SHADY280 Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 id be interested in the ka setup as well. it may bode better to the boost im gonna run in my poor little motor. ill need the dizzy, shaft, ecu and harness. if you got them all laying around, ill be more than happy to put them to good use. i cant find this stuff easy here, everybody just crushes poor little nissans cause they rust fast. im prolly just gonna use the injector bosses just like that one photo, and use some flat stock for the plenum. looks easy enough, well kinda. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/CopyofIMG_0376.jpg[/img]"] Sorry Jason if I was not clear.. I'm not sure which spindle is which... only that the far right one is the KA. I'd have to get the dizzies and timing covers out and start measuring them.:D 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted December 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 Hmm. Well I still think there's a possibility that the L20b one might work if you change out the splined sleeve. I don't understand how they could make the KA24 spindle that much shorter, because the deck height is the same as the Z24, which is taller than the L20b! 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 8, 2007 Report Share Posted December 8, 2007 These are all L/Z/KA spindles, so I guess the timing covers are different or the dizzies reach down inside further, or both. 1 Quote Link to comment
Pedro Posted December 9, 2007 Report Share Posted December 9, 2007 A couple of guys in new zealand adapted a ca18de ecu and coilpacks to a Z18 without to much trouble. Here are a few pics, might be an option; 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted December 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2007 Interesting fly510... While CA stuff would be hard to get here in my area, maybe someone else could fool around with it if they got daring. Good news, my TIG welder was picked up today to go be repaired. I also have another theory... I think it may be possible for the KA24e distributor to work on an L series engine with very little modification... Keep in mind, it's just a theory, because I dont have a KA distributor to play with... Compare these pictures... KAe L series It looks like it could possubly bolt right onto the L series distributor pedestal! I bet if you swap out the splined sleeve on the end, with the straight one, and maybe grind off the stop on the L distributor pedestal it would bolt right on, and work... Man all this stuff sure sounds good in my mind. 1 Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted December 13, 2007 Report Share Posted December 13, 2007 CA18's came in several nissan USA vehicles so, parts would not be hard to get. I do believe KA dizzy's can be made to work as well, I think the guts could interchange with a little work. I have several KA dizzys if you want me to measure them or something. peace. 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted December 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 In the pursuit of being ghetto, I came up with another really ghetto idea for injection of a J series, or an E1 engine... Since there is only 2 "intake ports", I wonder if someone could rig up the injection off a newer harley, or similar bike since most of them use 2 injectors... Some of the newer harleys are close to the size of the J13 engine, I bet that it would run pretty good if you could get it to work! If I ever end up with a 520/521 (hopefully in the not so distant future), I think I'll try it, as my Dad ripped all the stock injection out of his 07 Street bob... HMMM.... :) 1 Quote Link to comment
INDY510 Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 I want to get some gsxr 1000 carbs for my L16, it would be easier than fuel injection. Some honda has gsxr ITBs and the ECU off a gsxr,,, I would rather go with the carbs:D 1 Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted December 19, 2007 Report Share Posted December 19, 2007 In the pursuit of being ghetto, I came up with another really ghetto idea for injection of a J series, or an E1 engine... Since there is only 2 "intake ports", I wonder if someone could rig up the injection off a newer harley, or similar bike since most of them use 2 injectors... Some of the newer harleys are close to the size of the J13 engine, I bet that it would run pretty good if you could get it to work! If I ever end up with a 520/521 (hopefully in the not so distant future), I think I'll try it, as my Dad ripped all the stock injection out of his 07 Street bob... HMMM.... :) in that case why dont you just rob a tbi setup from an 80's ford, it has two injectors. It doesnt really matter what you go with really because most of it is all batch fire anyway. peace. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 20, 2007 Report Share Posted December 20, 2007 Wasn't spiffenspudatter going to run some motorcycle carbs? 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 Made some interesting finds today working on Project: Ghetto EFI. My KA24e distributor I bought off ebay came in today. It's funny I re-read my post about the spindles, and I wonder why I didn't just think to use the L28et spindle, instead of taking stuff apart, and trying to use the stock L20b spindle. The L28et spindle is the same length as the L20b one, and it uses the splined end, same as the KA. I bet the KA one is the same length also, so you might even be able to just use that one if you wanted... Here is a shot of an L20b timing cover, with the L28et drive spindle, and the KA distributor inserted... As you can see, the KA distributor base won't go into the L distributor pedestal, however It is fully engaged with the L28et distributor drive spindle. The holes don't quite line up either, but they are close... I thought to myself I could just bore out the pedestal, but the distributor shaft is too long, and would just bottom out on the timing cover. I thought about attempting to take the guts of the distributor out, and put them in an L distributor body, but it sounded like more work than it would be worth. So, for the sake of bolt-on-ability, I'm going to make a spacer plate the that will go between the KA distributor and the L pedestal. It will bolt to the L pedestal from the bottom, and the distributor will bolt on from the top... That way all you'd have to do is just change the spindle, and it's pretty much bolt on deal... 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 1, 2008 Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 What about a using the spindle from the L24 (L6) maxima? It had efi... Isn't the L24 a shorter block? 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 The drive spindle doesn't seem to be the problem. It's that the distributor shaft itself is too long, and I don't want to but it, or try to retro fit it with something else, or transplant the guts into something else. I have a theory that all L series distributor drive spindles are the same length. The only thing that changed with the taller block was that they added more material at the top of the timing cover, the distributor placement and shaft length stayed the same. L16/L18/L20a/L24/L26/L28(et) all had the same block height L20b/LD28 is taller. I think any L series drive spindle would work with this distributor, but if you are using one without the splined end, you would have to take off the splined sleeve on the end of the distributor shaft, and put on a straight one like from the older L series distributors. But since the L28et drive spindle is splined, I'm just using it to simplify everything. It's the right length, I just need to make the spacer so the distributor has something to bolt to. 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 I need more pics I'm still kind of confused :D 1 Quote Link to comment
ggzilla Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 The way I understand it, the injection of fuel is *not* timed in any way to the piston or spark. Instead, the injectors are constantly spraying, and the ECU simply varies the amount by the "duty cycle" (length of electrical pulse frequency/shape). Newer port-injection systems are usually timed, but not our old 1970s Nissan EGI. I had half the parts for the A14E engine ... but couldn't find the rest reasonably so I sold my kit. It looked just like 3/4 of an L28 manifold. Note that the distributor blackbox is same for 4 cyl and 6 cyl ... so why couldn't the Injection system work for either? 1 Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 KA24e is not batch fire, it is sequential; at least thats what it sounds like when I turn my dizzy with the key ON and the coil unplugged. peace. 1 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 http://www.megasquirt.info/MS%20FAQ.htm#sequential A little MS never hurts :D I doubt that the KA is batch due to the shittyness at idle.... But there is a wire for each injector..... Tiltnose would know :D 1 Quote Link to comment
tiltnose510 Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 KA is sequential. 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted January 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2008 Well I have the distributor spacer/adapter laid out, drilled, and tapped. I just need to take it to work tomorrow, and cut it out with some tools. As you can see, I have some room to make hole changes if I'm off on the line up for the timing, but I think it will be fairly close. The L distributor pedestal (mount) will bolt to the timing cover, like normal, and then bolt to this adapter from the bottom, then the KA distributor will mount to the adapter from the top, eliminating the problem for the distributor being too long for the timing cover. Well, first the welder repair place said that some coil power lead inside the transformer of my welder had pretty much burnt off somehow, and it would be cheaper for me to buy a new TIG welder than to have my old turd wagon fixed... I told them to bring it back, and I'd most likely try to band-aid it back together. A couple days later, the guy came back to the shop and said that they actually could fix it, and it will only be $200 bucks or so... Huh. Well, I guess it's better to have a professional do it than me... So the manifold work might be a couple weeks out. 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted January 4, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2008 Ok guys! Here it is! A KA24e distributor bolted to an L seried timing cover. Off the top of my head, I can think of at least 2 ways this could have been done cleaner, but both would have required to use of a welder, and mine is in the shop. Overall I'd say it came out pretty decent, and I don't think it looks terribly bad at all... I'll probably paint it black, so it won't be as noticable... Neither grinding the distributor to fit the L distributor mount, or boring out the mount to fit the distributor to work would have worked because the shaft of the distributor is too long, and it would have bottomed out on the timing cover. So at least untill my welder comes back, construction of Project: Ghetto EFI will be on hold. Currently I'm still collecting parts, I need a KA24e MAF sensor, temp sensor, and o2 sensor. I'll probably get the sensors from NAPA or something, but the MAF would be too expensive there... As far as a fuel tank, I was comparing the tank from a 96 hardbody, to the stock 620 one, and they look almost the same shape... I wonder if it wouldn't be hard to mount the hardbody tank in a 620? That way you already have the in tank fuel pump and stuff... Or I could just be ghetto and run an old Z car pump or somthing. http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a159/RacnJsn95/GhettoEFI/12_14_07027.jpg http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a159/RacnJsn95/GhettoEFI/12_14_07018.jpg ^Here are a couple pictures that show the whole setup a little better^ 1 Quote Link to comment
Fineline Posted January 4, 2008 Report Share Posted January 4, 2008 Looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment
nismopu Posted January 5, 2008 Report Share Posted January 5, 2008 Do you need the whole housings or just the sensor because I have like two spare sensors but no housings. peace. 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted January 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2008 I didn't know the sensors actually came out of the housing. If I knew what they looked like, I might be able to make a ghetto housing out of some big aluminum tubing, or so really ghetto pvc pipe. I picked up another distributor for $10, so I'll be trying to rip the guts out of it and put them in an L series distributor body to see if I can do away with the adapter. Does anyone have an old points distributors or non match box distributor they would like to donate/sell cheaply for my research? I just have a couple matchbox Z car distributors, and I'd like to keep them intact. 1 Quote Link to comment
RacnJsn95 Posted September 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2008 Icehouse inspired me to fire get working on this again, and I'm sure the beer helped also. Drilled/tapped the "efi manifold holes" in a crappy old U67 head I had so I can use it for a jig now for pretty much whatever I want. I went with the theory that if you sliced halfway into the runners on the top side of two, and the bottom side of the other two, that you could potentially pull the plenum gap closed without breaking the runners.... Sliced, and clamped, before welding Worked out good... I accidently cut too much off the plenum at work, so I TIG welded up everything I felt comfortable doing (most of the runners)... I'll take it to work tomorrow and weld up the rest. Overall, it lined up pretty well! With the exception of the EGR passage :( Wish I had a non-webbed non-egr manifold to do this on... It almost seems like a big waste of time on this manifold :( It's a little uglier, but just think of it as extra ratsuny... Shot of inside the plenum... Lines up pretty good for what it is Quote Link to comment
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