on the side so it spins in the hole then get pliers/vicegrips to pull out Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 What about ratsun ingenuity? chewing gum and bailing wire. To get ya home, hell ya. Once there though, more permanent fixes are in order. :D Quote Link to comment
Braden Posted June 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 160 to sleeve block and machine it to match other 3 bores, 40 for decking, so 200 dollar fuck up, learning a good lesson is priceless!! oh well live and learn i guess. dropped block off 30 min ago, hopefully they dont fuck it up. cornett racing engines somerset ky Quote Link to comment
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