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check the coil wire going from coil to dizzy. Pull it off the dizzy and check for spark, if so, then pull a plug wire off and check it. if u got spark start checking other stuff. Did you hear the other motor run before you got it in there? Check timing, check make sure oil drive for dizzy is in there, set TDC and make sure oil drive is set right etc....

 

i kno it sounds stupid but if u got spark and timing looks ok, make sure you're getting gas and the gas lines are tight with a hose clamp or something. When we got the motor back in my truck it wouldnt start, i forgot to put 1 hose clamp on the gas line :rofl:

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izzo its my old l16 so the motor has everything...and ran next to perfect....its gotta be electical....it had a el dizzy but he put a points dizzy in.....by the way hydro you can have the clip to go to it....keep us updated so we can get ya going ...i need your # again......if it ends up being a bad coil let me know i got a new in box you can have...

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Hmmm I don't know a lot, but did you leave the ballast resistor in place between the coil and the EI dist? I don't think you need one with the EI at all. And I was told to get the coil that says it is for electric ignition. Though I hear they will run for a while with the stock coil if the resistor is removed... I think?

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I thought I was bad!!!!!!!!

I cant understand anything hes saying!!!!!!!!!!

 

take center coil wire off dizzy and place near ground and start car. see if sparks. Dont need a spark tester(is there such a thing).

 

if you get spark then its a timming issue of the rotor dizzy timming plate adjustment or oil spindal.

 

If NO spark.

Theh see if the power wire is getting 12volts with key ON.

Then see if the Hot start wire is getting 12volts in start position.

 

if you have these then car will run.

near the end of this is how to install a dizzy, watch it.

http://www.guba.com/watch/3000024223/Hainz-Datsun-L-Series-Engine-01-Timing-Tare-down-and-Rebuild

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I had a very similar problem with my 510 when i switched to the el dizzy. i had no spark at the spark plug end and thought it was the dizzy, checked the coil plug like hainz said and found out that there was also no spark. Jefes de jefes came over and assured me that my wiring was all right so he checked the power at the coil and with the key in the ON position it read 12 volts but when we tried to crank the engine it would drop to zero. Told me it was the ignition switch, so i got a new one and that fixed my problem.

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Hmmm I don't know a lot, but did you leave the ballast resistor in place between the coil and the EI dist? I don't think you need one with the EI at all. And I was told to get the coil that says it is for electric ignition. Though I hear they will run for a while with the stock coil if the resistor is removed... I think?

I spoke to an MSD tech after wiring up my Blaster 3 coil and was told that even though it's not a point style, it's still a stock ignition so running a with no ballast resistor can prove fatal to some parks. Not sure if this is correct though, since my wiring diagram for the ignition shows that it has a ballast resistor pre-installed by nissan.

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The ballast resistor in a points ignition is there to protect both the coil and the points. The resistor drops the voltage down to about 6-8 so that the points don't arc and the coil doesn't over heat. The coil design is left over from the days of 6 volt setups and doesn't like a constant 12v. Because of the voltage drop the system experiences when you crank the starter, the ballast is bypassed when the key is in the start position and left in the circuit in the run position. If you put an EI dizzy in and leave the points coil, you can a new constant 12v wire to the dizzy(it needs a power wire which the points dizzy didn't), but the coil still needs the ballast. If you leave the points and put in an EI dizzy(which has it's resistance built into the coil), you still need to keep the ballast to protect the points. This isn't a very good scenario since the coil will not be getting a full 12v. Keep in mind that there are ignition setups that don't have a ballast resistor, but a resistance wire connected to the coil. This is still an external resistance to the coil, so it's not the best coil to run. If you use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance from the neg term to the tower term(where the coil wire to the dizzy goes), you should read approx 3-4 ohms. That should be an EI dizzy that does not need the external resistance. If you read about 1.5 or less, that indicates that it's a points dizzy and needs an external ballast. Anyway....that's the boring coil info for the day.

 

I typically troubleshoot the ign sys with a test light. It's by far the fastest, easiest way to do it!!

 

 

I'm also not understanding exactly what you've changed out. What is the ignbox you're talking about? The matchbox on the side of the dizzy? What do you have on the eng right now....a points dizzy, or an EI dizzy(matchbox or remote ignitor box?)

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wow this is real good info i myself did not even know there was a differnce in coils at all...

though im not the brightest color in the box.. :unsure:

hydro any update on this ....and you really need to clareafy everything these guys are here to help you ....and will.. :D

like i said if you need you can come snag the coil ans whatever you need off my dime ..it is exactly how it was when pulled....

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now iv got a matchbox on my dime and power to every thang and still no spark iv dun eveythang that has been posted can any one help me out and get her running im at my whitz end HELP

 

 

Still no spark??? You put a light tester to the positive side of the coil and make sure you have power? Pull the coil wire off the dizzy and see if theirs spark. If not, try and run a hot wire from battery to positive side of coil and see if she pushes some spark then.

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So you got 12volts at the + side coil.

I assume since you have a Matchbox , you are NOT using the ballast resisitor. You should get 12volt with Key ON.

 

I dont know the wire colors on a 68 myself but there should be a HOT START wire also. which is 12volt ONLY with key in START position. Most people short this and the 12volt ON wire(above together).

 

all you got ot do to ck out this coil is put key to ON youll have 12volts at + side of coil.

 

then take a wire hook it up to the - side of coil. Take Coil wire thats comming out of coil plce near ground.

Now take the - side coil and short it to chassis of car. this should charge the coil then when you pill the wire off the coil should FIRE/snap cause it near ground. If you have this then the coil part works and your proplem is a triggering sytem.

 

 

remember on a Matchbox B is positive C goes to minus side of Coil.

Maybe try another dizzy.(make sure you put to TDC so you know if your on #1 plug wire and counter clockwise fire order.

 

In the HOW TO section on this site it show different way to hook up different dizzys

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/17444-electronic-ignitions-for-l-motors-4-cyl/

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