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Project: Ghetto EFI!


RacnJsn95

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Took the manifold and stuff to work today and welded most of it up... The only thing left to weld is the egr passage way. I'm going to try and see if I can shoot some wire through the gap and try to seal the plenum off from it...

 

adptv001.jpg

 

adptv002.jpg

 

I had another theory today, and I can't see why it wouldn't work... I robbed the wiring harness, and ecu from an 84 200sx with a CA20e... I can't see why adapting that wouldn't work for ghetto efi? Same size engine, so the ammount of fuel can't be that far off... Obviously I wont be able to use the KA24 distribtor with it, but think it might be possible to use a stock matchbox distributor... I'll have to do some research on the E12-84 (I think that was the number) module, and see what it's beef is.

 

I think we can all agree, it looks pretty ghetto with that webbing... I plan to clean it up a little later :P

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Jason, I have an '85 CA18ET wire harness and ECU. Pretty sure it's like the Z20E batch fire. Just needs + and - , throttle position, feed from the EI so it can figure out the RPMs, water temp (or depending on year) head temp sensor, air temp sensor and air flow meter. The Z20E USA models had an O2 sensor.

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Jason,

 

I sure hope to see that manifold on a running engine. I wasn't sure what to think when you started this thread a year or whatever ago. I'm excited to see it run! I'm pretty good with EFI stuff, so feel free to ask... If I can help, I surely will!!

 

slo

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Took the manifold and stuff to work today and welded most of it up... The only thing left to weld is the egr passage way. I'm going to try and see if I can shoot some wire through the gap and try to seal the plenum off from it...

 

adptv001.jpg

 

adptv002.jpg

 

I had another theory today, and I can't see why it wouldn't work... I robbed the wiring harness, and ecu from an 84 200sx with a CA20e... I can't see why adapting that wouldn't work for ghetto efi? Same size engine, so the ammount of fuel can't be that far off... Obviously I wont be able to use the KA24 distribtor with it, but think it might be possible to use a stock matchbox distributor... I'll have to do some research on the E12-84 (I think that was the number) module, and see what it's beef is.

 

I think we can all agree, it looks pretty ghetto with that webbing... I plan to clean it up a little later :P

 

 

Nice welding. Hope that harness and ECU works. :D

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Was able to go to work today and finish welding the manifold up, and then I bead blasted it... Looks slightly more respectable now :lol: (although still super ghetto)...

 

ghettointake5.jpg

 

ghettointake4.jpg

You can see how far off the EGR passageway was from lining up, I had to put a little filler plate in there to weld it shut. I'll clean up the webbing a little bit next week.

 

What's next? Well I'll keep collecting parts... I need an AFM, a head temp sensor (where am I gonna put that?), fuel pump, Intake air temp sensor, o2 sensor... Am I forgetting anything else? I'll probably start bastardizing a 280z fuel rail in the next week or so also :P

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a head temp sensor (where am I gonna put that?),

 

When I did my temp sensor I put it in a ZX thermostat housing. I went to the yard and found different versions. One had 3 holes for sensors, one had 4 holes for sensors, and one had 5 holes for sensors. Easiest solution and closest to a stock setup.

 

 

Almost all the way down has a pic of the 5 port.

 

http://the510realm.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3562&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=90

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Would that just be another coolant temp sensor if its screwed in there?

 

Not sure what you are asking... You can take the temp sensor of choice and "make" it work. If I rememeber correctly my temp sensor just screwed in. Or maybe I tapped it....can't quite remember, but either way it was an easy and simple solution.

 

I actually installed 2 temp sensors. One for a early '90s GM for Megasquirt and one for my mechanical coolant temp guage.

 

And don't forget about the fuel pressure regulator. I think I have the one I orignally used before switching to the AEM adjustable. It was a 280zx one and worked great. I used it for about 800 miles before switching so it's like new. If I can find it I'll sell it to you cheap.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...

Hey Im going to bump this too. I have a intake I have started cutting up.

 

I plan on cutting the EGR tube off and filling the little holes under the set screws of the EGR tube. The way I don't have to worry about lining it up.

 

I have also been looking into the GM ECU's They are really simple and fully documented. Not quite as nice as the KA ecu's but they are easier to adapt to the L series because they can use the matchbox or El dizzy because they are VR sensor based.

 

Just get the 7 pin HEI module, remove the vacuum advance and block the mechanical advance with some JB weld or weld it up. For the Match box remove the ING module Run the RED and Green wires to the HEI +(posative) and -(negative) pins.

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm megasquirt is great for hacking together stuff based on GM parts. just wire it up like that and run the wire to a GM ecu and not the megasquit. Oh and this module will run 10 degree of advance with out the ECU hooked up so you can test it with out having the ECU running yet.

 

For the ECU use the 7730 or 7727 These are in nearly all the V6 FWD GM cars from 89 to 95. Lumina's and grand prix's. http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/ecm_info/1227730/

 

You will need to replace the memcal (prom chip carrier) with one from a Quad4 powered car. Stay away from the iron duke powered cars. These are usually in smaller FWD cars cavaliers, corsica's and such.

Then you can run code 59 www.code59.org (hacked prom code from the syclone and Grnd National)

 

Oh and you may need the resistor pack still because the GM ecu's are built to run high impedance injectors. But there are instruction on changing a few parts and the code to run peak and hold injectors with out the reistors.

 

You can follow this guys wiring diagram to wire everything up. http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/GMTPISwap.htm Just add the resistors in. Once I get my intake together I will do a write up.

 

-Avery

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  • 5 months later...

Jesse, I'm still working on it but really taking my time. I have nearly all the parts together. The truck I will be doing the conversion on has break problems right now. Once those are fixed I will get to work on Welding the intake up. I need to find someone who can weld cast aluminum well. I know a guy that has a race shop but I'm sure it will be expansive.

 

 

I may bolt in the ECU and see if I can get it to run just the ignition. Should work right out of the box.

 

 

Here is what my setup will look like

 

-7727 Ecu out of chevy lumina V6 ---> http://www.rowand.net/shop/tech/GMTPISwap.htm somewhat similar setup with v8.

-memcal from quad 4 chevy pre 95' I think.

-A prom chip adapter like this http://www.moates.net/g1-memory-adapter-tpi-etc-p-32.html?cPath=64

-A prom emulator (not needed but speeds up tuning) http://www.moates.net/ostrich-20-the-new-breed-p-169.html?cPath=64

-A ALDL (diag cable) http://www.moates.net/tunerview-rd1-aldl-link-interface-p-256.html?cPath=64

-7pin HEI module from v6 Camero pre-96 Found in nearly all EFI+Dizzy GM cars/trucks.

-El-dizzy(preferred) or match box dizzy(wiring is harder) with all advance glued up with JB-weld timing to 10degree BTDC. --->http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/GM_7pinHEI.htm

-A fuse/relay box I ripped out of a random car. You only need 3 or 4 of each. herd mid 90's GM truck ones are easy to use.

-Nissan coolant temp sensor(ecu,not gauge) + 280z/zx thermostat housing.

-GM O2 sensor, 3bar map sensor, Intake Air Temp(IAT) sensor.

-Then I downloaded the code59 4 cylinder bin from www.code59.org (requires 3bar map sensor)

-280zx turbo injectors. I think these need a resistor pack will double check.

-Cut up 280zx intake.

-Custom welded pipe as a fuel rail.

-280zx fuel pressure regulator.

-Bosch external fuel pump the 044 is expensive and over kill.

-240SX throttle body fits Z intake upside down and its cable based.

-240SX TPS comes with throttle body works with gm stuff.

 

If you want to cut costs there is a lot you can leave out. Here are the easy places to cut out some spend.

 

You can make the ALDL diag cable for less than 5 bucks. I will make a backup and test it.

http://www.scribd.com/doc/487929/GM-8192-160-Baud-ALDL-Interface

You can just cut the old prom chip out of the memcal carrier and solder in a socket.

You can program the prom chips with an old desktop computer and network card. So you don't need the emulator.

You just have to swap chips back and forth. You can buy the chips for 5 bucks from moates.

http://esm.logic.net/public/dsm/ecu-flashing.html

 

The 3 bar map sensor is probably the most expensive single part at $75-$100 after the chip programming stuff.

You can use the 1bar map sensor found on nearly all GM EFI car/trucks if you run other software.

The corvette software runs on this ECU and can be edited to 4 cylinder operation but does not allow for boost.

It also will not report RPM over some low number like 5600RPM to the ALDL cable.

The engine will run fine above that RPM though just no data logging.

 

You can use nearly any injectors as long as the fit your intake.

The Bosch 044 is a big bad ass pump I will try and find a cheaper one.

 

http://www.allelectronics.com/ has relays for pretty cheap.

 

 

If anyone wants to send me a welded up intake I could get this running pretty quick.

 

-Avery

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