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gas gauge


Skib

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Try grounding the wire going to the sending unit. The sending unit acts as a variable resistor, and based upon the resistance provided, it gives you a different reading on the gauge. If you ground the wire from the gauge, then it should sweep to "FULL". If you get no movement in the gauge when you ground it, then something's going on with the gauge. If it moves, then you know to start investigating in the wiring to/or the sending unit.

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Skib if the temp is working then it's not the voltage regulator in the dash cluster. Grounding the yellow wire at the tank sender should cause a FULL reading on the gauge if it is working correctly. Because there is a single wire to the tank the tank must be well grounded for a good return.

 

If all the above passes then it must be the internal sender. The sender wires are hair thin.

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Skib if the temp is working then it's not the voltage regulator in the dash cluster. Grounding the yellow wire at the tank sender should cause a FULL reading on the gauge if it is working correctly. Because there is a single wire to the tank the tank must be well grounded for a good return.

 

If all the above passes then it must be the internal sender. The sender wires are hair thin.

 

my goon dose the same thing, i have an after market gage when i hook up the yellow wired to the gage it marks full, then when i hook up the black wire from the sending unit to gage it goes all the way passing the empty reading. would that be that my gage is no good. :huh:

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Datzenmike has a good point, and I've used it to test many gauges. Works the same for the temp gauge. Ground the gas tank sending unit to the chassis, and the gauge should read full. If it doesn't, the gauge/wiring is bad. If it does read full, the sender is bad. Easy way to eliminate problems.

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Datzenmike has a good point, and I've used it to test many gauges. Works the same for the temp gauge. Ground the gas tank sending unit to the chassis, and the gauge should read full. If it doesn't, the gauge/wiring is bad. If it does read full, the sender is bad. Easy way to eliminate problems.

 

 

yep that's what it dose, i have one of those kragen gages.

DSCF2730.jpg

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Skib if the temp is working then it's not the voltage regulator in the dash cluster. Grounding the yellow wire at the tank sender should cause a FULL reading on the gauge if it is working correctly. Because there is a single wire to the tank the tank must be well grounded for a good return.

 

If all the above passes then it must be the internal sender. The sender wires are hair thin.

 

 

I dont have a temp gauge :P Iv always had an after market one.

 

its just a blank black plate now. it comes up to 1/2 tank from time to time when I fill it up. but it dosent always do it and it dosent always stay.

 

 

I got a new flasher for the blinkers and they still dont work :rolleyes:

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:huh: you think im lying?

 

no okay. ill try that. on the other hand i was comparing sending units. and it seems and looks very similar as a old vw bug one. i got try one to see if it works.lol

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my wagons gas gauge only works up to the 3/4 full mark, when it shows i am on E i still have well over a quarter of a tank. My factory temp gauge barely works as well, I figure its the voltage regulator, i just never bothered to check it cause I didn't figure I could find one for it. I haven't come across one yet...can you even get a new voltage regulator for a 72 510 wagon?

 

but yeah, try grounding it out and watch the needle. if the needle goes up in the dash, check the sending unit. Do you own a ohm meter? if so, hook it up to the leads and watch what the ohm meter does when you move the float for the sending unit.

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