AtomChurch Posted November 16, 2007 Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 I have a 78 L20b. I want to get a carburator for it, baxters doesn't even sell carb's for my car.[ i go to baxers because I can get 50% off when my friend is working] what is the webber i should buy for my car? any 32/36? what have you guys done for carbs? -Atom Quote Link to comment
bluemeanie Posted November 16, 2007 Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 First of all I need to meet this "friend" 50% kicks butt! Quote Link to comment
AtomChurch Posted November 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2007 he works there and gets stuff at 10% above cost. and they mark everything up, for the most part, 60%. its nice. since i am poor. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted November 17, 2007 Report Share Posted November 17, 2007 32/36 is pretty much the norm, good carb for all around performance. I personlly like the 38mm outlaw carbs better, but they cost more and you do lose a little bit of mileage with them, but the hp you gain with the 38 is a huge amout out of a carb swap. I would sugggest you get a jet kit, or seach around for the right jets so you can dial it in. no weber comes perfect out of the box. Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted November 17, 2007 Report Share Posted November 17, 2007 Baxter's should not have any trouble getting a Weber for you. Thought that they stocked them in the portland warehouse. Anyways, there is a guy that works at the tigard baxters that is super good with webers, older guy, very helpful, races old toyota's, but i cant remember his name. Might try picking his brain? Jason Quote Link to comment
OL YELLER Posted November 17, 2007 Report Share Posted November 17, 2007 Baxter's should not have any trouble getting a Weber for you. Thought that they stocked them in the portland warehouse. Anyways, there is a guy that works at the tigard baxters that is super good with webers, older guy, very helpful, races old toyota's, but i cant remember his name. Might try picking his brain? Jason sounds good...but....we gotta pick your brain first for that name...LOL I mean just walk in and look for the "older guy"?....how much older?...hey just messin with ya.....:D Quote Link to comment
yello620 Posted November 17, 2007 Report Share Posted November 17, 2007 sounds good...but....we gotta pick your brain first for that name...LOLI mean just walk in and look for the "older guy"?....how much older?...hey just messin with ya.....:D Ya, I knew that someone would at least get a chuckle out of that. Does leave a lot of question about the age, Huh? But, if you have ever been to Baxter's you will see that most of the employees are about 25-26 or younger. Jason Quote Link to comment
71-521 Posted November 17, 2007 Report Share Posted November 17, 2007 Manual choke Weber I'm running right now is the DGV-32/36 5a anyone got the part numbers for either the electric choke version or the water choked unit? do you have specs for that 38? Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 71 521 32/36 DGEV is eleltric 32/36DGEV-IC has the cutoff selinoid 32/36DGAV is the water heated choke 38DGES is the 38mm double opener(same time) electric webercarbsdirect.com Quote Link to comment
makya Posted November 19, 2007 Report Share Posted November 19, 2007 what's the difference between a 34 and a 32/36? I looked on the addy that hainz posted & saw that the 38 is listed for the z24, will that still bolt up to the L20 intake or does it require a different adapter? sorry for the hijack, but I want to keep the Questions in one place. Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 None of them bolt up to the L20B manifold. They all have the same pattern that requires an adapter (so long as we are talking a 34DGAV, a 32/36 DG(A,E)V, or a 38DGAS. A 34DFT is an obsolete carb that actually fits the L-series manifold, but has to be installed backwards to make the throttle work. Also, note that most 32/36 are marked 32/36DGAV on the carb body even if they have an electric choke. They all have a common body, so whatever choke assembly was requested was what got put on (Electric is more common). Quote Link to comment
makya Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 Cool, lots of info guys. Since I've kind of hijacked Atom's thread, I'm going to ask more: were the sidedraft mikuni's any good? I still hear them mentioned once in a while, I imagine they were hard to tune since they were duals? Quote Link to comment
pope_face Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 I don't have any experiance with dual carbs, but I assume any setup like that is going to be harder to tune than a single carb... as for the Mikuni's vs the Webers, I suppose it's more up to personal preferance. Some people seem to like the Mikuni's, some like the Webers. I'm not sure if the SU's are the Mikuni's, so you might want to check into that. But, if you don't have much preferance towards one carb or another, get the Webers... you can find them new pretty easily, there's a bunch of used ones floating around, and it'll be easier to get jets (and possibly rebuild kits) for the Webers... But the more important question you need to ask yourself is, do you need dual carbs? What are you trying to achieve? Do you need carbs, or would FI work? If you need carbs, are you going to be doing enough head work to warrent the extra cost of dual carbs, or are you just replacing a worn-out stock carb? You could just go with a larger single carb rather than dual carbs... Remember, dual carbs require a new intake manifold, modifications to the choke and throttle linkage, and you have to buy twice the carbs... I've seen a single Weber sell for $400-$500 new up here... a lot of money to drop if you don't really need it. Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 I ... as for the Mikuni's vs the Webers, I suppose it's more up to personal preferance. Some people seem to like the Mikuni's, some like the Webers. I'm not sure if the SU's are the Mikuni's, so you might want to check into that. SU's are NOT anything but SU's mikunis = easier to tune weber = easier to get parts each has their unique benefits over the other. i have both but havent played with the mikunis yet...:mellow: Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 I picked up my dual 40mm webers with manifold and linkage for $400... just an FYI that they are out there for decent prices. Just gotta shop like a Datto owner ;) Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 2eDeYe;28781''] ...with manifold and linkage for $400. thats what i paid (ebay) for the 40 mikunis, just rebuilt too. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 None of them bolt up to the L20B manifold. They all have the same pattern that requires an adapter (so long as we are talking a 34DGAV, a 32/36 DG(A,E)V, or a 38DGAS. A 34DFT is an obsolete carb that actually fits the L-series manifold, but has to be installed backwards to make the throttle work. Also, note that most 32/36 are marked 32/36DGAV on the carb body even if they have an electric choke. They all have a common body, so whatever choke assembly was requested was what got put on (Electric is more common). Will a 32/36 fit the Z24 manifold without an adapter? The L20B and the Z22 are smaller and will swap but the Z24 has a larger bolt pattern, will the Weber fit it? Quote Link to comment
datsunaholic Posted November 20, 2007 Report Share Posted November 20, 2007 Larger? Oh, wait, I have an '83 Z24. It's the oddball of the bunch- not a feedback carb. I'll have to look at my Z24 manifolds that DID come off feedback carbbed vehicles. I thought they were the same size, but I never checked. I know the TBI on the Z24i has a different pattern, as one stud is offset. Quote Link to comment
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